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李子柒登上《纽约时报》!全球粉丝过亿,人民日报点赞,这个中国“公主”逆天了!

       

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文章来源:蔡雷英语

4月29日,知名博主李子柒在YouTube上的粉丝突破1000万,总观看量为13.5亿次,成为首个在该平台粉丝破千万的中文创作者。



在视频中,观众的评论来自世界各地,目前她的微博粉丝超2400万,抖音粉丝超3000万,累计全球粉丝过亿,已经成为走红全球的文化名人。


作为国内短视频领域排名第一的网红,她在海外社交媒体的影响力与美国影响力最大的媒体CNN不相上下,但CNN已经发布超过14万条视频,李子柒仅有100余条。



近日,这位中国乡村美食博主,还征服了美国知名媒体《纽约时报》(The New York Times)。


有美食评论作者专门为她写了一篇文章《The Reclusive Food Celebrity Li Ziqi Is My Quarantine Queen》,称呼她为在隔离时期的“公主”。


顺便一提,在YouTube上,《纽约时报》的订阅者只有181万,李子柒似乎比它受欢迎多了。


文章称,在李子柒的视频里,她自己自足,食物全部来自自家后院,这是一种无比梦幻的生活,人们种植和烹调食物,不浪费任何东西,也不需要再追求身外之物。



Like so many home cooks in quarantine, after I’ve used up the green tops of my scallions, I drop the white, hairy roots into a glass of water to regenerate, feeling pleased with my own sense of thrift and pragmatism.

如同众多的家庭料理师一样,当用掉葱的葱绿之后,我会把带着根须的葱白丢进一杯水里让它重新生长,同时为自己的节俭务实感到喜悦。


But last week, after the Chinese internet star Li Ziqi posted a new cooking video to YouTube called “The Life of Garlic,” I wished I could graduate from scallions on the windowsill.
但上周,当中国的网红李子柒在油管新发布了一条名为《蒜的一生》的烹饪视频后,我真希望自己能结束这种窗台种葱的状态。


In the 12-minute video, which already has over millions of views, Ms. Li pushes garlic cloves into a patch of earth outside her home. A time lapse shows the sprouts growing, reaching up toward the sky.
在这段12分钟、阅读量已超700万的视频中,李子柒把蒜瓣铺在自家门外的一块地里。一段时间流逝,蒜瓣开始破土生长,向天空伸展。


Ms. Li sautées the young, fresh green garlic shoots with pork. When she harvests the bulbs, she plaits the stems, hanging them up to finish the drying process, pickling and preserving the rest, and using some to season chicken feet and dress salad.
李子柒用鲜嫩的青蒜苗来炒猪肉。当她把蒜头收回来后,她就把茎秆编成辫子,将它们挂起来风干,其余的腌渍保存起来,并且用其中一些来拌鸡爪和沙拉。


Ms. Li, who lives in a village in Sichuan Province and rarely speaks to press, looks not unlike a Disney princess in her crown braids, wearing a silvery fur cape, trudging gracefully in the snow. At 29, she is famous for her mesmerizing videos of rural self-sufficiency, posted on Weibo and YouTube.
李子柒生活在四川的农村,很少与媒体接触。在她梳着皇冠发辫,身穿银色毛皮斗篷,在雪地里优雅行走的时候,看上去真像是个迪士尼公主。她今年29岁,因为在微博和油管发布一些反映自给自足的迷人农村生活的视频而出名。


For a worldwide audience in isolation, her D.I.Y. pastoral fantasies have become a reliable source of escape and comfort.
对于全世界处于隔离当中的观众来说,她这种自给自足的田园梦想已经成为逃离和安逸的可靠源泉。


I usually plan to watch one — just one — but then I let the algorithm guide me to another, and another, until, soothed by bird song and instrumentals, I’m convinced that I’m absorbing useful information from Ms. Li about how to live off the land. If I’m ever stuck with two dozen sweet potatoes, I now have some idea how to extract the starch and use it to make noodles. This is what I tell myself. Leave me alone in a lotus pond, and I know how to harvest and prepare the roots.
我通常只想看一个视频,就看一个而已,但之后就会让算法指引我看完一个又一个,直到被鸟儿的欢歌和乐器抚慰心灵,确信自己吸收了李子柒传授的以地为生的有用资讯。要是我曾为两打红薯而纠结,那么现在我有些头绪,知道如何提取淀粉并且用它来做粉条了。我就是这么说服自己的。就算把我丢在一个荷塘里,我也知道怎么采藕和备藕了。


Ms. Li doesn’t explain anything as she goes. In fact, she tends to work in silence, without the use of any modern kitchen gadgets. Her sieve is a gourd. Her grater is a piece of metal that she punctures, at an angle, then attaches to two pieces of wood. Her basin is a stream, where she washes the dirt from vegetables.

