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打破传统,周冬雨杨幂拿下维密首个明星代言,大众却不买账?20200512

       

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周冬雨凭借电影《少年的你》获得香港金像奖影后。加上之前和马思纯一起主演《七月与安生》获得的金马奖影后,周冬雨也成为了90后首位双料影后。从《山楂树之恋》到《少年的你》,周冬雨用自己精湛的演技给大家留下了深刻印象。



作为炙手可热的女演员,周冬雨的代言也很有分量,她是兰蔻、Burberry、Nike以及肯德基长期合作的代言人,还凭借自己鬼马灵动的形象拿下了RIO微醺系列代言人。最近,周冬雨更是成为维多利亚的秘密大中华区品牌代言人,让很多人倍感意外。



维密同时还官宣了杨幂成为该品牌的亚太区代言人。值得一提的是,维密自创立以来,在中国区从未使用过明星担任品牌大使或者广告模特。这是该品牌在中国首次启用非超模的明星作为品牌代言人。这两位代言人中,杨幂偏向经典系列,周冬雨则偏向维密专为“千禧一代”女性打造的副线品牌PINK。




以往提到维密,我们都会想到大长腿、美胸翘臀、纤细腰身,这种虽然存在,但现实生活中却很少看到的魔鬼身材。




维密秀天使的选拔标准非常严格,身高1.76-1.8米,腰围60.9厘米,体重41-55公斤,体脂率不高于18%。大多数女性的体脂率一般在20%-25%,而且降低体脂率的难度非常大。不少模特会在维密天使选拔前,进行严苛的饮食和运动调节。



一直以来都有不少人吐槽维密秀崇尚“完美身材”的审美和价值观过于病态,随着市场的转型,维密的经营也遇到了一些问题,2019年,由于近年来收视率下降,维密一直引以为傲的维密秀也正式停办。


Since the late 1990s, Victoria's Secret has played a major role in defining what is sexy through its catalog and annual runway shows, granting the company global status and making it the biggest lingerie retailer in the United States with over 1,000 stores across the country.

自上世纪90年代末以来,维密通过自己多样的产品和每年的时装大秀,在定义何为“性感”方面发挥了重要作用。这也让该公司获得了全球地位,使其成为美国最大的内衣零售商,在全美拥有1000多家门店。


Victoria's Secret also has an elite group of contracted supermodels, known as “Angels,” who helped solidify the brand's image of beauty and sexiness. These models are some of the most well-known in the world.

维密还有由签约超模组成精英团队,被称为“维密天使”,她们帮助维密巩固了美丽和性感的品牌形象。这些模特都是世界上最知名的。



However, the lingerie powerhouse's grip on the market has started to slip in recent years. As society's views on beauty have shifted, the company has struggled to keep pace and stay relevant, causing sales to drop and forcing the company to close stores across the country.

然而,这家内衣巨头近年来对市场的控制力开始下滑。随着社会对美的看法产生改变,维密一直在努力跟上潮流,保持与时俱进,导致销售额下降,被迫关闭全美范围内的门店。


In 2019, Victoria's Secret closed over 50 stores across North America due to lagging sales performance. Victoria's Secret marketing campaigns featuring supermodel Angels no longer resonated with women who see themselves and their bodies in a different light.

2019年,由于销售业绩不佳,维密在北美关闭了50多家门店。以超模天使为特色的营销活动,已经不再能引起女性的共鸣,因为现在女性已经开始从不同的角度看待自己和自己的身体。


In February, fashion retailer L Brands, which owns Victoria's Secret, agreed to a US$525 million sale of a 55% controlling stake in the lingerie brand to Sycamore, a US private equity firm, valuing the lingerie brand at US$1.1 billion. This represents a sharp decline in the value of Victoria's Secret, which at its height recorded sales of US$7.7 billion – more than half of L Brands' revenue.

今年2月,维密的母公司时尚零售商L Brands同意以5.25亿美元的价格将该内衣品牌55%的控股权出售给美国一家私人股权公司Sycamore。对该品牌的估值为11亿美元。这意味着维密的价值急剧下降,在其鼎盛时期,维密的销售额达到了77亿美元,超过了L Brands收入的一半。



Since 2015 the company has struggled to adapt to a change in consumers' mindsets brought about by lingerie's new feminist era and the #MeToo movement. 

