“引爆世界的不是原子弹，而是比基尼”——从布基尼到比基尼，扒一扒泳装演变史
关注欧洲新闻的同学可能知道，最近整个欧洲都在为穆斯林妇女是否有权在海滩上传布基尼而撕哔【bi——】，法国甚至直接下了禁令，禁止穆斯林女士在海边公共场所穿着布基尼。
那么，闹得风风火火的布基尼到底是个什么鬼？
布基尼，burkini，就是布卡罩袍burqa↓和比基尼bikini这两个词的合体。布卡罩袍，是一种从头到脚裹得严严实实的，连眼睛部分都有薄纱网遮盖的罩袍。
布基尼是由头巾、束腰外衣、裤子组成的，它长这样——
额，虽然听起来和比基尼很像，可这完全是比基尼的反义词啊。
什么叫世纪相遇，这才是——
看到这个布基尼，小编今天想给大家扒一扒泳装的演变史，看一看它是怎么越变越少越露越多的。
18th Century：
18世纪：
Although sea bathing was fashionable in the 18th century, it was considered proper to keep the skin white and untouched by the sun. This 1797 Gallery of Fashion print shows two ladies protected by face-shading bonnets, shawls and gloves as they approach a group of bathing machines, a sort of cabana on wheels. Ladies were known to sew weights into the hem of their smock-like bathing gowns to prevent the garment from floating up and showing their legs. Modesty ruled over fashion.
尽管在18世纪去海边游泳是件时髦的事儿，但女人们还要考虑怎么免于日晒。1797年的时装展印本上，两个女人用头纱罩住脸，裹着围巾带着长手套朝更衣车——一种带轮子的小木屋——走去。那时候的姑娘们都把罩衫一般的泳衣的边给缝紧一些，以免下水游泳的时候衣服飘起来漏出大腿。那是保守打败时尚的年代。
ruled over：统治，支配
布基尼跟这遮的一样多吧，这也算是另一种形式的“布基尼”吧，不过觉得图片中的“泳衣”要更好看一点。。
Regency Era：
摄政时期：
The early 1800s marked the beginning of a revolution in swimwear when women flocked to the beaches for seaside recreation. An 1810 fashion magazine describes the proper attire:
19世纪早期女人们走向沙滩的行为引起了泳装的变革。1810年的一本时尚杂志所描写的泳衣正确着装：
"A gown of white French cambric, or pale pink muslin, with long sleeves, and antique cuffs of thin white muslin worn over trowsers of white French cambric, which are trimmed the same as the bottom of the dress. A figured short scarf of pale buff, with deep pale-green border, and rich silk tassels; with gloves of pale buff kid; and sandals of pale yellow, or white Morocco, complete this truly simple but becoming dress."
“一件白色的法式麻布或者淡粉色的棉布罩衫，有着长长的袖子。法式麻布做成的裤子有着白色棉布做成的老式裤边，这样的边在裙底也可以用。淡黄色的华丽围巾，有着深浅不一的绿色镶边，下边还吊着丝绸穗子，配的手套是嫩黄色的，凉鞋也是淡黄色或者摩洛哥白色。这样一套泳装搭配起来非常简单而且相当合身。”
becoming：合适的，适当的
这。。不算泳衣吧。。以现在的眼光来看，比正装还正装。
Mid-19th Century：
19世纪中期：
In the mid-19th century bathing dresses covered most of the female figure. These garments were highlighted in Godey’s Lady’s Book in 1864. the long bloomers exhibit the influence of Amelia Bloomer’s innovative ideas for women’s clothing. The ”turkish” pants and “paletot” dresses are made from a heavy flannel fabric which would surely weigh down the swimmer.
19世纪中期的泳衣把女士们的曲线遮的严严实实的。在1864的Godey’s Lady’s Book一书中有过对Amelia Bloomer设计灯笼裤的详尽描写，这种裤子影响久远。这种“灯笼裤”和“宽外套”是由特别重的法兰绒做成的，绝对能把游泳的人“拖下水”。
穿这衣服游泳，绝壁溺水。手动再见。
Bathing Machine：
更衣车：
At ocean resorts where the water was very shallow near the beach, people undressed in little houses on wheels, which were drawn out into deep water by horses and hauled back to the shore when the bath was finished. At the larger resorts hundreds of these carts were seen in the water at a time. The broad wheels hardly made an impression on the firm, white sand of the beach.
