Irish Coffees and Serenity at the Hutong-Based Wild Child Coffee
Having opened three months ago, Wild Child Coffee in the Dongcheng hutongs thankfully missed the unending mess that was the Great Brickening, delivering us an experience more akin to a hint of spring among the ruins of its surrounding neighborhood.
That's
because the founder of Wild Child Coffee got his start as a barista's
apprentice, gradually working his way up over 10 years to become the
owner of his own small coffee shop in the hutongs.
Walking into
the cozy, wood and concrete venue, you'll feel like you're entering a
friend’s home, with neat furnishings and friendly staff making Wild
Child a strong contender for your go-to daily spot for joe.
Posters
of movie stars like the late Leslie Cheung and a playlist of Cantonese
pop demonstrate the owner’s obsession with '80s Hong Kong culture,
whereas the minimalist menu is written in Chinese and English and
features coffees that range from RMB 25-30, with hand-poured coffees
costing the most at RMB 35. Though a little pricier than what we're used
to at our local chain, Wild Child Coffee makes up for the extra price
with some exquisite and delicate foam work added to each cup.
In need of something with a little extra kick, we opted for the zhongdu huanzhe (RMB
38, pictured above), literally "severe patient", a modified version of
Irish coffee in that it switches cream in for a small cup of milk,
giving it a richer and rounder feel that allowed the coffee notes and
boozy aroma to shine. The cup came with a wallop of bitterness and a
nicely balanced rich roasted flavor, thanks to the coffee beans having
been hand-roasted by the owner.
Since they were out of tiramisu at the time, we opted for a slice of chocolate cheesecake (RMB
38) instead to accompany our afternoon treat. The cake did not
disappoint as a suitable alternative thanks to its light mousse-like
texture and a sprinkling of milk powder.
Overall, Wild Child
Coffee presents those nearby with a relaxing hangout with just enough
noise seeping in from the outside – a reminder of the vivid and frenetic
nature of life in the hutongs – and represents another venue that is
helping Beijing's beloved alleyways return to form.
Daily 10am-10pm
28 Xiguan Hutong, Dongcheng District
东城区细管胡同28号
158 1130 2699
Photos: Tracy Wang
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