黄晓明和AB的嫁衣出自她手，高龄名模卡门也将最后一次走秀献给了她 | The Woman Dressing the World

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For many people, the fashion world is a place where fame meets fortune. Tall, slim supermodels strut elegantly in clothes decorated in gold and silver; luxury goods are produced from this array of fancy attire and subsequently brought into the market, leading the trends of each season. Paris, the world’s fashion capital, has become the place to be for many aspiring designers.

时尚界在普通人眼中，大概既是秀场，也是名利场。优雅高挑的超模披金戴银，梦幻般的华服充斥台前幕后，一件件奢侈品从这里产出，走向市场，引领时尚惹得众人追捧……而巴黎作为时尚之都，更使得设计师们趋之若鹜。

On the star-lit runways of Paris, a woman from Asia has caught the attention of many in this ever-changing industry. 

在巴黎秀场的星光熠熠之中，有个亚洲面孔格外不寻常。

“I don’t want to design up-to-date fashion," said Guo Pei, one of China’s first-generation fashion designers and haute couturiers. "I refrain from defining the lifespan of anything with time.”

在瞬息万变的时尚圈中，她却声称：“我就不想做时装。我特别讨厌用时间来定义一个事物的生命。”

Haute couture is an artistic, personalized method of design that Guo believes outlives the lifespan of “trendy clothes.” She hopes to merge clothes, people and culture into one, to create the sort of fashion that can truly become part of people’s lives.

将服装艺术化、个性化的设计形式，正是郭培所追求的生命长过所谓“流行”的服装。她希望将服装与人、与文化结合起来，制作真正走入人们生活的服装。

Guo loves designing wedding gowns, believing that “a single wedding gown can be passed down for three generations.” Traditionally in China, a mother sews her daughter’s wedding gown. Each needle and thread carries the affection and prayers of a mother to her child.

所以，郭培最喜欢做的是嫁衣，她称其为“一件可以传承三代的衣裳。”中国传统上的嫁衣由母亲为女儿置办。一针一线中，凝结的都是母亲对女儿的关心与祝福。

In modern China, only a few wear traditional wedding gowns on their big day. However, today, more celebrities are appearing in public wearing Chinese-style wedding gowns designed by Guo, slowly making her and her traditional handicraft the new mainstream.

虽然在现代中国，结婚时穿传统嫁衣的人越来越少，但随着越来越多的明星开始穿着郭培设计的中式嫁衣出现在公众面前，郭培和她的传统工艺也逐渐成为流行。

Chinese-style wedding gowns designed by Guo Pei,worn by Huang Xiaoming and Angelababy

黄晓明和Angelababy的中式嫁衣出自郭培之手

Guo's studio is most famous for traditional embroidery. All her designs are handmade, stitch after stitch, by the studio’s embroiderers. Some pieces could take thousands of hours to complete. Authentic gold and silver threads and luxurious fabrics are used, and some of her designs weigh up to a few dozen pounds. Guo emphasizes the importance of the history and heritage of traditional clothes and craftsmanship, so she rarely uses modern technology in her fashion.

她设计的大部分服装，都是由绣工一针一线绣出来的，工期可达几千个小时。货真价实的金线银丝和奢华的面料，让服装往往重达几十斤。她非常注重服装和制作工艺的历史传承，几乎不动用现代科技去制作衣服。

Pure handicraft like this is deemed to be valuable enough to pass down to the next few generations.

这样的纯手工制品，仅就其价值来说，也足以传给好几代人。

Guo's designs focus on the aspect of culture. She finds inspiration not only in traditional Chinese culture, but also the cultural exchanges that have been going on for the past few centuries, culminating in the flowers and birds shown in her designs. That’s why, aside from traditional dragon, phoenix, flower and bird patterns, she also incorporates flowers and fruits from western regions into her designs.

郭培的设计作品中，最重视的就是文化。不仅仅是中华传统文化，她也关注在几百年的文化交流中，最终体现在服饰上一花一鸟中的融合成果。所以，除了龙凤、花鸟等传统纹样，郭培还将来自西域的花卉和瓜果融入了刺绣图案之中。

In the “Courtyard” series, Guo incorporated patterns showing the flowers and plants that grow inside Chinese courtyards into Western-style gowns, creating a graceful combination of the classic and the modern. This series was the grand finale at the 2016 Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. 

在名为“庭院”的系列里，郭培将中式庭院中的花草纹样带到西式礼服中，创造出古典与现代交融的唯美效果，并在2016年的巴黎高定时装周压轴登场。

Guo's pursuit of beauty and her design aesthetic have garnered the attention of the fashion industry. One of her most recognizable designs was featured on the red carpet at the 2015 Met Gala. Singer Rihanna attended the annual event draped in a yellow dress and dramatic, fur-lined cape designed by Guo. 

郭培对美的追求也感染了他人。

Singer Rihanna attended the annual event draped in a yellow dress at the 2015 Met Gala

蕾哈娜穿着金黄龙袍亮相2015年“时尚奥斯卡”Met Ball顶级红毯

At her 2017 Paris fashion show “Legend,” 86-year-old supermodel Carmen Dell'Orefice, known as the world's oldest working supermodel, closed Guo's show in a blood-red gown. 

在2017年郭培在巴黎的《传奇》时装秀上，86岁高龄的传奇名模卡门，将她此生最后一次走秀献给了郭培。

The two also collaborated back in 2010 during her “One Thousand and Two Nights” show. Upon seeing her design, Carmen said: “Pure beauty like this has left me in awe.”

此前，卡门在2010年与郭培有过合作，参加了郭培名为《一千零二夜》的走秀。穿上郭培制作的服装时，她说：“这些纯粹的美让我充满敬畏”。

“Through handicraft, I want to convey a state of mind, a true aspiration,” said Guo, who sometimes embroiders her own designs. She believes that haute couture can help people rise above themselves to create better things, leaving memories for future generations.

有时候，郭培也会亲自动手进行刺绣。她说：“我用实实在在的手工，传递了一种精神，一种正确的追求。”她认为，高定能让人类超越自我、创造更好的东西，并为世人留下记忆。

Perhaps, for her customers and audience, the beauty of her designs is indeed a path to eternity.

也许，对她的客人和观众来说，这种美，的确是可以触及永恒的方式之一。

Cameraman: Li Ming

Film editor: Wu Yupei, Li Enpeng

Story written by: Zhu Siqi

English editor: Matthew Arrington Watson

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