Beijing Restaurant Review: Toast

By Noelle Mateer

Images by Holly Li

Toast, the restaurant at The Orchid that now serves dinner, is great for dates. I don’t go on a ton of dates, but I do have a vivid imagination. So allow me, if you will, to paint a scene for you.

So, you really like this guy. He is handsome and intelligent. You tell your friends all about him, and when you show them a picture of him, they go “daaamn girl!” and then high five you. You met him at some cool party, you tell them. That one inappropriate friend (everyone has one) gets drunk and asks something about his penis. You gasp at her audacity and then blush and giggle and refuse to answer the question. You are classy! You are demure.

Fast-forward to, say, date three or four. You spend an hour doing your hair and makeup so that it looks like you didn’t spend any time on it at all. You are naturally this beautiful. Your guy shows up and says: “Hey, you know The Orchid? The boutique hotel in Gulou? They have dinner now.” You go.

Inside, the setting is romantic. Remember that thing I say about The Orchid being great for dates? You realize I’m right. You begin with Toast’s special bread and dips (RMB98): freshly baked wheaty triangles accompanied by hearty, lightly spiced hummus; creamy Greek yogurt with a puddle of olive oil; and a deep-purple spread made with beets. Beetroot is typically a nerdy superfood, you think, but this is sexy. Damn.

“Cheers,” says your guy as you clink glasses of sparkling (RMB55) together. One day, you two will create beautiful babies. But until then, you eat samosas with stewed chickpeas (RMB68, very reasonable given the filling nature of their thick, velvety chickpea gravy).

You also order the beautifully plated poached egg kofte (RMB78). The egg jiggles atop a delicately seasoned mix of minced beef and lamb until you and your guy poke it with your forks and let the yokes run wild over the meats and greens below. This is vaguely erotic. You blush.

“I’m getting a lot of Middle Eastern vibes,” you say, pointing to the hummus and the kofte.

“But what about these spicy coconut wings (RMB68)?” says your guy. “They’re pretty Thai.”

Good point. He is so smart. One day, you two will move into a fancy renovated hutong with heated flooring together. But until then, you enjoy a simple shakshua (RMB78). At the end of the meal, you agree that Toast’s food is excellent value, its service swift and its atmosphere hushed and calming.

The Orchid’s new restaurant, like an orchid flower, is rare and beautiful. But it’s also small, so book ahead. (An aside: Did you know you can WeChat The Orchid? Shoot them a message and they’re obliged to get back to you. So fun! Since I’ve found this out, The Orchid has regretted offering this service.)

To be clear: The Orchid is great for all sorts of dates. Heteronormative dates. Gay dates. Friend dates. Get-togethers. Chilled-out girls’ nights. Boys’ nights. Gender-neutral nights with non-gender specific people. Tinder dates! (Actually it’s probably too nice for Tinder dates, go to a bar for that.)

What I’m trying to say is: This space is relaxing and romantic. It’d probably be great for dates. Even if those dates are in your imagination.

Wed-Mon, 6-10pm; The Orchid Gulou, 65 Baochao Hutong, Xicheng 西城区宝钞胡同65号 (8404 4818)

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