自2015年以来,该公司一直在努力适应女性内衣新女权主义时代和#MeToo运动带来的消费者心态变化。


Victoria's Secret was also slow to adjust to a change in fashion trends that prioritized comfort, with the rise in popularity of bralettes and sports bras as opposed to padded and push-up bras.

维密也未能及时适应将舒适放在优先位置的流行趋势变化。与带胸垫和带托举功能的胸罩相比,轻便型(无钢圈无胸垫)和运动型胸罩越来越受欢迎。


The brand's racy and provocative ads were criticized for being overly sexualized, with critics claiming the ads objectified women. The company was also criticized for trying to maintain unrealistic beauty standards and not doing enough to embrace a wider range of body types. 

该品牌挑逗性和刺激性的广告被批评过于性感,批评者称这些广告物化了女性。该公司还被批评试图维持不切实际的美丽标准,并且不够接受更广泛的体型。


Victoria's Secret sends a message to these adolescent girls and women that their models are the standard of beauty. The models are shown on TV commercials, ads, and magazines meaning it is seen on an everyday basis. Girls are comparing themselves with these high unrealistic standards that is captivated by the media. Women in these ads are highly objectified, idealized, and sexualized. 

维密向那些青春期少女和女性传达了一个信息,那就是她们的模特是美的标准。这些模特出现在电视广告、广告和杂志上,这意味着人们几乎每天都能看到她们。女孩们会把自己和媒体上吸引人的那些高得不切实际的标准进行比较。这些广告中的女性是高度物化、理想化和性感的。


维密曾经推出过一则广告,10位超模身穿维密内衣在镜头前摆出各种姿势,上面赫然写着“the perfect body”。这则广告一经推出就遭到了抵制,10位身材和肤色迥异的姑娘摆出了同款造型,告诉大家这才是真实的“the perfect body”。




除了营业额下滑,被批评物化女性以及病态审美之外,维密前首席营销官Ed Razek还传出了潜规则超模的丑闻。


The Time's report alleges multiple cases of inappropriate conduct by Ed Razek, such as trying to kiss models and asking them to sit on his lap. The report also alleges that Razek touched a model's crotch ahead of the 2018 Victoria's Secret fashion show and claims that models who complained faced retaliation, such as not being hired for the fashion show.

《纽约时报》报道称,Ed Razek有多起不当行为,比如试图亲吻模特,并要求她们坐在他的腿上。报道还称,Razek在2018年维密时装秀前摸了一名模特的胯部,并声称投诉的模特会遭到报复,比如被拒绝参加时装秀。


Ed Razek还曾公开表示过,跨性别模特和大码模特,不应该出现在维密秀上,因为内衣秀应该“给人幻想”。但是现实却是这位负责人两次被“打脸”。


2019年8月,来自巴西的跨性别模特Valentina Sampaio与维密的PINK系列签约,维密迎来首位跨性别模特。




2019年10月,大码模特Ali Tate-Cutler为维密与英国某内衣品牌合作系列的内衣拍摄了照片。Ali Tate-Cutler的身材是14码(相当于中国的L码),这是美国女性的平均尺寸。




虽然维密看起来已经在积极转变,但是仍然被不少人批评行动太晚了。这次官宣两位中国女演员作为新的代言人,也被人视为是拯救中国市场的信号。


The appointment of two actors from Asia appears to signal the brand's desire to move away from its overtly sexualised image and embrace diversity. In the past the lingerie brand has contracted models rather than actors, but it has run into flak for objectifying the female body.

官宣两位亚洲演员代言似乎表明,该品牌希望摆脱其过于性感的形象,拥抱多元化。过去,该内衣品牌曾与模特而非演员签约,但因物化女性身体而遭到抨击。


Yang is one of China's most successful and highest-paid actors. She said her coming on as a brand ambassador was part of a reshaping of its image: “Through a completely new interpretation, I want to make sexiness a natural expression in life, and it to become a more positive and beneficial force.”

杨幂是中国最成功的,片酬最高的演员之一。她说成为品牌代言人是重塑品牌形象的一部分:“通过全新的诠释,我想让性感在生活中成为一种自然的表达,让它成为一种更积极、更有益的力量。”


But the choice of Zhou has stirred more discussion, sparking debate about the brand's image and conventional ideals of attractiveness with a campaign that invites women to define sexiness on their own terms.

