A Backwater No More: Why Wukesong is Well Worth a Visit
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For
years, city center-dwelling Beijingers largely only went to Wukesong
for two reasons: for sport at the west-end neighborhood's Wukesong Arena
or for photography equipment at the vast Wukesong Camera Market. How
times have changed.
The
Wukesong Arena has been renamed several times, settling most recently
on the Cadillac Center, and music lovers now have a Mao Livehouse (more
on that via QR code below), arguably one of the best places to catch a
gig in town, while a rich crop of restaurants, coffee shops, breweries,
and more have moved in to cater to the new visitors and nearby
residents.
Here we round up our favorite gems both in and around the massive and trendy Live Hi-Up complex that make this once sleepy neighborhood well worth a visit.
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Like
the Wukesong neighborhood that houses it, it's easy to underestimate Su
Thai but to do so would be a mistake. The restaurant (which at the time
of writing has five stars on Dianping) may be housed in a dingy Holiday
Inn Express but its Thai offerings far outdo its surroundings. The
decor, for example, features Buddhist figures etched into the brick
walls, dark wood lattice dividing private tables, and intimate lighting
from the glowing lamp-like fixtures overhead. As for the food, the
crunchy shrimp spring rolls (RMB 58 for eight) and satay chicken or beef
skewers (RMB 68 for six) are especially delicious. We also recommend
the hunk of juicy broiled pork with lime sauce or the large bowl of
chicken green curry (both RMB 78) for a main. They also offer Singha for
a rock-bottom price of RMB 25 per bottle. All that and more make Su
Thai a satisfying slice of the Land of Smiles.
Plenty
of Beijing establishments strive for an easy breezy vibe. But one of
the few to literally attain that quality is Basic Element. This café,
located only a few short blocks north of Wukesong's Live Hi-Up complex,
has a sprawling floor space and picture windows that let in plenty of
light. The employees are friendly and diligent, acting as guides to the
florist with whom they share a space (an arrangement that also gives it
plenty of background color). The menu features fancy imports like Costa
Rican Geisha for a bargain RMB 39 (a price you'd never find at a more
central Beijing café). They also bottle their own cold coffees for RMB
30, serving up the first Yirgacheffe we've ever had that wasn't piping
hot.
This
café's ambiance, while not groundbreaking, is nevertheless charming.
The decor is notedly basic but benefits from a combination of spacious
tables for laptop warriors and cushier laid-back chairs for idle friends
meeting for java and a chat. Aside from lattes, Americanos, and other
standard coffees for RMB 25-30, they also have a handful of desserts
like fluffy coconut mousse (RMB 20) and mango layer cake (RMB 25).
Wukesong's
cocktail scene is as parched as Sanlitun's is saturated. In fact, Lift
pretty much goes it alone in that west-end haunt. It also stands out
from the gaudy lighting of most other Live Hi-Up bars with a design
sleek enough to rival Sanlitun's most hyped lounges. Lift occupies a
very narrow space, but that only adds to the intimacy, and the drinks
are even more appealing than the ambiance, including a refreshing and
bitter-sweet Lady Basil cocktail made with vodka, watermelon syrup,
vanilla liqueur, and basil. The Lolita's Secret, meanwhile, had a sweet
and creamy yogurt liqueur. Our only gripe: the prices are steep for
Haidian; hovering around RMB 90 for a cocktail. Lift otherwise raises us
up with its creative drinks and charming ambiance.
These
craft brewers have certainly come a long way since opening their first
Beijing west-end brewpub at Huguosi in 2013. After trying their hand in
Sanlitun with a now-defunct second location, NBeer rebounded with a
bigger and better spot in Wukesong's Hi-Up complex in 2017. And there's
little wonder why NBeer Wukesong's patio and interior are now often
jam-packed with beer lovers. After all, this pub boasts 42 taps and an
equally impressive 7,000 empty beer bottles placed around the bar. The
latter were collected by co-owner Xiao Bian'r over the past dozen-odd years, prompting us to call it a "veritable beer bottle museum" after our first visit.
The
original Pyro Pizza is a real stalwart of Haidian's restaurant scene,
and also famous because after conquering studentville with his pizzas,
owner Jade Grey then
went on to have great success with pizza behemoth Gung Ho! Pyro is the
lower-key sibling restaurant in this family (that has also birthed
popular spots like Haidian student hangout Lush) but holds its own with
creative pizzas like their chicken satay (RMB 65-180) or the
Mediterranean lamb (RMB 80-210). Just like Hi-Up neighbor NBeer, their
dozen-odd outdoor tables attract big crowds during the warm weather.
Owned
by a Shanghai corporation that split bitterly from the now-defunct
Gulou original (the former of whom went on to open a chain of live
houses across China), this Mao Livehouse at Wukesong is a fun venue that
has been gaining a lot of steam of late. Punk legends Descendents tore
up Mao's stage this past spring, while esteemed indie vets Timber Timbre
played a passionately bluesy set there not long after. When it opened in late 2017
we praised this latest Mao as a successful cross between its Gulou
predecessor and the slicker Tango 3F livehouse, and we can't wait to see
what exciting acts they attract next.
Beijing's prime venue for major musical acts, this 19,000 capacity arena played host to Fall Out Boy last year, not to mention other household names like Metallica, Bruno Mars
(back when it was called the Mastercard Center in 2014), and even
bigger draws like The Eagles in 2011. More importantly for sports fans:
the venue was completed so that it could host basketball preliminaries
and finals at the 2008 Summer Olympics, and since then it has continued
to host top b-ball matches for the Chinese Basketball Association,
including an all-star game in 2017 which attracted some 18,000
spectators.
Not
content to dominate the sweet tea market, or clog up malls around town
with their notorious queues, HeyTea has also broken into the bakery
scene, with one such store recently opening in Wukesong's Hi-Up complex.
The pastries at Hey Tea Bakery aren't as noteworthy as their tea –
think Wedome's higher-end bakery that opened last year, rather than the more delectable textures and nuanced flavors found at artisanal dessert joints.
Finally,
Beijing's biggest camera market is still standing, and still as popular
as ever. About a 10-minute walk north of the Wukesong subway station,
this multi-level mecca is the go-to spot for professional and amateur
photographers and videographers looking for a wide range of kit and good
bargains. All major brands and makes of cameras are represented here,
as well as an enormous range of photography accessories and kits
including tripods, lighting setups, camera bags, battery packs, memory
cards, and much, much more. This is a one-stop shop for camera shopping,
but the wide range of choices can be overwhelming, and almost no
English is spoken here so do your research in advance and be prepared to
haggle.
READ: Our Favorite Haunts in the Rising Northeast Neighborhood of Wangjing
Photos:
asia.uli.org, Tracy Wang, cranberriesworld.com, dianping.com, courtesy
of Pyro (via thebeijinger.com), Will Griffith, gallagher-photo.com
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