Leonard of Infatuation Osaka talks f&b ventures and fusion menu

Born in Hong Kong but raised in Toronto, Canada, IT-consultant-turned-food-fanatic and former-michelin-rated-restaurant-owner Leonard Ngan runs innovative izakaya joint Infatuation Osaka, fusing Japanese flavours with French, Italian influences and serving up one-of-a-kind izakaya dining experience.

An innate passion for food and frequent travel to Japan has led to a fascination with izakaya cooking and dining experience. For this edition of Founder Story, we spoke to the restaurateur about his f&b ventures, culinary passion and how to keep up with changes. 

Q: What inspired you to jump into the f&b industry?

A: Since I was a kid, I always loved food and experimenting with different tastes. I used to watch these cooking shows and tried to make food at home using really crazy ingredients. My father also has a passion for fine food so I was fortunate to have enjoyed different fine dining experiences when I was little.

Q: What’s the biggest challenge along the way?

A: The biggest problem when I came here to Beijing back in 2006 is the language I think. Because I didn’t know anything about Mandarin. My Chinese writing wasn't great. I couldn't write Chinese messages so that would probably be the biggest problem at that time.

Q: Tell us more about Infatuation Osaka and why is it unique.

A: I'd say Infatuation Osaka is a representation of my character. Like a lot of izakayas out there in Beijing, I think it has a somewhat ubiquitous appeal and lacks character of the operator.  But if you go to Tokyo, Osaka or even Kyoto, you see most izakayas are owned by small owners who would put their whole life - their pictures, achievements, and taste – into the restaurant. So for my restaurant, I’d say it’s a representation of my journey in life, from the taste, the decor, to the menu. 

Q: What makes you want to open an izakaya specifically?

A: One of the great things about izakayas is the interaction with the customers. In Japan you find that very common. The owner might start teaching you how to do different things and telling you their life story after they get a little buzzed. It's the atmosphere and the people-to-people interaction that I really like. 

Q: What sets Infatuation Osaka apart from others?

A: We try to keep things laidback and approachable while trying to experiment with different ingredients and putting our own twist on traditional izakaya-style food. 

For example, one dish is called song yu di which combines wagyu beef with foie gras and truffle. It's finished with a little bit of balsamic vinegar, Italian smoked salt, apple slice, and lemon peel to balance the taste. 

There’s another fusion dish I created which features layers of lotus root, cream cheese, and marinated salmon in a special kind of sweet miso, topped with Italian dill. We use lotus root as the base – the first part is fried with a little bit of Japanese grapefruit salt on it, and the second part of the lotus root is marinated in Japanese vinegar so the saltiness and the sourness comes together. 

Q: How do you manage to keep going as a restaurateur during tough times? 

A: I’ve been an entrepreneur for 16 years. I have to say there’s always gonna be something, whether it be a pandemic or a stock market crash. You just have to go with the flow and make the best of it. 

For me, there are so many small things I can be thankful for. I have my little baby girl, my wife and my health. I think for every situation, try to look for the silver lining and treat everything as a learning experience – for example, learn how you can better cope with stress and build up your own resilience. 

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