但选择周冬雨引起了更多的讨论,引发了大家对该品牌形象和传统吸引力理想的争论,还发起了一场运动,邀请女性以自己的方式定义性感。



Her slender figure is not what people would usually associate with the word sexy. Using the hashtag “sexy is this” on Weibo, the brand released a video of Zhou, looking fresh-faced and natural, talking about how she sees herself and the concept of “sexiness” as being comfortable with oneself. It is likely to resonate with women who buy lingerie for themselves and value comfort and quality above sexual appeal when making purchasing decisions. 

人们通常不会把周冬雨瘦削的身材与性感联系在一起。维密官博在微博上发表了一段标签为#性感如此#的视频,视频中的周冬雨看起来神采奕奕很自然,谈论她如何看待自己和“性感”的概念,即对自己感到舒适。这很可能与那些为自己购买内衣的女性产生共鸣,在做购买决定时,她们更看重舒适和质量,而不是性感。



“I'm not considered sexy in the traditional sense. But as I grew older, I felt that being sexy is not one-dimensional. There isn't a standard for it anymore. You can't tell yourself off just because you don't fit the stereotype. That's why I am happy to represent the brand in China. I want to tell Chinese girls like me that you can redefine sexy, as long as you are confident about who you are.” she said.

周冬雨表示:“我不是传统意义上的性感。但随着年龄的增长,我觉得性感不是一维的。现在已经没有标准了。你不能因为自己不符合刻板印象就责备自己。这就是为什么我很高兴成为维密大中华区的代言人。我想告诉像我一样的中国女孩,你可以重新定义性感,只要你对自己有信心。”



The tie-up with Zhou is part of an effort to redefine ‘sexy', company bosses have indicated. Netizens seemed to miss the point on the repositioning, however, with many expressing their confusion about why Zhou was representing the lingerie brand. Some netizens commented the endorsement is inappropriate for a lingerie line as Zhou's lean and uncurvy body shape makes the product look like childrenswear. 

维密的老板们表示,与周冬雨的合作是努力重新定义“性感”的一部分。然而,网友们似乎错过了重新定位的重点,许多人表达了他们的困惑,为什么周冬雨会代表这个内衣品牌。一些网友评论说,周冬雨不适合做内衣系列的代言人,因为她单薄和没有曲线的身材会让产品看起来像童装。


“In my view her figure has always been like a child's. This endorsement is too confusing.” one user commented under a post on review site Douban. 

一位豆瓣网友评论称:在我看来,她的身材一直像个孩子。这代言太让人困惑了。



Other responses were more supportive, saying that Victoria's Secret is keeping up with societal norms that put greater value on a wide range of body types.

其他一些人则表示支持,称维密在跟上社会常规,更重视各种体型。


Her endorsement of the brand offers a new definition of sexiness. Who says that sexiness is about body shapes? It can be an attitude towards life and each girl can have her own unique sexiness.

周冬雨代言维密为性感提供了新的定义。谁说性感就得是身材?它可以是一种生活态度,每个女孩都可以有自己独特的性感。




Unlike previous Victoria's Secret campaigns – that seem to fit more into stereotypical male fantasy mode – the two actresses show very little skin in their brand debuts. Racy lingerie is replaced by loungewear and casualwear. “Yang Mi's promotional photos have surpassed the brand's limits when it comes to how little they reveal. This set of photos looks like they were from one of the loungewear makers on Taobao. Just not Victoria's Secret.” one netizen disapproved.

与维密以往那些似乎更符合典型男性幻想模式的广告不同,两位女演员在维密的首次亮相中几乎没有裸露皮肤。挑逗性的内衣被居家服和休闲装取代。一位网友批评说:“杨幂的宣传照已经超出了品牌限制,露的太少了。这组照片看起来就像是来自某宝上的家居服店铺,就不是维密罢了。”


Others appreciated the change in direction. “I like Zhou Dongyu's interpretation very much. In the past, Victoria's Secret gave me the feeling of vulgar porn,” one wrote.

但是其他人则对这样的转变表示欣赏。有人写到:“我非常喜欢周冬雨的诠释,在过去维密给我一种低俗色情的感觉。”



真正的性感是接受自己认同自己,取悦自己而非他人。接受自己的长处和短处,同时仍然感到迷人和自信,而不是衡量自己胸围、腰围和臀部尺寸是否符合所谓的标准。


平胸不能代言维密吗?性感真的只看身材吗?到底谁可以定义性感?对此,你有什么想说的?


文章来源:普特英语听力网

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