Bar Review: The Bunker

2016-09-03 ThatsShanghai

By Betty Richardson

Themed bars: we've come to accept that they're par for the course in Asia's bar scene. The latest one to hit the block is The Bunker, a new military camp-themed hidey-hole behind The Barn by Green&Safe in Xintiandi. From the same people who brought the city trendy drinking spots like Flask and Botanist, The Bunker makes 'progressive drinks' its modus operandi, and shaking them is Taiwanese mixologist Denny Chen.
As with Botanist, The Bunker's drinks revolve around fresh elements, as opposed to conventional classics. This being the military, they've given the drinks names like 'Sour Force,' and 'Cucumber Bootcamp,' though you can also find a selection of signatures from the old Flask menu. If cocktails aren't your MOS, they also do a long list of whisky by the glass. Handy if you're not about dropping 2k on a bottle of Hibiki.

At its most interesting, The Bunker is doing things like infusing vodka with fresh seasonal fruits and herbs, seen in the sizeable 'Peach Punch' flasks (RMB95, vodka, fresh peaches, rosemary, cherry liqueur, licorice tea syrup, lemon juice, seen in prototype form below).
Also thought provoking is the monochrome 'Morning Maneuver' (RMB85), a breakfast inspired cocktail with a black tea base laced with clove, cinnamon, coffee and egg white.
On the downside, we found that some of The Bunker's cocktails are a little too small and mild for their price point. After drinking the 'Watermelon Bunker' (RMB85), 'Mission Passion' (RMB80), 'Carrot Cake Conquest' (RMB90) in quick succession, we were worryingly sober. More booze please?
As such, stick to the stronger Flask signatures or straight whiskies if you fall into the 'non-cheap date' category, which sadly, we do.

Vibe-wise, The Bunker is already a hit with the young local crowd, but not so much that you'll struggle to find a table. The noise level doesn't get above conversational, and this bar is a quality choice for the usually tourist-driven Xintiandi area.
Aim to sit at the bar or on the banquettes if you're planning on staying a while – you'll need a very padded posterior to sit on these military-esque metal stools for more than an hour. On the plus side, a good excuse to eat more?

Price: RMB80-250 per person
Who's going: young locals, Taiwanese expats
Good for: cocktails, dates, small groups, hangouts

The Bunker, 2/F, No.22, Xintiandi (North Block), 181 Taicang Lu, by Xingye Lu.