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迪奥新品被指抄袭汉服“马面裙”、文化挪用引起争议!

Jerry TED英语演讲课 2022-09-12


TED英语演讲课

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近期,有中国网友发现迪奥官网一件中长半身裙与中国明代服饰“马面裙”设计雷同,事件迅速引发争议。


Dior has drawn controversy on the Chinese internet for a mid-length skirt that online spectators claimed resembled a traditional Chinese garment “mamianqun” from the Ming dynasty. 



一时间,关于迪奥抄袭的相关话题冲上微博热搜榜单,点击量超过1370万次。



这条黑色百褶裙售价3800美元,约合人民币29000元,在中国的汉服爱好者中引起争议。汉服爱好者是时下非常流行的亚文化群体,热爱中国古代传统服饰,并指出这款黑色半身裙非常类似于明代流行的汉服裙式“马面裙”。


The $3,800 black pleated skirt stirred controversy amongChina’s Hanfu enthusiasts, a popular subculture group who enjoy traditional Chinese clothing. They alleged the black wool and mohair wraparound skirt closely resembled a Ma Mian Skirt, or Horse Face Skirt, which was popular in the Ming dynasty.



马面裙,又名“马面褶裙”,汉服的一种,前后共有四个裙门,两两重合,侧面打裥,中间裙门重合而成的光面,俗称“马面”。马面裙早在宋辽时期就有人穿,并在明代流行起来。


Mamianqun, a wrapped, apron-like traditional Chinese skirt that was worn in China as early as the Song (960–1279) and Liao dynasties (916–1125) and became popular during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). The skirt is composed of two overlapping fabrics wrapped around the lower body: the two sides of the skirt are pleated, and there is a smooth section in the middle.


事实上,不同国家、地区之间的文化借鉴、交流是非常常见的。


In fact, it is very common for different countries and regions to learn from and communicate with each other.



根据《环球时报》报道,引起争议的点在于,迪奥将这款裙子描述为“标志性Dior廓形”、“全新的”时尚单品,完全否认了对中华传统服饰或文化的“借鉴”行为。


The Global Times found that, on the official website of Dior, the brand said the controversial mid-length skirt is "a hallmark Dior silhouette" in the description, which contains no content that indicates the skirt has anything to do with Chinese traditional clothes or culture.


有网友给出了一个专业的评价:与其说是抄袭,不如说是文化挪用(Cultural Appropriation)!

对于这种行为,国内外网友们纷纷表达了自己的观点:


@qing a: I think Dior should give a reply. Dior claims to be an original skirt, which is exactly the same as the mamian skirt of the Ming Dynasty in China. Please stop cultural misappropriation.

我认为迪奥官方应该给出回应。迪奥打着原创裙子的旗号,但实际上这款裙子和中国明朝的马面裙一模一样。请停止文化挪用。


@Lilly Lovelace: Sadly Dior is famous for cultural appropriation....

迪奥真可悲,出了名的爱文化挪用....


@Kell White: Thanks for your explanation of cultural appropriation, hope Dior could take back its arrogance...

谢谢你对文化挪用概念的解释,希望迪奥能收起自己的傲慢...


@0 12: Dior did this to India and Romania before, they never apologize.

迪奥以前对印度和罗马尼亚也进行过文化挪用,他们从来没道过歉。



@昀宝的小仙女:马面裙是中国的,拒绝文化挪用!


@小青山:文化挪用、抄袭、偷盗,什么时候才能停止!


截至此时此刻,迪奥官方尚未给出回应和道歉声明,并且已经关闭了微博评论。


Dior had not made any response to the controversy as of press time. The Global Times found that it had banned comments on its Weibo account.



文物不会说谎,是我们的就永远是我们的。


那么什么是文化挪用(Cultural Appropriation)呢:

有网友表示:对于该事件,文化挪用的后果或将是迪奥为马面裙申请商标注册,那么我们自己的明代汉服或许还要给迪奥支付版权费用


迪奥中国官网现已无法搜索到这款半身裙。不过在迪奥国外官网上,仍然能搜索到该款半身裙。可以看见,产品描述一栏没有修改,也并未提及任何中国传统文化相关的内容。


This skirt can still be seen on Dior's official website without any alternations of its description, while it has disappeared off the official Chinese website. Dior has not made any response to the controversy.



根据Philstar的报道,这已经不是迪奥第一次在中国发生争议。去年2021年11月,该品牌展示了中国摄影师陈曼拍摄的一张模特照片,据称该模特因“眼睛怪异”和“面部阴沉”而延续了世界对华人的刻板印象,并“抹黑了亚洲女性”。


This is not the first time Dior has figured in controversy with China, as last November 2021, the label showed a photo byChinese photographer Chen Man of a model that was said to have perpetuated stereotypes and “smeared Asian women” because of the use of “spooky eyes” and “gloomy face.”


身为国际大型品牌,面对多年来种种文化挪用的风波,迪奥接下来能否做到自律自觉、爱惜羽毛,给中华传统文化一个交代,让我们拭目以待。


素材来源:Yohoo News、Global Times、Philstar

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