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How to be a Quintessential Gentleman in Shanghai

2017-06-05 ShanghaiWOWeng

The essence of masculinity is constantly challenged and redefined, what used to be seen as pompous and superfluous is now regarded as relative and necessary. Perhaps the stories of men spending more grooming time than their ‘wags’ (wives and girlfriends) may be a little off-putting, however, a face spotted with blemishes and an ill-fitting suit isn’t exactly the image of success either. This is why we have decided to explore the places and the tools available for the makings of a true gentleman, not just from head to toe, but from inside out as well.

 

HOLLAND & SHERRY



 First stop, a place where you can learn the basics before you spend your hard-earned money on any fashion faux pas. That’s right, if you live in China, you’d definitely witness a lot of expensive mistakes on the streets, and as they say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. This is why it’s always important to learn from the best before taking any risks and being the oldest British fabric merchant in the world, supplying cloth to bespoke tailors and luxury fashion houses for over 180 years, it’s fair to say you’re in good hands when it comes to 101 guidance from Holland & Sherry.

 


Housing the widest range of fabrics in Shanghai, this showroom is not necessarily a place for you to shop, but for you to observe and learn from fabric specialists, and how that translates into tailoring a perfect suit.


Credits: Peter @ Apex Manual


We were given a tour around the suave space by the dashing Regional Sales Manager of the house Josh Lane, who impressed us with some of the most precious fabrics in the world such as the Imperial Gold Collection which contains ‘vicuna,’ something rarer and more expensive than cashmere or even pure gold. 



Josh was also not kidding around when he introduced one of Holland & Sherry’s water-resistant collections, by giving us a live demonstration of  the highly water-repellent Dragonfly range they offer clients.

 


Holland & Sherry is not just a brand interested in supplying the best fabrics to their customers, they are also strongly committed to working with the best tailors to ensure their top-tier fabrics are never put to waste. This is why the brand is extremely selective when it comes to choosing the tailors who stocks their samples. In other words, seeing the Holland & Sherry brand in a tailor shop is like having a Harvard degree framed on a living room - a guarantee of quality craftsmanship.

 


Although they just opened at the end of last year, the venue has already played host to a wide range of events like trunk shows, seminars and master classes, all of which are slated to continue in the future.  Until then, we suggest you find yourself a tailor who has earned the trust of this brand and become a part of this old boy’ network.

 

Address: Holland & Sherry, No. 1 Lane 22, Fumin Lu, Shanghai 200040

 

ROJO



Now that you’ve learned about some of the best raw materials for a good suit, it’s time to actually make a gentleman’s uniform here with ROJO Clothing, a brand that offers premium tailored suits without breaking the bank. 



Founded in Shanghai by Irish entrepreneur Ronan Kent, the brand is focused on becoming a lifestyle that incorporates all the necessities of the modern gentleman from head to toe. 



Proudly sponsored by Chivas Regal blended Scotch Whisky, ROJO Clothing has started a weekly Saturday pop-up store in ATG (Above the Globe) bar in Jing’An. We were invited by Ronan to come visit and see where the magic happens, and by the first glance (and first smell) we’re certain this is the posh ‘man-cave’ every guy could benefit from visiting. 



The moment you go through the main entrance, you’re immediately greeted by a member from the ROJO clothing team who will offer you a glass of Chivas 18 before leading you over to their vast fabric selection station. Carrying a wide range of designs and colors, the brand also boasts a surprisingly affordable price range, starting from RMB 2500 and up with their 5-tier suit range.



It’s no surprise that this place is filled with guest appointments judging from the exclusive and premium, yet affordable services people get from their suits. We were lucky to catch a glimpse of how the entire finalizing process was done from Leo Chang, a longtime customer of ROJO Clothing.


Leo Chang, Director of Operations, Otium Coaches


If weren’t believers before, seeing Leo try on his new suit and have his every concern addressed convinced that ROJO Clothing is not just another good tailor shop, they’re the real deal.



