How to Explore Beijing's History and Avoid Crowds This Holiday
When asked why he no longer frequented a popular eatery, the American baseball legend Yogi Berra, as famous for his creative use of language as for the way he swung his bat, remarked, “Nobody goes there anymore because it’s too crowded.”
The same could be said for many of Beijing’s most famous landmarks, especially during the Golden Week holidays. While the ongoing Covid weirdness means fewer tourists will be descending on the capital, most Beijingers will also be stuck in the city looking for things to do. The usual spots – Forbidden City, Tian'anmen Square, Badaling Great Wall – will be great places to make friends. Including some very close, personal, right in your airspace, up in your grill new acquaintances.
But just because the Forbidden City and Houhai will be heaving doesn’t mean we have to abandon our dreams of getting out and enjoying a little culture and history. Some sites get a little less love than they should, while at other popular attractions, a little creative route finding means quiet spaces in otherwise thronged parks and museums. Here are a few suggestions.
The Summer Palaces
The “new” Summer Palace (Yiheyuan) is one of the top-three sites inside the city limits. On holidays, Yiheyuan can see as many as 40,000 people in a single day.
The "New" Summer Palace
Still, it’s also nearly three square kilometers (almost four times more space than the Forbidden City with half as many visitors on average) full of lakeshores, shaded forests, rocky hills, and less-traveled pathways for exploring. The crowds will be clustered on the north shore of Kunming Lake and just inside the East Gate of the park. Head to the north gate, Beigongmen, and walk along the southern and western shores of the lake. There are fewer historical sites here, but it’s still a beautiful walk with restored pavilions, gardens, and places to sit and have a picnic or a couple of cheeky afternoon cocktails. (Security at the gate tends to focus on flammable objects. I wouldn’t try sneaking in a keg, but a few personal bottles of Sips by Sal’s or Slider Nation's finest shouldn’t be a problem). Also, unlike most sites, their official WeChat account has an English-language page for reserving tickets in advance with your passport.
The nearby Old Summer Palace (Yuanmingyuan) is larger and receives fewer visitors. Most people enter the South Gate and walk directly to the ruins of the 18th-century Western-style palaces designed for the Qianlong Emperor by the Italian painter Giuseppe Castiglione and the French Jesuit engineer Michel Benoist.
And the remains of the old
Tragically, these palaces – as well as most of the other sites in this magnificent garden – were looted and destroyed in 1860 at the end of the Second Opium War by a combined Anglo-French expeditionary force. Today, the park is a solemn but beautiful place to wander along canal shores, linger amidst the ruins, and find a place to sit and enjoy a little bit of nature right in Haidian. Bonus: The park is famous for its birds, including a nesting community of black swans who regularly preen and parade along the park’s waterways (they aren’t a shy species).
Summer Palace
Beigongmen Metro Station (Line 4), Exit D, walk west 300 meters to Beigongmen Gate, the northern entrance to the Summer Palace. Tickets are RMB 30 for entry or combined options, and can be reserved a day ahead via the Summer Palace official account* (search 颐和园 on WeChat and click on 预约购票 to be taken to the ticketing page).
Old Summer Palace
Yuanmingyuan Metro Station (Line 4) is outside the southern entrance. Once inside, walk a short distance and then determine your route depending on which way the crowds are headed. Tickets are RMB 25 for adults. As with the Summer Palace, tickets must be purchased via WeChat official account* (search 圆明园遗址公园 to purchase).
The Confucian Temple
Confucius keeps a watchful eye over his temple
The Lama Temple is always crowded, and it should be, as it is one of the city’s most impressive historical and religious sites, but the nearby Confucian Temple does not get the same amount of love and interest. That’s a shame because the Confucian Temple, which pre-dates the Forbidden City by over a century, is full of history and even on busy holidays, the courtyards and halls of the Confucian Temple and adjacent Guozijian (Imperial Academy/Imperial Directorate of Education) are relatively quiet unless there is a special event or the temple is hosting one of its “Confucius Camp for Kids” programs.
It’s the kind of historical site where you can still bring a book (maybe something philosophical?) and sit under the trees and read while listening to parents explain to their kids just who this Confucius guy was and why he’s important.
Confucian Temple
Yonghegong Metro Station (Line 2 and Line 5). Book an appointment for the same day or future dates on the Confucius Temple & Imperial College WeChat official account* (search 孔子庙和国子监博物馆 and click on 预约参观 to book).
Western Hills National Forest Park
and Fragrant Hills Park
Lots of chances to escape the crowds in them hills
I know what you’re thinking. The Western Hills? During Foliage Season? On the October Holiday? Are you trying to trigger my latent Covid-related agoraphobia? Hear us out. The parks cover an enormous area, over 60 square kilometers combined. Most visitors stick to a few (very) well-trodden paths. The trick is: Keep walking. A little sweat equity pays dividends when you leave the crowds behind and start heading into what passes for “backcountry” in the park. Both parks are rich in historic sites, including temples, caves, and former imperial residences. It was a popular destination for the emperors, and in the 19th and 20th centuries, many foreign residents rented temples in the hills for weekend retreats, tea parties, picnics, and the occasional orgy. The smaller Fragrant Hills Park is more convenient to public transportation and receives more visitors. If you’re in the mood to exchange the multitudes for a bit of solitude, make the extra effort to get to the Western Hills.
Western Hills National Forest Park
and Fragrant Hills Park
The Xijiao Tramway connects the Fragrant Hills with the Bagou Metro Stop (Line 10). The Western Hills National Forest Park has several access points and is located south of Fragrant Hills Park. Tickets are RMB 10 for adults and must be booked in advance on their WeChat account* (search 香山公园服务号 and click on 门票购买 to book).
So don't let the COVID situation get you down or force you to spend an entire week at home binging House of Dragon or re-runs of The Office. Get out there, take a walk, and find your own special place to appreciate Beijing's history and culture.
* In regards to ticketing, it's best to find the official account for all spots (in search, it will pop up under "Official Accounts"), as there are a number of fake pages and mini programs that we stumbled across that look like the real deal.
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