李子柒做事时从不做任何解释。事实上,她喜欢静静地干活,不使用任何的现代厨房设备。她的筛子是葫芦做的。她的刨丝器是一块金属片,她自己在上面按一定的角度打了一些孔,然后固定在两块木头上。小溪就是她的水池,她在那里清洗蔬菜上的泥污。


Her kitchen is nothing like mine, in Los Angeles. But watching Ms. Li on my laptop, while eating a bowl of buttered popcorn for dinner, I think maybe I could be happy living like that, too, soaking in the sheer natural beauty of the countryside, devoting myself to extremely traditional ways of cooking.
她的厨房跟我在洛杉矶家里的厨房完全不一样。但是在笔记本电脑上看李子柒时,我一边吃着一碗黄油爆米花作为晚餐,一边想着自己或许那样生活也会很快乐,沉浸在乡村纯粹的自然美景之中,忠诚地践行极其传统的烹饪方式。


Ms. Li makes peach blossom wine and cherry wine, preserves loquats and rose petals. She makes fresh tofu, and Lanzhou-style noodle soup with a perfectly clear broth, and ferments Sichuan broad bean paste from scratch. She butchers ducks and whole animals.
李子柒会酿桃花酒、樱桃酒,懂得保存枇杷和玫瑰花瓣。她会做新鲜的豆腐和清汤兰州拉面,还能从零开始发酵四川豆瓣酱。她还会屠宰鸭子和整只的动物。


She is not known for taking shortcuts. A video about matsutake mushrooms begins with her building the grill to cook them, laying the bricks down one at a time, scraping the mortar smooth, then hunting for mushrooms in the woods.
她并非因为走捷径而成名。在一个关于松茸的短片里,一开始展现的是她在搭烤松茸的烤架,铺砖的时候一次一块,然后刮平灰浆,接着再去树林里找蘑菇。


In a video about cooking fish, she first goes fishing, in the snow, patiently throwing back any catches that are too small, as snowflakes freeze into her hair.
在一个关于焖鱼的短片里,她先是冒着风雪去钓鱼,并且耐心地将钓到的那些太小的鱼扔回去,期间,雪花都在她的头发上凝结了。


Like the main character in some kind of post-apocalyptic novel, Ms. Li is almost always alone, though she doesn’t seem lonely, riding her horse through fields of wildflowers, or carrying baskets of sweet potatoes under citrus trees. She seems tireless, focused, confident, independent.
就像某些末日后小说中的主角那样,李子柒几乎总是一个人,尽管她看上去并不孤单,她会策马穿过野花草地,或者提着一篮篮红薯走在柑橘树下。她似乎不知疲倦,专心致志,自信又独立。


The videos are deeply soothing. But it’s not just that — they reveal the intricacy and intensity of labor that goes into every single component of every single dish, while also making the long, solitary processes of producing food seem meaningful and worthwhile.
这些视频让人深感治愈。但不限于此——它们揭示了每道菜的每个成分所蕴含的复杂的劳动强度,同时也让做菜时的漫长而孤独的过程显得有意义、有价值。


It’s the complete opposite of most cooking content, the kind that suggests that everything is so quick and easy that you can do it, too, and probably in less than 30 minutes.
这跟大多数的烹饪主题背道而驰。那些内容暗示着每道菜都简单快捷,因此你也可以做出来,而且,用时不到30分钟。


But Ms. Li also romanticizes the struggles of farm life, and, as any savvy influencer would, monetizes that appeal. In her online shop, she sells a curved cleaver, similar to the ones she uses in her videos, as well as loose Hanfu-inspired linen clothing, Sichuan ginseng honey and chile sauces.
但是李子柒将农村生活的艰难浪漫化了,而且她就跟任何机智的网红一样,也将这种吸引力变现。在她的网店里,她售卖一种弯刀,跟她在视频中使用的那种相似,同时还售卖以汉服为灵感设计的宽松亚麻服饰,以及四川参蜜和辣椒酱。


