Weekend Walk: The Legation Quarter
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Weekend Walk is your guide to getting away in the city using nothing but your own two feet.
Thus far in our series, we’ve meandered past glimpses of China’s imperial past as well as the end to that past. But what about Beijing’s historical relationship with the West – particularly during the latter’s attempts at colonial conquest?Whereas Shanghai is known for its many foreign concessions, featuring a heavy amount of art deco buildings, Beijing doesn’t have much left in the way of Western-influenced architecture from its rough past. But that doesn’t mean there’s nothing left at all.
Therefore, this walk seeks to take you on a stroll through the capital’s past, especially that of the 1900s to 1920s or so. I’ve dubbed it the China Meets West History Tour.
I know I’ve mentioned Beijing Postcards quite a bit, but I do it for a reason: their grasp of the city’s history is one not to miss, so a walk headed through history is best kicked off here. Among the old photographs, map reproductions, and more you’ll find a few reprinted guidebooks from the 1920s onwards.
One decidedly Western-inspired building along Yangmeizhu Byway
Chi’enmen 23 & the Beijing Railway Museum
Head up the byway until you reach its converging point with Meishi Street, then turn north.
Meander along this lane, which is a bit crowded with tourists on most days – grab some lamb chuan’er at a branch of Huguosi Snacks if you can spot it – until you reach Qianmen Avenue. Turn east and you’ll eventually see your next two stops.
The first is the grey and white towers of the Beijing Railway Museum. Built around the 1900s, this was the OG Beijing Railway Station, before it was replaced by the present day itineration in 1950.
Right across the street from this is Chi’enmen 23, aka what’s left of the former American Legation. What was once the US consulate in Beijing – and former home of Michellin-starred restaurant Maison Boulud – is today a sort of lifestyle area home to a few shops, a hot pot joint, and popular Yunnan eatery Lost Heaven. It's also a jumping point from which to dive into…
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The Legation Quarter in its glory days
From the main entrance to Chi'enmen 23, walk east along Qianmen East Avenue until you reach Zhengyang Road. Turn north, and walk up to Dongjiaomin Lane.
The former French Post Office
An eastbound jaunt down this road with bring you past such buildings as the China Court Museum – once home to the Yokohama Specie Bank – the façade of the former Japanese Legation, and the former French Post Office.
If you look closely, you'll be able to spot some of the old street signs, like this one for Rue Hart, right outside the former French Legation
Keep heading east and you’ll reach two more buildings of significance: the former French Legation, and, diagonally across the street, the massive former Belgian Legation. This complex is said to have been built to resemble the palace of Belgium’s King Leopold II, and it doesn’t miss the mark. It’s also apparently open to tour, and even has a spot for afternoon tea.
The grand entrance gate to the former Belgian Legation
From Dongjiaomin Lane, turn north onto Taijichang Avenue and walk to Wangfujing. You may think the pedestrian street a bit overrated, but it’s a nice place to end the walk – and an opportunity to see more historic, and not so historic, connections between East and West.
Saint Joseph's Church
Along the walk from the French and Belgian Legations, you can also spy the former Italian Legation as you make your way to Wangfujing. Continue along the street and, walking further yet, you’ll find yourself in front of Saint Joseph's Church.
Nearby, there's the Beijing Foreign Languages Bookstore. Way back in the day, the shop had an upper floor filled to the brim with oddball English novels and books. That’s since been done away with, unfortunately, and in its place there are the run-of-the-mill classics and books on the CPC and Xi. It’s still nice to visit if you’re looking for a good read, though.
If you’re feeling hungry for lunch – or dinner, depending on when you end your stroll – there are options a-plenty. Just head into one of the malls lining Wangfujing to find places like Cheesecake Factory, Starbucks, Godiva and more.
READ: Weekend Walk: Zig Zag Through the Dongcheng Hutongs with this Artsy Stroll
Images: georgeglazer.com, Mirror Media, Vincent R. Vinci, Dianping, chinalinktrading.com, PBase
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