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天赐大宅:从霞飞路445号到淮海中路1209号

本地老洋房 外滩以西 2022-01-15


三个红圈,三个故事。Adeodata Hall=天赐大宅,来自拉丁文。



俄罗斯汉学家张霞写:Adeodata Hall photographed some time before 1917。目前我们看到爱滋拉“天赐大宅”照片来自如上画册:《Present Day Impressions of the Far East and prominent and progressive Chinese at home and abroad. -The History, people, commerce, industries and resources of China, Hongkong, Indo-China, Malaya andNetherland India.》(远东新印象与国内外进步和突出的中国人-中国,香港,越南,马来亚和印度尼西亚的历史,人民,商业,工业和资源,1917年出版)。



1925年,天赐大宅的地址为霞飞路455号,隔壁的443号为傅筱庵宅,此宅也还在的,算进淮海中路1209号大院内,院门口那栋红砖墙大开间房子。链接点进去看看:《傅筱庵旧居还在淮海中路沿街》。1939年小红本显示,天赐大宅的门牌号码为霞飞路1209号。



Edward Ezra's residence was built in 1912, before the magnate turned thirty. The name of the estate – Adeodata Hall – meant "god-given" in Latin. 


感叹,爱滋拉英年早逝,王均瑶还有人记得吗?38岁去世的,爱滋拉也在38岁走掉的(1883-1921年)。维基百科的感叹:


Edward Isaac Ezra was a wealthy Jewish businessman, who was the first member of the Shanghai Municipal Council who was actually born in China, and who was at one time "one of the wealthiest foreigners in Shanghai". According to one report, Ezra amassed a vast fortune estimated at from twenty to thirty million dollars primarily through the importation of opium, and successful real estate investment and management in early twentieth century Shanghai. Ezra was the largest stockholder and the managing director of Shanghai Hotels Ltd., and its major financier, and controlled such hotels as the Astor House Hotel in Shanghai.

有句话,人在天堂,钱在银行。二十世纪初,爱滋拉通过鸦片贸易和房地产开发,获得2000万至3000万美元的财富。这里也插一句,维基的信息不很准,第一个出生在上海并担任工部局公董的不是爱滋拉,在我们公号背后一直默默支持帮助的老法师“Georges-覺凈”考证,这个“第一”应该是亨利·盖西克(Henry Keswick )。


爱滋拉坐在大班台后,是刚建成的江西路新康大楼吗?看上去是不是很器宇轩昂?其实此时的爱滋拉一直处于超负荷的工作状态,亚健康。下图看到爱滋拉大腹便便,美国总领事将租地支票交给他,请注意时间点,1916年,此照片刊登在英文版的《大陆报》(The China Press),而《大陆报》产权曾归属爱滋拉。


Ezra was the managing director of Shanghai Hotels Limited from 1907, chairman of the Far Eastern Insurance Company, chairman of the Shanghai Gas Company, chairman of the China Motors Ltd. Additionally, he held large proprietary interests in, and was president and chairman of, the China Press and the Evening Star newspapers.怎么看李嘉诚是学爱滋拉的呢?投资社会公用基础建设项目,水电煤关乎所有人。还有酒店业,爱滋拉旗下有 Astor House Hotel (后来的浦江饭店)。




张霞说,爱滋拉三十岁之前建造了“天赐大宅”。通过张霞的转述,我们知道了这个大宅占地25英亩,没看错吧,1000亩地,绝对超级大地主。天赐大宅落成以后,内部辟有可供150人跳舞的舞厅,80个座位的音乐室,全屋路易十五风格的家具。


The palatial mansion "had Louis XV furniture throughout, a ballroom for 150 dancers, a music room to seat an audience of 80 in comfort, and elegantly designed French windows giving out on to 25 acres of garden" 【Austin Coates, China Races (1983)】。



张霞接着写道:In the garden, Mrs. Ezra grew orchids, begonias, poinsettias and sweet peas.花园里种着兰花、秋海棠、一品红和甜豌豆,爱滋拉夫人喜欢。



后来的爱滋拉,消瘦了,也脱顶了。"Sudden Death of Mr. Edward Ezra", 1921年12月17日的《北华捷报》用了这样大标题来报道爱滋拉英年早逝这一黄浦滩发生的大事件。Ezra was buried at the Baikal Road Jewish Cemetery in the Yangpu District after a service conducted by Rabbi Hirsch.爱滋拉葬在惠民路犹太人墓地。



100年过去了,淮海中路1209号爱滋拉的天赐大宅在2017年开始清理场地,之前是红枫医院,再之前是武警上海总队办公所在地,一直都很神秘。下图,还能看到高耸的指挥塔。那个被上海音乐学院学生称为”炮楼“的教学大楼在塔的边上。



拍摄时间:2006年10月 淮海中路嘉华中心



再看,指挥塔拆除了,炮楼的边上出现了一个新建筑,2010年。


与上音老师一次闲聊,我们得知爱滋拉的”天赐大宅“本应划入上海音乐学院院落内,1950年代,老院长贺绿汀先生婉言谢绝了陈毅市长好意,说够用了,高风亮节吧。2010年,音乐学院师生们只能在炮楼琴房里看隔壁邻居扩大面积赚租金。



彩色的来一套租赁下淮海中路1209号大院并加建的人不是一般人,周正宽,加拿大红枫集团掌门人,他在古北新区成功建造了臻园别墅,全部采用加拿大木料组装,古北路还没有贯通之前,要找到臻园有难度的,非常低调的富豪聚集地。有一次,我和凤阳路应公馆房东聊天,他和周正宽是复旦大学校友,周让他买一套臻园别墅,他更喜欢历史风情集一身的老洋房。


