Niki Tang: The State of Fashion Right Now is a 'Mess'
At first glance, this year could be viewed in many ways as unexceptional, yet the first thing that struck us from conducting these interviews for The Year From Every Angle is that, by and large, 2018 was a year of progress.
The positivity and hope displayed among these seemingly disparate endeavors, including art, activism, mental health, and even the leisure pursuits, have arisen from communities quietly coalescing around a number of shared and strengthening goals and beliefs. Though some of those objectives fell afoul of the authorities, advancements over the last 12 months have laid a solid groundwork for what looks to be a fine year ahead.
Before we gaze forward, however, it’s time to read back on Beijing’s 2018 from (nearly) every angle.
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Name: Niki Tang
Title: Freelance Fashion Writer; Creative Consultant
2018 in 5 words: 21st Century Entering its Adulthood
Niki “Nirokita” Tang, one of Beijing’s hottest rising fashion editors, has found herself in the middle of a domestic industry growing at sonic speed, forcing Tang to grow up just as fast. At barely 20 years old, she has already contributed content for clients from international mammoths such as Gucci to aspiring Chinese designers; projects that helped Tang secure the title of creative consultant at EPO, an ambitious international brand making bold moves. Like many in the industry, Tang dubs the French photographer and fashion designer Hedi Slimane’s controversial Celine debut in October as one of the biggest shock moments of the year. She categorizes the backlash to Slimane’s work as largely a knee-jerk reaction by critics confronted by a designer determined to follow his aesthetics: “In today’s world, it is a very adorable thing to do.” As opposed to an exclusive, and somewhat self-indulgent ‘fashion circle’ of years past, Tang hints at an industry gradually gearing towards building a new ecosystem where “there is no mainstream, no niche, just diversity.”
In this new climate, fashion media and labels are beginning to take note of the individual. In China, there has been a rise of media outlets that introduce unconventional perspectives, such as BusinessofFashion, igniting conversations about social responsibility, identity awareness, and advancements in information technology. The thriving “WeMedia” scene – content creation by people who have decided to go it alone – also allows individuals to speak up for diversity, sometimes controversially. On the other hand, fashion labels are branching out to shape street culture and curate contemporary art shows. In this new world, it seems that the very concept of fashion is being redefined. “It is a mess,” says Tang bluntly, “but it is a good beginning nonetheless.”
Fashion is an accomplice to capitalism, brainwashing you to think about how special you are, how everything should be celebrated, while Beijing constantly tells you, 'don't take fashion too seriously, and don't take yourself too seriously.’
Tang finishes by saying, as a Beijing native, she appreciates the city’s laidbackness: “Fashion is an accomplice to capitalism, brainwashing you to think about how special you are, how everything should be celebrated, while Beijing constantly tells you, ‘don’t take fashion too seriously, and don’t take yourself too seriously.’”
This article originally appeared on the November/December 2018 print issue of the Beijinger magazine. Tap on the image above to access the full issue.
Photo: Courtesy of Niki Tang
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