Restaurant Review: Asian Plus

By Tongfei Zhang

The Place
You can get most things in Shanghai, but with the exception of a handful of places, authentic Southeast Asian food isn’t one of them. Sitting pretty within the newly launched hipster food court – The Market on Aomen Lu – is Asian Plus, a hidden gem serving some really legit casual Southeast Asian eats.

Run by Chris Lin, a talented Shanghainese lady with a passion for Southeast Asian food, Asian Plus offers a short menu of classics like Hainan chicken rice, khao ka moo, kuaitiao moo and Thai salad. Having fallen in love with Thai food from her travels, Lin isn’t a trained chef – but that doesn’t stop her from running her pint-sized kitchen with quick-handed efficiency.

The Food
Hainan Chicken Rice (RMB68/half chicken; RMB130/whole) is not difficult to find in town, but few are truly good. We like the rice, which is cooked in chicken stock and further enhanced by the fragrance of pandan leaves.
The tender steamed chicken comes in a very large portion that would satisfy one very hungry diner. A swirl of sticky sweet soy sauce, spicy chili sauce and a gentle puree of ginger and scallion reconstruct the signature flavor profile of this famous Singaporean dish.

Another excellent choice is the khao ka moo (braised pork shank served with jasmine rice, RMB38).
The pork skin is slow-cooked with a fragrant five-spice sauce to the point of being lusciously soft but not falling apart. Ideal for those who appreciate the benefits of collagen in the pork skin.

Gaprow (minced beef with garlic and peppers served with jasmine rice, RMB38) sees a fried egg atop the rice and a heavily seasoned chili beef mince.
We loved the bold, spicy flavors in this dish; it’s like finally eating Thai food done right in a city where the norm is weak green curry.
The full-flavored kuaitiao moo (flat rice noodle soup with fish balls, RMB28) belies its meager price.
The broth itself is rich and aromatic without being overly salty, while a generous handful of fresh Asian herbs create a nice balance.
Food verdict: 2.5/3

The Vibe
Repurposed from its former life as a public swimming pool, The Market is a spacious hall shared by various vendors. Relaxed and welcoming, it’s a great place to have a casual lunch or a cup of coffee with friends while the natural light floods in from the glass ceiling.
Another great thing about The Market is that your fellow diners can order from different vendors – it’s not uncommon to see tables laden with dishes from several restaurants in the complex, such as Happy Buddha, Pizza by TopoExpress, Cambio Coffee, Dutch Pies and Papito Pancakes.
Vibe Verdict: 1/1

Value for Money
Perhaps the secret to Asian Plus’ success is the small size of the menu. Rather than aiming for an encyclopedia-style menu, Chef Lin concentrates on doing just a few dishes really well, steering well clear of any flavor ‘adjustments’ towards local or Western tastes.

It’s a welcome change of pace for Shanghai, where most Southeast Asian food is about as authentic as CaliBurger. Prices too are also quite un-Shanghai. Our four main dishes plus one iced lemon tea totaled RMB190.

Value for Money: 1/1

TOTAL VERDICT: 4.5/5
Price: RMB30-80 per person
Who’s going: expats and locals
Good for: casual lunch, Southeast Asian food

Asian Plus, The Market, 280 Aomen Lu, by Changhua Lu.

You May Also Like...

To leave your review, click "Read more" below.