Review: Boxing Cat's New Sanlitun Pop-Up
There was much abuzz leading up to Boxing Cat's entry in the Beijing craft scene in the form of a pop-up venue at the end of October, not least because it would directly face Jing-A's 1949 courtyard location in Sanlitun (and pose a threat to other nearby breweries), but also because success is somewhat superfluous to the Shanghai export given that it's now owned by the world's largest brewer, AB InBev, allowing it a measure of invincibility.
We'd advise going after 9pm if you want a party
That level of carefreeness is certainly palpable in the Boxing Cat Brewery Pop-Up, the walls of which still sport Okra's dark crimson hues and even its logos in the bathroom, which have been dutifully covered with BC decals. Once the venue starts to warm up at around 9pm, it still functions fairly well for the simple task of serving beer and snacks and, from the best as I could tell, was acting largely as a run-off space for those not drunk or motivated enough to confront the intimidating hordes at Jing-A.
Flight of six
That's not to say that Boxing Cat doesn't deserve its place based on its own merit because once you get past the setting, there's plenty to dig into, not least the thing that put it on the map in the first place: the beer.
There are 12 varieties on tap, ticking nearly every beery box, depending on your tipple of choice – IPA (Juicy), white (Hoppy Ending), pilsner (Standing 8), and stout (Imperial Louie) – as well as their Sucker Punch Pale Ale, the winner of the 2016 Asian Beer competition, and TKO, a heavier and more citrusy number that was named runner-up at the same event.
Truth be told, you're unlikely to hit a dud at Boxing Cat and given that you're spoilt for choice, it may be best to grab a flight of six for RMB 100 and narrow them down to your favorite. To keep things simple, all beers cost RMB 40 for 350ml and RMB 50 for 500ml, except for the Tripel Threat, which weighs in at RMB 50 for 350ml. Pints are RMB 35 during the daily 5-8pm happy hour, when flights drop to RMB 75.
N'acho Average Nacho
The food menu also doesn't intend to dazzle and must have been compiled with the limitations of Okra's sushi kitchen in mind (there's not a single gas stove present out back). Despite that, Boxing Cat has done well to construct a robust selection of bar food, including the highlight: a hulking pile of N'acho Average Nachos (RMB 75) covered in slow-roasted carnitas, salsa verde, sour cream, queso fresco, pickled onions, and guac. If that doesn't tide you over between pints, there are also mains like braised beef short rib quesadillas (RMB 78) and a grilled gruyere cheese toastie with tomato soup (RMB 65), the only friend you need come winter.
For sharing, go fancy and grab a plate o' cheese (RMB 98) or meat (RMB 115), which comes loaded with several types of their respective ingredients, as well as nuts, dried fruit, and pickles.
Taken around Halloween (the place is plenty clean)
Boxing Cat's pop-up location is unlikely to usurp any of Beijing's established craft beer dispensaries but it does exactly what it needs to do to provide locals with what may be their first taste of what this Shanghai brewery has to offer. This no-fuss approach to pricing and a decent happy hour is likely to get people through the door and sampling the wares. However, Beijing's craft beer competitors are likely to be watching very closely what Boxing Cat decides to do once their lease on this venue is up at the end of December. We, for one, are grateful to welcome the BC crew up north and look forward to seeing what comes next.
Boxing Cat Brewery Pop-Up
Mon-Fri 5pm-late, Sat-Sun noon-late. 1949 Complex, Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District (6593 5087)
朝阳区工体北路4号院1949会所
Photos: Tom Arnstein
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