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Closed Oven Beijing Roast Duck is in Town Now 焖炉北京烤鸭你吃过吗?

Myra Fong MOREmagazine 2020-10-11


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When talking about Beijing Duck, most people will think about Quanjude, the restaurant with a history starting in the Qing dynasty. But for true Beijingers, only Bianyifang, which dates even further back to the Ming dynasty, will do. It is this style of Ming dynasty roast duck that is served at the newly opened Gui Men Beijing Restaurant.

Located in a hip workspace in the north of Hangzhou, Gui Men is opened by Joey Feng, a born and bred Beijinger who relocated to Hangzhou decades ago and whose businesses include being a partner of JZ Club on Nanshan Road, owner of Fengji, a Beijing snacks restaurant and also a King Pot, a Beijing hotpot restaurant that is just next to Gui Men. Joey explained that when his family goes out to eat roast duck, they would always go to Bianyifang.

Joey Feng

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The difference is that Bianyifang uses a cooking style called men lu (焖炉) which roughly means “closed oven” while Quanjude uses gua lu (挂炉) or “hanging oven” style which cooks the ducks over an open flame. With men lu, the oven is heated to a certain temperature, then the flame is extinguished and the ducks placed in the oven to cook for 50 minutes. The experienced chefs at Bianyifang can feel with their hands whether the oven has reached the right temperature, no thermometer required. This kind of roasting is gentler and produces crisp skin while retaining a thin layer of fat and also keeping the meat moist.

▲ Men Lu (焖炉)

To reproduce the quality of Bianyifang, Joey has brought a chef who has 30 years of experience from Bianyifang to come roast ducks here. Each duck (传统北京烤鸭 178RMB) will yield 108 slices and each slice contains both skin and meat. Joey even taught us the proper way to eat Beijing duck. You first put 2 slices of duck on a pancake, then put 2 more slices that have been dipped in brown sauce over them. Then add cucumbers and leeks as you please and roll up the pancake, closing the bottom end.

▲ Beijing Duck (传统北京烤鸭 178RMB)

The details have been carefully thought out, like the way the leeks are cut on the diagonal, arching in a curve like eyebrows, in fact, this type of cut is called mei mao cong (眉毛葱) or eye brow leek. Often, the leeks in Beijing duck restaurants are cut vertically, leading to the situation that when you take a bite of the rolled pancake, the leeks are not cleanly bitten through and gets pulled out of the pancake, hanging embarrassingly from your mouth. At discerning Beijing duck restaurants, like Bianyifang, and now Gui Men, cutting leeks on the diagonal allows them to break easily when you bite the pancake.

A lot of work also went into the pancakes, each one handmade. If you crumple a pancake in your hand, you will see it bounce back out, not tearing or breaking. There’s even a special name for this pancake, he ye bing (荷叶饼) or lotus leaf pancake, because of the lotus leaf pattern the pancake takes on after being crumpled and bouncing back.

There are 2 ovens and each oven roasts 10 ducks at a time, so it is recommended to call ahead and reserve a duck.

Besides Beijing duck, you can try some other traditional Beijing dishes here, like Gongbao Chicken (宫保鸡丁 28RMB), a bright combination of sweet and sour flavours with a light touch of ma la spiciness from the Sichuan peppercorns.  It’s easily the best tasting gongbao jiding we’ve had in Hangzhou.

▲ Gongbao Chicken (宫保鸡丁 28RMB)

Gui Men Fish-head with Bread (簋门鱼头泡饼168RMB), a huge, meaty fish head cooked Shandong style in a savoury brown sauce. It’s served with a plate of flaky bread that you throw in the sauce to soak up the liquid.

▲ Gui Men Fish-head with Bread (簋门鱼头泡饼168RMB)

Gui Men Supreme Beef (簋门精品牛中皇 78RMB), chunks of beef tendon so soft you’ll have no trouble biting through gelatinous parts.

▲ Gui Men Supreme Beef (簋门精品牛中皇 78RMB)

Old Beijing Style Tripe (老北京爆肚儿58RMB), crunchy, blanched beef stomach with a sesame dipping sauce.

▲ Gui Men Supreme Beef (簋门精品牛中皇 78RMB)

Manchurian Lamb (大清贝勒爷烤羊肉 58RMB), slices of cumin spiced lamb over sautéed onions, a dish only royals could enjoy in the past.

▲ Manchurian Lamb (大清贝勒爷烤羊肉58RMB)

Speaking of royal palace cuisine, there’s the Signature 9 Folds Large Intestine (招牌九转大肠78RMB) for the adventurous. This is pig’s large intestine sliced open, washed very clean then rolled up into a roll with almost 9 layers, hence the name. If you’ve never tried pig’s large intestine but always wanted to, this is a good opportunity since it really is a refined dish and the normally strong, earthy animal taste is not so pronounced here. This dish is still served to world leaders at state banquettes nowadays.

▲ Signature 9 Folds Large Intestine (招牌九转大肠78RMB)

For drinks, we had a big jar of Osmanthus Flower Drink (桂花桃胶 38RMB) sweetened with brown sugar and Pear Soup (小吊梨汤 38RMB), if you are really daring, then try a bowl of Bean Juice (豆汁儿 6RMB) it’s sour and stinky and very nutritious as it’s made from the leftover water of the tofu making process.

▲ Pear Soup (小吊梨汤 38RMB)

▲ Bean Juice (豆汁儿 6RMB)

So next time you’re in the mood for Beijing Duck or real, authentic Beijing cuisine, head to Gui Men Beijing Restaurant for a meal that won’t disappoint.

▲ Honeycomb Coal Fried Rice (簋门蜂窝煤炒饭 28RMB)


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  Special For MORE Followers

 粉丝福利  

[5 WINNERS 5名]

Each winner will get a set menu for two people, vauled 270RMB

每人获得一份价值270元双人晚餐

THE TWO PERSON MEAL INCLUDES:

双人套餐包括以下内容: 

Beijing Duck *1

传统北京烤鸭

Gongbao Chicken *1

宫保鸡丁

Stir Fried Doughballs *1

炒疙瘩

Gui Men Beer / Soft Drink *2

簋门鲜啤或软饮


How to Get It

Comment on this post, and five lucky random people will be selected to get it.

写下留言,我们将随机选出五条精选评论获得这份福利。


Comment Deadline: 1pm, May 14th

 评论截止时间:5月14日下午1点

Available till June 14th, 2018

福利使用时间为2018年6月14日前

The restaurant has the right of final interpretation 

餐厅具有最终解释权

🚫 

WARNING 警告

If we catch you cheating or trying to double up on a prize, you will be banned from entering future contests.

一旦发现作弊或重复兑奖的行为,我们将取消兑奖资格且不能参与以后的粉丝福利。    

 Gui Men / 簋門京味小馆·焖炉烤鸭 

Loft 166, 189 South Jinhua Road

拱墅区金华南路189号丝联166园区内

11am - 9:30pm

0571 8776 6785

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