Cosy Italian eats at Bistro 108's new trattoria La Villa

Intimate Italian trattoria in Liangmaqiao

The team behind cosy French eatery Bistro 108 has recently opened an intimate trattoria next door, and we dig it. La Villa’s sleek vibe is apparent as soon as you walk in: vintage hangings adorn the walls, while high banquettes and walnut hardwood tables are decorated sparingly. Looking to the menu, it seems to promise much of the simple class that made Bistro 108 such a favourite.

We start with dough puffs with Parma ham (59RMB), a simple but standout appetiser. The balls are crisp at the edges, soft in the middle, and served generously, as are the slices of ham and accompanying blocks of parmesan, all of which are presented on a bed of rocket. The marriage of ham, cheese and fried bread is, as ever, a holy one, although unfortunately after a few bites the dish becomes a bit dry.

Next we assess the list of pastas – a homemade lasagna here, a gnocchi with mozzarella and tomato sauce there – but it's the Napoli style bolognese with slow-cooked pork ribs (95RMB) that's the winner. Eating this, your setting suddenly seems less Liangmaqiao car park and more open-aired eatery in Naples during the cool autumn months. Eating this, your setting suddenly seems less Liangmaqiao car park and more open-air Neapolitan eatery in autumn. Boasting a spot-on pasta-to-sauce ratio with the tufoli cooked perfectly al dente and the sauce rich with tender pork, it’s a must. Pair it with a 25RMB glass of house red, white or rosé, and pat yourself on the back for having found something approaching a bargain.

The 95RMB for the codfish con brodo, however, feels a tad overpriced, mainly because the star of the dish was, in fact, the brodo – the broth. Garnished with finely diced cucumbers, crunchy carrots and onions, the broth was surprisingly light and refreshing considering that the menu lists it as being simmered with prosciutto. On the pizza side of things, we back the beef carpaccio pie (128RMB) for its generous toppings, and the sharp two-cheese coating.

The dessert section of the menu consists of two famous Italian desserts, homemade tiramisu (45RMB) and panna cotta (35RMB). The panna cotta was silky smooth and firm, with a gentle wobble. Sandwiched between a chocolate sauce top and blood orange syrup bottom, it was, however, a sweetness overload.

The Caochang location has long been a funny one – a convenient spot for local diplomats but perhaps not worth diverting for. With the arrival of La Villa alongside Bistro 108 and a few other trendy cafés though, we reckon the area could become a more appealing weeknight choice.

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