What thrilled us the most about ROJO is the energy and tenacity they have, and this brand is expanding to bespoke men’s shoes, bespoke bags, men’s skincare and even womens’ wear. We absolutely cannot wait to come back again and see the new divisions of this effervescent brand.

 

Address: 7/F, 1013 Beijing Xi Lu, near Jiangning Lu, Saturday 9am-5pm

 

SUIT & TIE BY BEN KOO



If the manners do indeed make the man, then the shoes will surely tell you what to expect. There’s a good reason why military generals will often emphasize impeccable cleanliness of their soldiers’ shoes; how you take care of them says a lot about one’s discipline and determination in life. But what the military might have left out is the importance on individual style and comfort on your soles, which is why we stopped by at Ben Koo to learn about the niche market of bespoke men’s shoes. 



Being a fourth generation Shanghainese shoemaker, Ben Koo is the first in his family to start a line of 100% handmade shoe-tailoring service whereby each pair of bespoke shoes takes 20 days to complete. Customers will get their bare feet specifically measured before choosing from a wide-selection of colors, designs and material to construct their desired pair of shoes. 



What really convinced us about this place is the attention to detail they show with their products, whereby customers are required to come back to the store 10 days later for a shoe-fitting to see whether the comfort level and movement of their prototype is adequate before the final touches and extra details are added. 



Such a level of precision is rare, especially in the field of shoe-making, it’s no surprise then that the brand has been rapidly expanding across China, with 3 stores in Shanghai alone. Although a price point of RMB 2500 for a pair of shoes might seemed a little over the top, quality craftsmanship with individualized precision is worth every RMB. We strongly suggest you ditch the Gucci and get something here at Ben’s,  because a true gentleman knows how important it is to invest in what carries you around.

 

Address:  394 Chang Le Road (Nearby Mao Ming South Road)

 

CROQUE-MONSIEUR



When a man is equipped with a good suit and some basic knowledge about what they’re wearing, it’s time to make some final touches to complete the gentleman image. Neckties may be common and essential for the daily formalities, but let’s not forget that bow ties are the ones for special occasions and also the accessory to have if you want to steal the thunder and stand out from the crowd.


Bowties RMB 260 each


Whether you want to prep yourself up for a black-tie event, or let loose and have fun at a garden party, choosing the right fabric and print of a bowtie is crucial and can make or break your presence. 



Croque-Monsieur is a French brand specializing in hand-made bow ties that use fabrics from all over the world such as Japanese cotton and British liberty fabrics. Founded by Mathilde Guilvout, the brand is based in Shanghai and only makes limited pieces. They even give each of their bow-ties a French name to exemplify the kind of personality you want to portray. 



We know it might seem a little cheesy to don a bow during the weekends, but it’s also the fearlessness and bravery every successful man should own. After all, only the ones who made it can say “I’m right, you’re all wrong!” Perhaps it’s wise to start practicing by owning a loud, whimsical bow-tie and make your fashion statement heard.

 

Address:

Atelier Fusari (tailor shop): 47 Shaoxing Road, near Shanxi South Road, Xuhui district.

C’est si bon (design store): Ferguson Lane, Wukang Lu

 

DOC GUTHRIE’S BARBER SHOP

 

Credits : Brandon McGhee

 

Fashion and style aside, it all completely goes to waste if you have disheveled hair or are growing an endangered rain-forest on your face. Perhaps it’s time we bring you to the next stop of your gentleman journey, how to comb and shave like a real man. 



Within the glitz and glamour of Shanghai, the city seems to be over-saturated with fancy salons and parlors where they measure individuals by the car they drive or the designer brands they don upon arrival. 



Yet there is hardly a place a man can go to be freed from all that nonsense more exemplary and down to earth than a barber shop.  



Shanghai’s traditional western barber shop for men, Doc Guthrie’s is the mecca that offers a dying art of no-frills straight-razor shaves and precision clipper cuts.

