Cotton Club Remembered by the Musicians Who Made It
By Ned Kelly and Erica Martin
Shanghai jazz institution Cotton Club closed its doors for the last time on March 25, but the club lives on in the minds of the local musicians who played there, cultivating its inimitable bluesy atmosphere over the past 19 years. Below, nine Shanghai musicians recall their wildest nights and fondest memories at the club that was so essential to Shanghai's jazz scene.
1. "All I have ever wanted since I was a little girl was to be the resident singer in a blues club." - Naomi Fitch, vocals
I credit Cotton Club with being the reason that I am still in Shanghai today. I had been in this city for 2 years, and as a result of various unfortunate circumstances had fallen upon hard times. I lost my job, my visa and my apartment within the space of a few weeks and was relying on the kindness of friends to allow me and my dog to sleep in spare rooms/on couches. It was a difficult and worrying period of time, and I would absolve some of the worry by heading down to the Tuesday night Cotton Club Jam. I was hooked and it became a weekly pilgrimage. One of my best friends at the time asked me what the hell I was going to do when this final tourist visa ran out and I very specifically recall telling him “All I have ever wanted since I was a little girl was to be the resident singer in a blues club. I didn't want to be famous. I didn't care about a record deal. Just to have a regular gig in a great club. If I can get the residency at Cotton, I can stay in China and live out a dream.” They say if you vocalize your thoughts, the universe listens. The previous resident (Raina) left the club to move to the US a week later. Greg offered me the gig.
This place was like music school for me. I joined as a nervous and untrained performer. The band at Cotton looked after me like family. They nurtured me and grew me into the performer I am today. I owe a lot to Greg for taking a chance on me when I was still so raw and unpolished. I grew here. I grew the confidence to perform on stage at JZ Festival in front of thousands of people. I grew the confidence to sing on those quiet Wednesday nights to a room of three people, who were hooked on my every lyric. I also finally grew the confidence to perform in public for the first time ever a self-penned song. Progress indeed from the rabbit caught in headlights that I’d started out as.
The loyal and wonderful audience that returns to Cotton Club over and over is without a doubt part of the heart of the place, and an obvious testament to the incredibly talented musicians that grace the stage and contribute to the “home away from home” coziness. Friendships have been made from loyal and regular music lovers who were also bitten by the Cotton Club bug. That being said, one of my favorite memories has to be standing onstage, mid-song, when murmurs begin to rumble through the crowd: “Sir Ian McKellan has just arrived!” “Look! It’s him!” Greg turns to me and says, “Let’s just give him space and let him have a peaceful night and enjoy the music – don't make a fuss.” To which I immediately, still on mic, go, “Oh my fucking god, it’s fucking Gandalf!” Hahahaha. I got to sit and have a drink and a chat with him, and he was a thoroughly warm and friendly character.
This place is where my now fiancé and I had our first-ever kiss. It's a big part of our love story. We had many dates in that place. And it’s where we got engaged 3 weeks ago, when Kim proposed on stage. I never thought I was one for those public proposals for such an intimate moment in your life. But it happened with family in a place that feels like home and it was perfect just the way it was. So grateful to everyone that has been a part of that club and the beautiful part it’s played in so many of our lives.
2. "From the first day to the last, there was only music and positivity on the corner of Fuxing and Huaihai." - Eddy Lew, guitar
There have been so many wonderful nights at Cotton that trying pinpoint one that sums it all up is a daunting task. I think the thing I'll remember most is the one thing every night had in common: the band and the staff. Staff that would sing along and beat box to the music when they thought no one was watching. Staff that, when they learned their bar was closing, talked only of missing the music everyday. Staff that happily showed up before the music started and stayed long after it was over, for years. Together with the band they made a room that cared about nothing other than the music. From the first day to the last, there was only music and positivity on the corner of Fuxing and Huaihai.
3. "Plenty of tequila was consumed by everyone involved, and the vibe was really laid-back and cool, as it generally tends to be at Cotton Club." - Nick Bulavin, sound engineer
Having been around Cotton Club for 10 years, first in a listener’s capacity, and later as a sound engineer, I’ve witnessed and been a part of many memorable and some outright legendary nights. One in particular comes to mind: Jimmy Buffet was in town on some business and was recommended Cotton Club as a place to check out and hang. The band was playing as usual, and when they finished the last tune of the night, Jimmy approached Greg wondering if he could play one song. An hour later they were still onstage playing. The place filled up with a second round of the crowd (it was around 1 AM), with some people running over from Pudong to see this impromptu jam. Plenty of tequila was consumed by everyone involved, and the vibe was really laid-back and cool, as it generally tends to be at Cotton Club. I’m really looking forward to the next leg of this journey!