海滩边的水域水往往都很浅，人们光着身子待在这种带轮子的小屋子里，由马匹拉去深水区，等洗完澡后，再由马匹再拉回来。在一些大的海滩上，同一时间经常能看到数百个这样的更衣车。更衣车的大轮子很难再粗粝的白色沙子上留下印记。
The bathing machine allowed a modest Victorian woman to spend the day at the beach in complete privacy. After the horse would haul the cabana into the ocean, the 19th century woman would change from her layers of petticoats and dress into another layer of swimwear. Later a hood was added to the contraption to allow the female in a soaking wet flannel dress to emerge from the water unseen.
更衣车可以让这些维多利亚时期的女人们即使待在沙滩上都可以保持完全的隐秘。在马匹把更衣车拖向海水中后，女们会脱下繁琐复杂的裙装换上泳装，再罩上头纱，就可以在一些别人看不见的海面上穿着她们湿漉漉的法兰绒泳衣玩耍了。
城。。会。。玩。。
1890's：
这组年轻的姑娘们正穿着19世纪90年代的泳衣享受日光浴呢，她们穿着典型的那个时代的泳装，黑色及膝裙，海军领，有着宽松的灯笼袖和缎带蝴蝶结。这些泳装带有典型的装饰品，如黑色长袜，绑带凉鞋以及新颖的帽子。
Fancy Beach Shoes
华丽的沙滩鞋
In the late 1800s and early 1900s, bathing suits were typically accessorized with long black stockings, lace-up bathing slippers, and fancy caps. Bathing slippers were very necessary, especially on stony beaches to protect from broken glass, oyster shells and pebbles that could cut or bruise the feet.
19世纪末20世纪初，泳装都配有典型的黑长袜，绑带凉鞋，以及华丽的帽子。沙滩鞋是非常必要的，沙滩上会有碎玻璃，贝壳，鹅卵石，穿着沙滩鞋可以使女士们的不受伤害。
bathing shoes
游泳鞋
人字拖表示不服！
1900's：
By the end of the 19th century people were flocking to the oceanside beaches for popular seaside activities such as swimming, surf bathing, and diving. The clumsy Victorian-style bathing costumes were becoming burdensome. A need for a new style bathing suits that retained modesty but was free enough to allow the young lady to engage in swimming was obvious.
19世纪末，人们纷纷涌向海边消遣娱乐，如游泳，冲浪和潜水。维多利亚时期的泳装开始变得繁重闹热。新的泳装风格依然保守但是已经给了年轻女性很大的自由，使她们可以在水里更好的玩耍。
1910's：
By 1910 bathing suits no longer camouflaged the contours of the female body. The yards of fabric used in Victorian bathing skirts and bloomers were reduced to show a little more of the figure and to allow for exposure to the sun.
1910年代的泳装不再故意弄出女性身体的虚假曲线，维多利亚时期的泳装和灯笼裤的布料边少了，更能体现女性的曲线，以及姑娘们终于可以把皮肤露在外面晒太阳啦。
1915's：
Up until the first decades of the 20th century, the only activity for women in the ocean involved jumping through the waves while holding on to a rope attached to an off-shore bouy. By 1915, women athletes started to share the actual sport of swimming with men and thus began to reduce the amount of heavy fabric used in their billowing swimsuits.
直到20世纪的头十年里，女人们去海边的唯一运动就是抓着系在船上的绳子穿过海浪。到1915年，女性运动员真正开始和男性们一起游泳，也因此，女性的泳装开始去掉那些繁琐的布料。
1920's：
Fashion history was made waves in the 1920s with styles allowing for more skin exposure. Liberated from long skirts, women of the twenties wore a sleeveless tank suit that formed to every curve and made women feel sexier than ever. They weren’t completely free yet, as there was a city ordiance that swimsuits could not be more than six inches above the knee!
20世纪20年代泳衣时尚有了大变化，露肉的面积大大的增加了。从长裙中解放出来，20世纪的女性们开始穿无袖泳衣，展示身体的每一道曲线，使女性们变得前所未有的性感。但泳装还是没有得到完全的解放，曾有一项法律规定泳衣不能短于膝上6英寸！
make waves：捣蛋，兴风作浪
看，现在法国立法禁止穆斯林妇女露太少，80年前立法禁止妇女们露太多，做女人好难==
1930’s：
Backless one piece suits during the 1930’s were all the rage, drastically transforming swimsuit styles for years to come. These suits were the first to bear some resemblance to swimwear of today.