Skeptics are suspicious of her access to YouTube in China, where the platform is blocked. And though it seems unlikely, some people have wondered in the comment sections if her videos are propaganda.
怀疑论者会质疑,中国屏蔽了油管,但她为什么能在中国使用?虽然看起来不太可能,但评论区里有人怀疑她的视频是不是政治宣传。


Ms. Li’s story, as she tells it, is that she left home as a teenager to find work, but returned to the countryside to take care of her grandmother, then began documenting her life. Though she used to shoot her videos alone, on her phone, she now works with an assistant and a videographer.
根据李子柒自己所言,她的故事是这样的:她十多岁就离家出外打工,后来回到农村照顾奶奶,然后开始记录自己的生活。虽然她的视频以前是自己一个人用手机拍的,但现在她有了一个助手和一名摄像师。


“I simply want people in the city to know where their food comes from,” Ms. Li said, in a rare interview with Goldthread last fall. (She never responded to my requests.)
“我只想让城里的人知道,他们的食物是从哪里来的,”李子柒这么说。去年秋天,她罕见地接受《南华早报》旗下媒体Goldthread的采访。(她对我的采访请求从不回应。)


But most of the world’s food, whether in China or the United States, doesn’t come from anyone’s backyard, and isn’t made from scratch. Noodles are produced and packaged in factories. Chickens and pigs are gutted on fast, dangerous lines.
但无论在中国还是美国,世界上的大部分食物都并非来源于某个人的后院,也不会从零开始制作。面条是在工厂里生产和包装的。鸡和猪是在快速而危险的流水线上被宰杀的。


The fragility of our industrial supply chains, and the immense risks for the people who work in commercial plants and slaughterhouses, have been laid bare in the last few weeks.
我们工业供应链之脆弱,商业工厂和屠宰场的工人所承受的巨大风险,在过去几周都暴露无遗。


Ms. Li sidesteps the existence of that broken system entirely. This is the powerful fantasy of her videos right now — people growing and cooking all of their own food, not wasting anything, and not needing anything more than what they already have around them.
李子柒完全躲过了这个残缺体系的存在。这是如今她的视频所拥有的巨大诱惑力——人们种植和烹调食物,不浪费任何东西,也不需要再追求身外之物。


In isolation, watching Ms. Li gather rose petals and ripe tomatoes, I catch myself thinking, is this sequence set in the past, or the future? Are these videos a record of the collective food knowledge we’ve already lost, or an idealized vision of its recovery?
在隔离期间,观看李子柒采摘玫瑰花瓣和成熟的番茄的视频时,我陷入深思,这一片段的背景是过去还是未来?这些视频是我们已遗失的集体化食物知识的记录,还是关于这些知识的复兴的理想化愿景?


对于李子柒的走红,也许会有人说,这大概是中国网民数量多造成的。


然而李子柒的评论区里,目测95%以上都是老外,英语、俄语、韩语……他们用不同的语言表达对李子柒的喜爱!


李子柒独特的东方气质和古色古香的生活在不断地吸引着同样热爱中国文化的全球粉丝。


她的原创视频在海外播放仅仅3个月的时间就迅速斩获YouTube银牌奖,法媒更称赞“她的作品给大家带来了一股清新的空气”



共青团中央都点赞转发她的数个视频,央视新闻更用一篇评论文章,把她夸上了热搜。



有人评价上,就对海外观众传播中国文化这件事情而言,一个李子柒绝对抵得上10个CGTV。


而对于自己拍摄这一系列视频的初衷,她表示是想让人们“能感到轻松和美好,能减轻一些焦虑和压力感”。


并且她想让生活在大都市里的孩子们知道,餐桌上的饭菜都是从哪儿来的。



引申阅读:

李子柒首次接受外媒独家专访,终于知道她为何在国外被捧成“公主”

看了李子柒的后院,终于明白为什么2000万人羡慕她的生活了...


可以说,从李子柒身上,让不少人明白到美食和古典文化原来真的可以冲破语言的限制,打破种族的屏障。



到底为什么李子柒的视频如此受人喜爱?


可能正如人民日报所言:它所表达的中式生活之美,在赏心悦目之际让人愿意接近。

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汤唯英文采访,流利自信大方

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