69岁无腿老人成功登顶珠峰！8844.43米，他用了43年 | Amputee Climber

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May 14, 2018. That’s the day that 69-year-old Xia Boyu finally stood on the peak of Mount Qomolangma, 8,844.43 meters above sea level. It has been 43 years since his first attempt.

2018年5月14日，69岁的夏伯渝终于站在了海拔8844.43米的珠穆朗玛峰山顶。此时距他第一次尝试登顶已经过去了43年。

Xia has had both his feet amputated, as well as lymphoma, thrombus in the lower limbs and four failed attempts to reach the peak. People say that his story is the real life version of "The Man and the Mountain." Standing on the top of the world, Xia says: "There's no special feeling. I deserve it."

在此之前，他经历双腿截肢、罹患淋巴癌、下肢血栓，还有4次失败的冲顶，有人说他的故事是现实版的“老人与山”。站在世界之巅，夏伯渝说：“没有什么特殊的感觉，就好像我应该上来一样。”

Everything began in 1975 when, as a 26-year-old footballer, Xia was selected to be on the Chinese Mountaineering Team. After training for months, he was admitted to the climbing team of 20. However, the attempt failed at 8400m because of strong winds. During the retreat, one of the teammates lost his sleeping bag. Xia insisted on offering him his own because he was in better shape, and that he could jog at minus 20 degrees Celsius without wearing a down jacket.

时间倒转回到1975，夏伯渝的命运之年。当时26岁的夏伯渝曾是足球运动员，被选拔进入国家登山队。经过几个月的训练，他成为参与珠峰登顶的20位突击登山队员之一。那次冲顶尝试因为连夜大风，在海拔8600米的地方失败。下撤过程中，一位队友的背包掉落，没有睡袋。夏伯渝自认为体质好，能在零下十几度的营地不穿羽绒服跑步，便把睡袋让给了队友。

夏伯渝曾是足球运动员 Xia Boyu was a footballer when he was young.

Unfortunately, he was severely frostbitten and lost his feet. He was lying in a hospital when he heard that nine of his teammates had made it on the radio. "I should have been one of them," he had thought.

没想到，他却因此严重冻伤，失去双脚，在病床上听闻了9名中国登山队成员成功登顶珠峰的消息。“我应该在他们当中。”夏伯渝不甘心地想。

Everyone thought the incident would have ended Xia's career as a climber, before a prosthetist said to him: "You can live normally, even climb the mountains again with prosthesis."

所有人都认为夏伯渝的登山生涯到此为止了。但一位假肢专家鼓励他：“装上假肢还能正常生活，甚至继续登山，”

Xia was encouraged. He began to train his leg muscles in bed with sandbags. After trying on the prosthesis, he rode a bicycle for more than an hour to go to work, and climbed Beijing's Fragrant Hills three times a week. The prosthetics were eventually upgraded from straps and planks to more professional equipment. He even won many medals in sporting events like National Games for the Disabled. It seemed that he was once again close to achieving his dream.

这句话极大地鼓舞了夏伯渝。没装假肢的时候，他在病床上绑着沙袋锻炼腿部肌肉。装上假肢之后，他每天骑车一个多小时上班，每周一三五还要去登香山。随着时间流逝，他的假肢也从刚开始简易的皮带木板，变得越来越专业。因为出色的身体素质，他在全国残疾人运动会等赛事上斩获不少奖牌。梦想似乎越来越近了。

But in 1996, fate dealt another blow to Xia. He was diagnosed with lymphoma. Yet he refused to remain hospitalized as a cancer patient. Instead, he insisted on going for chemotherapy by bicycle. 

可1996年，生活的打击再次到来。夏伯渝被查出淋巴癌。但他坚决不住院，要远离医院里苦大仇深的环境，坚持自己骑着自行车往返化疗。

In 2008, Xia returned to the Everest Base Camp (EBC) as an Olympics torch bearer, and felt the peak calling to him again. So he had the prosthesis adjusted and trained on Mount Yuzhu in Qinghai Province and Muztagh Ata in Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region.

2008年，夏伯渝作为奥运圣火的传递者，重新回到珠峰大本营。他再一次感到想要攀上珠峰的冲动。于是，他去假肢厂调整假肢，去青海玉珠峰、新疆慕士塔格峰锻炼。

"The prosthesis has no sense of touch. You don't know what you are stepping onto," says Xia. "You could totally get stuck in the snow. I had to compact it with my knees before stepping on it." It was very dangerous and exhausting under oxygen-deprived conditions.

