An old pleasure garden finds modern expression
Word count: 1233
Time estimated: 12 min
Zhangyuan, China's first modern pleasure garden, is regaining some of its past glory as a lively rendezvous point after undergoing relocation and renovation for years.
Zhangyuan, or Zhang's Garden featured an inexhaustible supply of novelties, like a roller coaster, the aquatic Lotic Brave Ride, a fireworks show, circus performances, a charity bazaar and bike racing around the turn of the last century.
An alleyway in Zhangyuan
But over time, the garden's glitter faded as new forms of entertainment, like cinemas, captivated the public. The garden area was later converted to private residences and then decayed into a neighborhood of dilapidated houses.
The western section of Zhangyuan reopened on November 27 where historic buildings have been converted to boutique stores and pop-up displays of well-established luxury brands like Dior, Louis Vuitton and Vacheron Constantin as well as instagrammable stores like Blue Bottle Coffee, By Far and RE Bike Museum.
A tea party in Zhangyuan about a century ago
Roller coaster in Zhangyuan more than a century ago
"We want to show people how it looked like 100 years ago," said Zhou Qi, who's been repairing and restoring historical buildings for nearly a decade. "As people meander through the alleyways, they will feel transported back to the heyday of Zhangyuan."
"High buildings and wide roads were once considered to be the epitome of urban development. But nowadays, it's the revival of historic blocks," said Zhou. "It's more than just a facelift. Urban renewal is a matter of blending historic buildings and modern settings."
Zhangyuan will feature first stores, debut products and other firsts, according to the developers.
"We tried to explore the brands' cultures and blend with the vibes of historic buildings," said Shi Yunlun, chairman of Shanghai Jing'an Real Estate Group, noting that some big-name brands had been rejected. "The organic combination between the old and the new. That's why it has cost us much time to select brands. "
LV displays in an open square.
Dior occupies the iconic Zhangyuan 77.
Zhangyuan, tucked away in the bustling Nanjing Road W., dates back to 1872, when a British merchant bought a plot of farmland to build garden villas. It fell into the hands of wealthy Chinese entrepreneur Zhang Shuhe in 1882 and he turned it to the city's most popular pleasure destination three years later, calling it Zhangyuan.
Pleasure garden came of age in the 18th century in Europe, and Zhangyuan became a Far East expression of that phenomenon.
It was the site of the city's first electric lighting, first outdoor photo studio, first modern drama performance and first Western-style wedding – among its many groundbreaking activities. It also witnessed treasure expos, charity gigs, boxing championships and open speeches of notables like Dr Sun Yat-sen, educator Cai Yuanpei and scholar Ma Xiangbo.
A multimedia art installation displays old Shanghai life.
However, as newer entertainment venues sprang up, the garden gradually declined, and it closed in 1918. The next year, the year of Zhang's death, his garden was subdivided and sold to 28 developers. Though his dream park vanished, a living shikumen museum emerged.
"Different developers favored different architectural styles in different times," Zhou said. "They basically fall into the shikumen architectural style, but they differed in details that embraced Renaissance, Baroque and Eclectic styles. It is quite literally an architectural treasure trove."
However, the stately residences were later partitioned into smaller units occupied by multiple families, which led to squalid living conditions, with shared kitchens and toilets, and cracked walls and leaky ceilings.
A bird's-eye view of Zhangyuan before its renovation
Jing'an launched the urban renewal plan of Zhangyuan in 2018, and started relocation and renovation the next year. More than 1,200 families were relocated and 42 historic buildings were retained: 16 in the western section and 26 in the eastern section.
Zhou and his team spent a year wrapping up the renovation of the western section of Zhangyuan by the end of September.
"We try to restore their original look as far as possible as to retain its historical and cultural charm as well as to trigger a sense of nostalgia among people who used to work and live here," said Shi with Shanghai Jing'an Real Estate Group.
Zhou said 17 historic buildings in the western section and 26 in the eastern section are being preserved. The details of each, including antique fireplaces and wooden staircases, have been catalogued with information about age, history and condition.
Zhangyuan 77, an iconic building in Zhangyuan.
Zhangyuan 77, one of the most iconic buildings in the old garden, was known by locals as "the building with the green dome."
A notice posted on the building's wall states that it was designed in 1921 by British architects and owned by a banker named Wang Junchen. It also says that the three-story wood-and-brick structure was built as a garden villa featuring Baroque and traditional Chinese elements.
The document further states that the building's decor and fixtures would get special attention during the restoration process.
Zhou Qi's office in front of Zhangyuan 77 was demolished.
"It's of the highest protection levels in the western section, meaning that its structures, facades and some details have to be restored to their original look," Zhou said.
Pointing to one mottled pillar, Zhou said, "We purposely didn't remove some of the scratches or slogans written in the old days. We just reinforced them and repaired some cracks. These are historical traces."
Zhangyuan was a decayed neighborhood before renovation.
When Zhou joined Jing'an Construction & Decoration Industrial Co in 2008, the company's office was located in Zhangyuan 77.
"At that time, the building was used as office for high-ranking officials, and we, as junior employees, worked in a building erected nearby, which was later demolished," he said, pointing out beyond two trees. "That's where my desk was."
He remembers crossing over a delicate garden to Wujiang Road to buy afternoon snacks. Admittedly, some places were too dilapidated to be repaired, and many original building materials were lost. Construction materials often had to be cannibalized from other old buildings.
Squalid living conditions in Zhangyuan before renovation.
"At that time, when historic buildings were razed, bricks, tiles, wooden pillars and other construction materials were treated as waste. So we stepped up to recycle them," Zhou said.
He said old materials, like bricks from the Dongsiwenli shikumen neighborhood about 1 kilometer away, were invaluable in renovations.
We now incorporate urban renewal concepts in renovations. A perfect pairing of the old and new.
— Zhou Qi
Renovation of Zhangyuan is still under way. Under the plan, the eastern section will feature boutique hotels, apartment buildings and creative workplaces. It is set to open to the public by the end of 2026. The southern and northern sections will feature a performing arts center, museum and other cultural venues.
Zhangyuan, he said, is being reincarnated as a site of fashion, culture and commerce.
Western elements can be seen from the ornaments and interior of Zhangyuan 77.
Currently, the compound is only open to invited guests. It will open to the public on December 1, but viewing is by appointment only via WeChat account "上海张园."
Based on the city's COVID-19 prevention and control measures, it has an instantaneous maximum reception capacity of only 1,500 visits, according to Shi.
In celebration of its reopening, light displays showing Zhangyuan's history with treasured moments when it captivated the public with a heady mix of novelties like a roller coaster, firework show and fire balloon over a century ago will be staged 6pm to 10pm every day for 14 days through December 10.
If you go:
Entrance: Lane 588, Weihai Rd, or Lane 258, Maoming Rd N.
Public transport: Nanjing Road W. Station of Metro Line 2, 12 and 13
Admission: Free
Click the pictures to read past stories ↓
Editor: Su Yanxian
Designer: Shi Jingyun, Shen XinyiWriter: Li Qian
Photo: Jiang Xiaowei, Dong Jun, Ti Gong