“We treat everyone the same, for no gentleman is more or less special,” says Dylan Byrne, owner of Doc Guthrie’s. Indeed the vibe in distinctly manly and straightforward, their Pudong branch reminds us of a 60’s Brooklyn barbershop with a touch of crisp sophistication.


Credits : Brandon McGhee


When they use the word ‘authenticity,’ it’s not for show or style points. All their equiptment is 100% functional, including a large tub of blue ‘barbicide,’ a traditional disinfectant solution used to sanitize shaving equipment. You’re definitely not going to see this level of western hygiene implemented in many places around the city. According to the head barber here, Anna Elliott, hygiene is the top priority when it comes to putting a blade on your skin and unfortunately in China, that’s a matter that is too often ignored. 



Our editor Ryan decided to say farewell to his facial hair, opting for a straight-razor shave, the way Anna placed a hot towel onto Ryan’s face and skillfully folded it in a piece of origami, we couldn’t help but think of that scene in the Godfather movie… luckily Ryan’s fate turned out much better.



Being the educator of the heritage brand ‘Wahl Clippers,’ the delicate and precise manner of Anna’s technique was evident from the get-go. She expertly lathered, shaved and oiled every shavable part of Ryan’s face and neck. When we asked Anna for what advice she’d offer every gentleman, she strongly emphasized the importance of knowing how to shave properly and ensure you know what products to use on your face before, during and after.


“When a man is having his hot towel straight razor shave, he should be able to tune out and have some quality time for himself. It’s also fair for the gentleman’s barber, as this moment is a treat for a man, and an intimate bond for the barber to make with the client.”


What Anna explicitly warned the gentleman wannabes is to make sure the hygiene standards are high whenever they treat themselves to a shave, if in doubt, always ask and clarify. Also, i 45 33825 45 15288 0 0 4640 0 0:00:07 0:00:03 0:00:04 4639t’s important to ditch the mobile, close your eyes and take your time when you’re getting a single blade on your face. After all, the movie Sweeney Todd has taught us a lot about what to be wary of when it comes to health and safety with traditional shaving.

 


Ryan's take on the experience: “I really enjoyed the entire process! They offered me a beer or a whiskery beforehand (I took the beer with all the giddy enthusiasm of a kid let out of school early). They explained what they were doing every step of the way. I looked weird as shit afterwards because I haven’t clean shaved my face in years, but I got a ton of compliments afterwards and I didn’t feel like such a slob anymore. 10/10 would do it again.


 

Before we left this old school barber, we were offered some of these products as a guideline to our basic gentleman’s grooming.

 

Rule 1: The triple B, Brush, Bowl, Boil. Use the hottest water to soak your face towel in so that your hair follicles are properly softened and pores fully opened. Take a clean shaving brush and bowl to whip the lather up and brush gently to your chin in a circular motion

 

Rule 2: Just like the same philosophy of real estate, location, location, location. It’s extremely important to locate your face and moisturize, moisturize, moisturize. Always make sure you are using a moisturizer that doesn’t contain any alcohol so that it doesn’t sensitize or dry up your skin. Moisturizing with a pre-shave oil or cream will protect your skin and keep it smooth and even, so if you see blood bits on your shave, blame it on your lack of moisturizer.

 

Rule 3: Before you finish your shaving deed, make sure you close up those pores with a cold towel and a good non-alcohol astringent so that bacteria does not get inside you.

 


Address: Kerry Parkside Hotel, 1833 HuaMu Lu, FangDian Lu

Tel: 1312-256-0798

 

STRAIGHT UP RAZORS

 


“From my drawing board into your bathroom.”


This is not a quote you hear often, after all, who would associate works of art with the place we urinate in? But if you think again, the bathroom is also the most intimate space in our daily lives and so it is only right for a true gentleman to add a piece of art into what he uses to shave and clean himself with.

