Exploring Tai'an Li: A Slice of Old Shanghai in Beijing

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In Shanghai there is 石库门 shíkùmén -- two-story brick and wood buildings with sloped roofs -- and in Beijing there is 四合院 sìhéyuàn -- rectangular coutyards surrounded by rooms on all sides -- except, of course, when the shikumen come to Beijing. Such is the case for one renovated structure in the Hufangqiao area of Xuanwu -- a callback to a time when Shanghai's signature architecture was more common in the north.

Tai'anli was originally a residential complex when it was first built, but it's since been transformed into a public space that's now a hotspot for photography enthusiasts and Beijing's wanghong chasers. It's the perfect place for a stunning look at the capital's heritage.

The Little Shanghai in Old Xuanwu

Located on Renshou Road, the Tai'anli complex has a rich history dating back to 1915, during the Republican era. During that period, Beijing intended to construct a Western-style block in the traditional hutong area, which would encompass commercial businesses, entertainment venues, as well as residential buildings.

Tai'anli in Panorama in 2019

This ambitious project was dubbed "New Downtown" or 新市区, which can be equated to today's CBD. Tai'anli was one of the residential buildings within this block, and it remains one of the few remaining treasures that represent Beijing's modernization efforts at the time.

A peek at Tai'anli's Corner

The residential building was designed to emulate the elegant shikumen style of architecture that is commonly found in Shanghai. Over time, Tai'anli gradually transformed into a sprawling compound, losing its original charm and gradually deteriorating into an unimpressive, rundown building on the street. It wasn't until 2018 that Tai'anli underwent a much-needed renovation and was reborn as a cultural center in the neighborhood. This year, it finally reopened its doors to the public, showcasing its renewed grandeur and once again becoming a staple of the community.

Mimi Coffee & Amber Craft Beer

Following the reconstruction, Tai'anli is no longer just a small building from China's past for visitors to explore. The interior of the building is now modeled after the traditional alleyways or "nongtang" pattern found in Shanghai, with a central aisle and two rows of rooms on either side. This unique layout provides a plethora of possibilities for the space, making it much more than just a building to visit.

A new Coffee Shop on the upper floor

Mimi Coffee was the first establishment to call this place home, offering visitors a chance to enjoy their delicious drinks in the charming courtyard of the small building. Their Pineapple Americano (RMB 36) and other refreshing beverages are perfect for sipping in the pleasant spring weather.

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Another spot worth mentioning is Amber Craft Beer. This name is sure to ring a bell for craft beer enthusiasts, as it was once situated on Nanluoguxiang. Unfortunately, the pandemic forced them to close their doors last year.

Amber Craft Beer: a rebirth

The revival of Tai'anli has meant Amber Craft Beer has found a new home, with their new location situated right next to Mimi Coffee.

Theater and Art Exhibitions

In addition to enjoying drinks and coffee, there are other activities to explore in this seemingly small alley. Theater nerds will be pleased to discover a cozy space dedicated to their craft, which occasionally hosts interactive events like script readings and line memorization sessions.

Tai'anli has much more to offer beyond its modest appearance. Although the building only has seven or eight rooms, venturing up to the second floor reveals even more space to explore. During my recent visit, we came across an exhibition showcasing old family photos. However, the space is not limited to just historical displays, but art as well, with an exhibition of works by Picasso currently adorning the walls.

Nothing quite compares to the feeling of savoring a cup of coffee on a cozy afternoon at Tai'an Li!

As we wandered around the neighborhood, we couldn't help but notice that Tai'anli has transformed into a hub for relaxation, featuring cozy coffee shops, lively bars, a drama club, and impressive art exhibition halls. Although a few rooms are currently vacant, it's evident that more exciting art and cultural activities will soon fill the space.

Overlooking the bar and cafe is an exhibition space

This building's refurbishment goes beyond surface-level changes, as it now feels like a functional part of the "Hutong CBD" that existed 100 years ago. The fusion of contemporary and historical elements creates a unique ambiance that transports visitors to a different era, making Tai'anli a must-visit destination for anyone seeking a memorable cultural experience.

新市区泰安里

8-16 Renshou Road, Xicheng District
西城区仁寿路8-16号

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Images: Uni You, Wangtian

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