“假肢首先就是没有感觉，你踩在什么地方，它不知道。”夏伯渝说。“雪深的地方，撑不起来假肢。我还要用膝盖把雪压实了再踩上去。”在极度缺氧的高山上，这些动作不仅危险，还耗费更多体力。

By 2014, Xia felt prepared to take on the challenge of Mount Qomolangma again. "But I had such bad luck." A major accident had the Nepalese government canceled all peak climbing plans for that year.

到2014年，夏伯渝觉得自己准备好了重返珠峰。“但我的运气实在是太差了。”因为一场重大山难，尼泊尔政府取消了当年所有的登峰计划。

In 2015, Xia set off again. That time, an 8.1-magnitude earthquake hit Nepal when he was at EBC. They narrowly escaped the avalanche caused by the quake. 

2015年，夏伯渝再次出发，却在珠峰大本营遇到8.1级大地震。他所在的营地与地震引发的雪崩擦身而过。

In 2016, it seemed that he could finally go for the peak, but a sudden blizzard stopped them at a distance of only 94 meters from the top. He would've fought for it, but he felt that he had no reason to risk the lives of his guides, who were young men in their twenties and thirties. So he decided to retreat.

2016年，夏伯渝终于得以向峰顶进发。可距离峰顶只有94米的时候，暴风雪突如其来，眼前白茫茫一片。他本来想拼一把，但想到向导们都还是二三十岁的小伙子，不能让他们也赔上性命，他最终决定下撤。

"Every time I told myself that 'this is the last try.'" But he kept breaking his promises to give up. 

 “每次登山的时候，我都说，这是最后一次了。”但一次一次地失败，夏伯渝就一次一次地食言。

In May 2018, after several setbacks, Xia began his fifth try with his team. "I was very familiar with the route to the peak, and was always prepared for the difficult parts of it," he says.

2018年5月，几经周折，夏伯渝和他的团队第五次从珠峰大本营出发。“登珠峰的路线我早就背得滚瓜烂熟了。”他说，“所以每到一处，碰到那些很难走的地方我心里都有准备。”

Considering Xia's physical strength, the guides set up a temporary Camp 5, which made him feel somewhat uncertain. The camp was set beside a cliff, and it took him an extra half hour for the detour. "Had I known the condition around the camp, I would've gone directly for the peak."

但向导为了他的体力考虑新设的C5营地让夏伯渝心里打鼓。营地就在悬崖边上，每次上下要花费夏伯渝半个小时。 “早知道营地附近那么难走，我就直接往上冲了。”

Finally, after 6 days of climbing, the peak was within grasp. "When I saw the peak, I thought: 'Well, this is the place I've been longing for in 40 years’," says Xia. He took photos and stayed in his dream location for 10 minutes, before they had to retreat from a snowstorm. By that time, Xia's legs were too swollen to wear the prosthesis. When they were 10 minutes away from Camp 2, the guides had to fetch the spare prosthesis for him to finish the trip.

终于，耗时6天，珠峰就在眼前。“我看到峰顶的时候，心想，哎呀，这就是我四十年来一直努力的地方。”夏伯渝说。在梦寐以求的峰顶待了10分钟，拍了几张照片，所有人因为突降的暴风雪不得不立刻下撤。这时，夏伯渝的腿已经肿得穿不上假肢。回C2营地最后十分钟的路，多亏向导先赶回去拿了备用假肢，他才顺利走完。

In spite of everything, he reached the top on his own legs. 

但他终究凭着自己的双腿完成了这次登顶。

Since he first left his footprints on Mount Qomolangma at 8,600 meters, he has finally finished the last 244 meters 43 years later. With frostbitten cheeks and fingers, he laughs: "That was for the last time…this year!"

从第一次将足迹留在8600米时算起，珠峰这最后244米，夏伯渝走了43年。带着冻伤的脸颊和发黑的手指，他开怀大笑：“今年，这是最后一次了。”

Cameraman: Wang Yunfei

Film editor: Liu Xinyue, Lu Gengrui

Story written by: Zhu Siqi

English editor: Henry Weimin

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