插播一条广告:凤阳路应公馆目前挂牌寻找有缘人,1388平方米产证面积,实际使用面积更大,上海罕见的私产文物级别百年老宅报价3.8亿元。意向客户需资格预审,请后台留言。


2010年的周先生想在淮海中路1209号这个“天赐”大舞台上甩一下长袖,但问题出在周先生是租客不是房主。主、客之间,你懂的。



如下,红枫医院时期的影像:


红枫医院时期的内景,我们代理的一个房子曾被红枫医院产业链上的关系企业租赁,听她说起过在那里生孩子的价格,2012年,顺产价格大概8万元,起步价。上图的宝宝是外籍,我们将孩子的名字隐去了,这是她妈妈po在instgram上的,哎,2017年5月24日红枫医院还一切正常,也许只有几个人知道这里将会有巨大的变化,军产不能碰啊。




我们看到2018年以后,红枫医院撤离,沿淮海中路街面房全部推倒,那个缓坡楼顶变成了平顶。下图,那些在游泳池边的带着全家人欢笑场景消失了。




我们曾找到一个机会与天赐大宅“亲密接触”,包场参观,楼前后、楼上下,目前院落内三栋老宅,一栋新大楼。




1939年小红本显示,天赐大宅的门牌号码为霞飞路1209号。




Robinson EC Mrs 

1209 Lingsen C ( Av Joffre ) 75910 

Robinson E Cawood 

1209 Lingsen ( Av Joffre ) 70995 


1947年,上海电话号码簿上的林森中路1209号用户名。


In 1907 Ezra married Mozelle Robinson Sopher (born 1890 in Shanghai; died August 1979 in Hong Kong), and they had two children, Cecil (born 1908) and Denzil (born 1914,应为1913年)。


爱滋拉夫人长寿(1890-1979年),她来自另一个著名的犹太家族“索福(沙发)",两个儿子,儿子继承了父亲的事业,但超越不了老子,中央商场也转手了。爱滋拉的侄女名叫Cecilia Ezra,后来成为一位建筑师。


Ezra's sister, his wife and their two sons continued to live in the Adeodata Hall. The sons Denzil and Cecil attempted to continue the real estate business, but failed to maintain the same level. The splendid Central Arcade, opened in 1929 on Nanking Road, did not stay in the clan's hands for long and was acquired by Chinese investors. Only Cecilia Ezra, the niece of the tycoon, could be said to have attained professional success, having become the first woman-architect in Shanghaiand joining the Minutti & Co. firm in 1934.


再回来,我们站在南正面墙边散步道拍摄的最大全景,完全对称结构。




我们在此凭吊,百年前爱滋拉英气勃发豪情万丈,也确实有过人的本领,他在商业地产和住宅地产开发上都来得出色和独到。


In 1896 The Central Stores Company, which was largely financed by Ezra, took over the Central Hotel (later the Peace Hotel) on the southern corner of Nanjing Road and the Bund. From 1900 Ezra had diversified his economic activities, adding large-scale real estate investments, construction, and management. Ezra was considered one of Shanghai's major landowners. Ezra "erected - on the land bounded by Nanking, Kiujiang, Szechwan and Kiangse Roads - 1,000,000 taels worth of residences that enjoyed modern amenities. The family interests included hotels," including the Astor House Hotel. By 1915 Ezra had generated enough wealth to be able to sell a choice property in the most desirable part of the Hongkou District on the northern bank of the Suzhou Creek directly across Huangpu Road from the Astor House Hotel, to the United States for their consulate. By 1920 the Astor House Hotel was making a handsome profit under his leadership. 南京路、九江路、四川路和江西路一带的都有他大量的房子,还有北外滩和北苏州河一路,钱来得太多了,于是为自己建造一个奢侈的天赐大宅就自然而然了,但这样的奢侈没有后来的嘉道理发挥得更极致,大理石大厦了解一下,爱滋拉去世后,他的上海酒店公司被嘉道理收购。









可以想象,爱滋拉在天赐大宅的二楼大圆弧型露台上望尽天际,日升日落,他觉得自己生活在上海这个异国他乡,但一点都没有隔阂和疏远,城郊外和中央商务区(外滩南京路和江西路圣三一教堂一带)生活完全不一样,农夫、山泉、有点田。



复杂的楼梯上上下下,没有使爱滋拉的身材匀称、健壮起来,也许是太爱美食的缘故吧。超级大舞厅也是为宾客准备,他可能更喜欢在音乐室,躺在沙发里欣赏音乐,目不转睛地盯着自家房顶如铜钱一样的花纹,大宅里还保留下红枫医院没有拆走的医疗隔断轨道。




上三层阁的楼梯,因为屋顶结构造型原因,有点压迫,估计爱滋拉不常去三层阁,不过,三楼外露台有无限风光。





目前楼里有电梯的,设计得不太巧妙。可能是为追求更多的套房,大空间被分割得有点比例失调。



天赐大宅“窗户造型,还有一个墙面配饰记得在壁炉上方,有点像家族徽但感觉有点简单了,抛砖引玉,有研究者吗?





从院落内的标记看出,衡复集团在代管。


最前面写的三个红圈,三个故事,新康花园故事:《淮海中路1273弄:新康花园和爱滋拉》(链接点进去看看);加油站的故事还需要增补,稍等。

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