 


This is why we have led you to your next stop of our little gentleman 101 tour in the hands of Michael Gora, owner and founder of straight up razors. The brand's main focus is to create bespoke pieces of shaving equipment and shaving kits in timeless designs which includes razors, brushes and stands. 



What fascinates us the most about this brand is their passion of restoring antique pieces of shaving equipment. Who would have known that antiquity and history is present within the chin and stubble of a man. The next time you hear your friends bragging about their hobbies of collecting coins or stamps, throw them a yawn and say it's a has-been, because collecting antique razors is a whole new level of niche and sophisticated.



It might seemed a little overwhelming to your pocket to spend RMB 1249 for a shaving set, but nothing beats the feeling of holding on to something with substance like a piece of black sandalwood and stainless steel with your initials on it (+300RMB). 



These shaving kits are 100% handmade to a high extent, and designed to last for the long-term. There is nothing more touching and poignant than the thought of passing on your shaving kit to the next generation of sons and their children.


Just when you see your mates shaving with their Gillette's and Phillips, be sure to bring out your personalized straight up razors and show them how a real boss cleans up his face.

Website: www.straightup-razors.com

 

BABOR

 

You heard the barber! It’s time to follow orders of laying all those lotions and potions before we get the lumps and bumps during the shave. Besides the comfort of smooth shaving, having clear and smooth skin is a healthy image you want to wear unless you want to look like a pre-pubescent smelly kid with the pimple padded face. Last time we checked, no boss in Forbes had acne, so money is still the best lotion here for success. This bring us to the final stop of gentleman 101, men’s skincare and the steps needed for that ‘made it’ skin.


Being one of the most scientifically researched skincare brands, Babor is the one to trust when it comes to taking care of your facial features. Manufactured in Germany using all-natural ingredients and Eco-friendly recyclable glass jars, the brand started making skin look beautiful ever since 1956 by founder Michael Babor. The quintessential gentleman we have in mind is one who is jet-setting around the world and looking important at all times, so here are some must-have, hassle-free products to pack your suitcase with wherever you go.

 

Enzyme Cleanser


Ever pissed about the annoying customs in the airports with their super anal restrictions on liquids? This is the time the gentleman in you have to step up and rise from the modern restrictions by using a powder foam facial cleanser. Not only does it cleanse, it also exfoliates your skin which is a perfect 2 in 1 step to get rid of that shiny face and prep for your pre-shave regimen.

Thermal Spray


The stereotypical image of toning is when girls would pour liquid on cotton pads and swipe all over, well this is why you need a much faster method with the Thermal Spray Toner. Extracted from the hot springs of the Aachen Spring in Germany, this refreshing toner helps to calm your skin buggers down after a hot shave or a good scrub on the skin. More importantly, it helps you to tighten those pores without the hassle of cotton pads, just a spray across the face and body and you are good to go.


Dynamic Face Moisturizer and Energizing Age Preventive Gel-cream


A day and night combo to finish your facial routine with, dab the dynamic face moisturizer during the day for that glowing complexion. The texture is also somewhat lighter and more comfortable as a daytime dab especially if you have a phobia reagrding breakouts and acne. While the energizing age preventive gel cream is perfect as a sleeping pack for nighttime. The gel texture gives a super light finish to the skin while providing endless nourishment and suppressing those frown lines and wrinkles to surface. All in all, this is the yin-yang balance you want to apply on your face to appear cool as a cucumber.

 

Note: Exclusively for Shanghai WOW! readers, the mention of product code PDCredits: Peter @ Apex Manual


READER DEAL

WOW! readers will be entitled a 25% discount for all Babor products in SkinCity 5.5. Limited to 60 days upon published date of this article


Address: SkinCity5.5. Jing’an Dagu Center, 476 Dagu Road, near Shimen Yi Road, Jingan District Shanghai.

Tel: 021-63401235

Wechat: skincity 


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