Beijing Restaurant Review: Xihe Village

By Oscar Holland

In the small English village of Chulmleigh, Devonshire, a duck called Star became a local celebrity after his owner put him in a bow tie and took him to the pub. Described in the gloriously named Cheddar Valley Gazette as “Britain’s booziest duck,” Star discovered a penchant for ale, and was often seen standing on the bar, his bill deep in a pint glass.

Recounting this tale has no purpose other than to illustrate the following point: while ducks and drinking are not usual bedfellows, they can go remarkably well together. And this is exactly what we discover at the latest branch of the Peking Duck restaurant Xihe Village.

You may have been to one of Xihe’s other locations. But this one is on the third floor of Taikooli South, so it caters to the needs of the Sanlitun crowd. As a result, there’s a well-stocked bar with bottles found on shelves so high, we wonder how the staff are supposed to reach them.

The spot has all the trappings of an enjoyable drinking place. The deep wood furnishings and high ceilings offer something more refined than the usual restaurant setting, while the cute pods at the entrance provide some privacy. There’s even a little roof terrace (yes, that time of year is upon us already).

But Xihe works perfectly well as a restaurant too. By day, natural light pours in and reveals the finer touches of the understated decor. Crucially, the Peking Duck (RMB258 with all the accompaniments) is some of the best in Sanlitun. The pancakes even come on a circular plate that allows you to spin the accoutrements toward yourself like a lazy Susan. Fittingly, the duck comes with a flight of wines – red, white and sparkling – which have been paired with the three types of duck meat.

Were it not for the fact that he’d end up in an oven, we suspect that Star the duck might like this place.

Mon-Fri, 11am-2.30pm and 5-10pm, Sat-Sun, 11am-10pm; Taikooli South, 19 Sanlitun Lu 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区 (6417 6082)

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