露背一件式泳衣风靡30年代，在今后的几年里彻底改变了泳装风格。这是历史上的泳衣第一次和如今的泳衣展现出相似性。
1940’s：
The 1940s were very popular for their halter top bathing suits that promoted the sexy corset-style. In 1946, the bikini we all know and love was first introduced in Paris by French engineer Louis Réard and fashion designer Jacques Heim.
40年代特别流行的是挂脖式露背泳装，这更推进了裹身的性感风格。1946年，众所周知喜闻乐见的比基尼被设计师Louis Réard和Jacques Heim第一次引进巴黎。
图二中的女士是一位名叫米歇尔·贝尔纳迪尼（Michele Bernardini）脱衣舞娘，因为在当下没有任何一位模特愿意穿上这见比基尼，Louis Réard当时给这件泳衣打出的广告是比基尼——比世界上最小的泳装还要小，Louis Réard老年不无得意的说，1946年真正引爆世界的不是原子弹，而是比基尼。
小编觉得，这件比基尼就是放在当下也是非常非常大胆的。
1950’s：
One piece suits were still the most popular choice during the 1950s, but some did venture out and show off more skin. For the braver ladies during this time, bikinis were ideal and the trend really started to pick up. Finally, swimsuits allowed women to feel confidant and attractive, revealing a new standard of sexy.
上世纪50年代。一件式泳衣依然广受欢迎，但有一些姑娘勇于冒险开始露更多的肉。对这一时期勇敢的姑娘们来说，比基尼受到了莫大的青睐。最终，泳装使女人们变得更自信更有吸引力，展示了性感新准则。
1960’s：
The swimsuits of the 1960s were the first suits that drastically changed the way we see swim suits today. Modesty was out and liberating the skin was in. The bikini was the dominant swimsuit style, except now everything was cut a little lower. Women wanted to bear it all and for once, no one was complaining. Finally, no more limits!
20世纪60年代的泳衣是第一次从根本上改革了的泳衣，跟我们现在见到的泳衣非常相似，只不过现在的泳衣露的更多。它彻底抛弃了保守解放了身体，比基尼成为了最流行的泳装风格。女士们都想穿一次这样的泳衣，而且没有人会吐槽比基尼有什么不好！终于，泳衣不再有什么限制了！
1970’s：
The 1970s were all about high waisted bottoms and barely any coverage. Without any restrictions, designers used this time to experiment with different styles and reveal nearly every curve of the female figure.
70年代的泳装大多是高腰式的而且是能露多少露多少。没有任何限制，设计师们自由发挥设计各种不同风格的泳衣以更好的展示女性身体曲线。
1980’s：
The 1980’s were obsessed with neon and high-cut pieces that were sure to catch attention.
80年代的泳衣热衷于做成荧光色和高叉腰的款式来吸引注意力。
1990’s：
The 1990s kept the high-waisted trend that carried on from the 1980s. They also had the bikini tops with adjustable straps, almost as if they were bras.
90年代依然流行高腰款式，上半身是可调节的绑带比基尼，嗯，不过跟bra感觉差不了多少。
吉娘娘威武！
2000s：
The 2000s have been all about ultimate exposure. If you work hard for your body, why not show it off? A new one piece trend is what the Kardashian sisters are sporting. This is a one piece that leaves no curve to the imagination. Also, the boyshorts that Beyonce is wearing gives one a little more coverage while still looking very sexy.
21世纪的泳衣就是关于怎么露的，如果你很辛苦的保持身材，干嘛不露呢？新泳衣趋势就是图一卡戴珊姐妹穿的那种，这样的一件式泳衣完完全全的将女性的身材展现了出来，没有留下任何令人遐想的余地。碧昂斯穿的平角式泳衣虽然露的少点但看起来还是特别性感。
泳装从全遮到（快要）全露走了100多年，从从前的禁止露太多到如今的禁止露太少，历史总是很抓马。
而创作出下面这首诗歌的诗人，是太有远见，还是太（chou）有（bu）想（yao）法（lian）呢？
Bathing is a sport
游泳是项运动啊
Enjoyed by great and small
老少皆宜
In suits of any sort
花花绿绿的泳衣啊
Though better none at all.
不穿最好
[Anonymous, 19th-century poem]
无名氏，19世纪诗歌