Comrades, pay a visit to Beijing's communist canteens

Fancy some socialism with your supper? Head to one of these houses of Mao

Culiang Renjia

This hearty Dongbei restaurant, whose name roughly translates into 'coarse grains family', is prized for its appropriately fuss-free and comforting farmyard dishes. The communist-themed chain has a few branches around Beijing; the Dongsi Shitiao one is constantly raucous, made all the more lively by the sounds of the old school enamel crockery clinking at every table.

The food is decent but the theme is better: this is kitsch communism, turbocharged. A huge portrait of Mao and a colourful village painting confront you as soon as you enter the restaurant. Downstairs, the Mao-mania continues, as do various garlands of dried chillis and garlics and colourful wall hangings depicting various communist themes. Cu Liang delivers on food and atmos – whether it fosters the revolution remains to be seen.

The People's Socialist Canteen

If it’s hardcore socialism you’re after, The People’s Socialist Canteen is about as close as you can get in restaurant form. The entrance foyer is flanked by portraits of Marx, Lenin, Stalin and the like, with a central and doubly huge Mao hung over the dining room doorway. Once you’re in, hefty plates of Dongbei cuisine await, all served on chirpy enamelware, decorated with yet more Mao. This is the perfect place to (re)read The Communist Manifesto and ponder the shackles of man over a greasy pile of veg.

Mao's Home Restaurant

Any restaurant with the word 'jia' in the name suggests that it serves food of a cosy, homespun nature. Perhaps it’s no surprise that Mao Jia Fandian, an homage to the Chairman’s home, doesn’t quite play by the book, but a visit to this spot in the financial district is surely a visit to the least cosy restaurant in Beijing. Situated morosely on the fourth floor of an office building, the décor of this place – pretty much deserted on a weekday lunchtime – manages to make grey look like it’s having a sad day.

The only interruption to the bleakness is a huge, gold bust of Mao in the entrance hall, flanked by a well-maintained shrine of burning incense, fruits, paper money and plastic incarnations of hongshao rou, duojiao yutou – two of the Chairman’s fave dishes – and a plucked, uncooked chicken. It’s probably only worth coming here to pay your respects to the incongruous Mao merch, but should you choose to dine here expect soulless, oily and overpriced Hunanese food, served in surprisingly pleasant ceramics.

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