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Weekend Walk: 2nd Ring Road Temple Trek

Vincent R. Vinci theBeijinger 2021-12-26

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Weekend Walk is your guide to getting away in the city using nothing but your own two feet.

With the news that Yonghegong Lama Temple has reopened to the public on Friday, Dec 3, what better way to celebrate than with a walk dedicated to temples?

Well, not all the temples, obviously. Seeing all the temples in Beijing would call for an excursion of epic proportions.

That being said, this stroll is still an ambitious one. Keeping within the 2nd Ring Road, it goes to several different temples – and one former imperial school – before ending it all at Yonghegong.

Without further ado, it's time to get walking.

Start here: White Pagoda Temple & Temple of Ancient Monarchs


The trek begins at Exit B of Fuchengmen Station on Line 2. From here, head east to the first stop, Baita Si. Built during the Yuan Dynasty in 1271 and designed by a Nepalese architect, its official name is Miaoying Temple. But for the sake of simplicity, it's today known as White Dagoba Temple.


Red and white blend well with the colors of nature in Baita Temple


It’s easy to understand why: in the rear of the temple complex stands a massive white dagoba, aka stupa, a Buddhist shrine housing sacred relics. Unlike a pagoda, you can't actually enter a stupa, so this one is just for admiring. For some decidedly daka shots, head to the alleyway outside the eastern edge of the temple, where countless wanghong flock to take photos with the white dagoba juxtaposed with red walls.


Along this alleyway also lies a branch of Bear Brew Coffee. At the time of writing, Bear Brew is still closed for remodeling. Keep it in mind as a place for quality coffee – especially their pour-overs. The shop also has a rooftop with great views of the stupa and surrounding hutong.


An example of the green glaze tile roofs in the Temple of Anicent Monarchs


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Next, head out from the alleyway or temple and continue east a few meters to the next stop, the Temple of Ancient Monarchs. Built in the 1500s during the Ming Dynasty, this temple, if you haven’t already guessed, was meant for paying homage to past emperors and officials deemed wise in their methods of ruling and doling out laws.


Up close and personal with a door in the Temple of Ancient Monarchs


The temple consists of seven shrines honoring over 180 emperors. Plus, the roofs are covered in green glazed tiles. In  Chinese culture, green signifies health, prosperity, and harmony.


1

Yong’an Temple & Beihai Park

After basking in the former glory of China’s past rulers, it's on to Beihai Park. To get there, head eastbound once again along Fuchengmen Inner Avene until it ends at Huangchenggen Street. From here, turn south until you’ve reached Xi’anmen Street, which will become Wenjin Street, and take you to the entrance of Beihai Park, home to Yong’an Lama Temple.


The entrance to Yong'an Temple

Built in 1651, Yong’an Temple leads up to another massive white dagoba and commanding views of the surrounding lake.


After exploring, you could come back the way you came, but considering Beihai is great to explore any time of year. It's nice to take a northbound stroll on the east side of the lake, taking it all in. Plus, see if you can catch a glimpse of Mandarin Ducks bobbing on the water while walking.


A view of the white dagoba on Qionghuadao Islet, Beihai Park


Walk north into Shichahai and keep walking ‘til you’ve reached either Qianhai South Way or Wannian Hutong. Then exit onto Di’anmen Outer Avenue, close to Gulou. Then head onto Gulou East Avenue and head east again, passing by Nanluoguxiang on your way to…


1

The Confucius Temple & Imperial College

Head north along Andingmen Inner Avenue. Head to Guozijian Street and head east until you've found what the street is named after: the Guozijian.


The man, the myth, the legend, Confucius


The college was the highest place of learning during the Yuan, Ming, and Qing Dynasties.  The emperor himself would come to give lectures to students in Biyun Hall.


The entrance to the room of steles


Being as Confucius and education often go hand-in-hand here in China, it's no surprise a temple dedicated to the man himself is right next door. The thing to see here is the room of steles, which features over 180 steles engraved with the “Thirteen Classics” of Chinese literature – including the Analects of Confucius, writings of Mencius, and the Book of Changes.


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Finish Here: Yonghe Lama Temple

Out the way you came and east again to Yonghegong Avenue. Take it north to Andingmen East Avenue, then east until reaching the temple entrance.


Smoke from burning incense permeates everywhere in Yonghe Temple


Yonghe Lama Temple was originally a residence for Prince Yongzheng before he was made emperor. It was converted into a palace and then a lamasery by the Qianlong Emperor in 1744.


It's a beautiful complex in all, with prayer wheels and statues of Tibetan deities throughout. But the big draw here is a giant sandalwood statue of the Maitreya Buddha (86 feet tall!) surrounded by ten thousand small statues of Buddha.



If you fancy a bite or a drink after all that walking, head to Wudaoying. This sort-of pedestrian street is jam-packed with all kinds of restaurants – from Japanese and Thai to Spanish and Italian – and countless bars. Head here to give your feet a break, and contemplate questions of spirituality that might have arisen from all that temple hopping.


Images: Uni You


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