4. "The music was so good that during a break I got up enough nerve to introduce myself to Greg. I said, “I play harmonica.” He gave me that stare—the “I don’t know if you can really play” stare." - Dennis Argenzia, harmonica
Jimmy Buffet
I got a call from a friend who said, "I’ve got a friend in town who plays a little music. Could you take him around town and maybe see if he could play somewhere?” We met for dinner and it was Jimmy Buffet. It was a Sunday night, so I took him to a Jam night and we played a couple of songs. I then said, “If you really want to play, let me take you to the Cotton Club and we can be your backing band.” I phoned Greg ahead of time, and when we arrived he took a short break. After a few minutes of discussion, we do a 70-min set with Jimmy as his backing band on some hits like “Margaritaville,” as well as old classic rock covers and some reggae. Jimmy was floored by the musicianship he found in Shanghai, and the great club called Cotton Club. It was a memorable night that I will never forget.
Twenty One Pilots
I had them in town for a concert in July 2015. After the show, Josh Dun and I were hanging out and he said, “What do you do for fun?” I listed a few things and then said I played at this cool bar that is like a sanctuary in Shanghai. He wanted to come and see what it was all about. We showed up and he couldn’t believe this place existed in SH. After a little bit, he came up for a few tunes. The great thing was that no one in the audience knew who he was!
Michael Grim & Landau Murphy
I had an America’s Got Talent concert coming to town. The managers of each asked me if I could be the music supervisor and put together a backing band for them in Shanghai. I said yes and contacted Greg. What then happened was an amazing week at the Cotton Club. Every night, we had a massive jam with both artists, who absolutely loved the place and the musicians. To this day, both artists frequently ask me how the gang is at the Cotton Club.
My first time at CC
When I decided to come to China 8 years ago, my brother in-law’s cousin said he knew a musician in Shanghai. He then introduced me to Matt Cadillac Cooper in an email, and I told him I play harmonica. Matt gave me the address of CC and told me to come down, but since it was a Saturday night, he said I would have to come on a Tuesday night to Jam, as [Cotton Club owner] Greg didn’t know me. Mama was singing, and I could not believe this place existed in Asia, let alone China. It felt just like the many blues bars where I had learned to play in the US. The music was so good that during a break I got up enough nerve to introduce myself to Greg. I said, “I play harmonica.” He gave me that stare—the “I don’t know if you can really play” stare. It was a packed house on a Saturday night, so I fully understood his trepidation. I then said, “Look, I can play and I won’t embarrass you, the band or myself. Greg said, “Then come on up!” That was 8 years ago and I’m still playing with the band.
5. "I walked into Cotton Club and sitting in the booth was Ian McKellen, one of my favorite actors in the world." - Denise “Mine-Field” Mininfield, vocals
When That’s asked me for my anecdotes, I said to myself, “I could write a book.” I’ve been there 7 years and so many great and unbelievable things have happened on and off the stage.
I first have to give my props to “The Hombres” for some of the most musical moments. I just want to say thank you. I can’t wait for the new chapter to begin.
Now for some funny and exciting memories: The first one that comes to mind is with Mr. Ned Kelly. I had these great boots on that Ned had noticed when I was onstage. Now, show’s over, boots off, hehe. So Ned starts talking about these boots and about how much he liked them, and he said that he would kiss them. I said that I didn’t believe he would do it… Well guess what? He did, and we took this great picture that he posted on his moments. It was a good laugh! He’s my bud and has always been a great supporter of CC. Another great moment was when I walked into Cotton Club and sitting in the booth was Ian McKellen, one of my favorite actors in the world. I felt such a beautiful energy meeting him! Thank you 1416 Huaihai Lu, Cotton Club, for so many great memories!
6. "Some nights it was just so damn cool.... like you were in a movie." - Matt Cooper, guitar
So many memories…It’s hard to pick just one… the 5000th show.... all the international stars that would pop in.... even the last night was pretty amazing!
However I'm going to go with playing with the incredible house band, specifically performing with Sugar Mama. Every night with Mama was amazing: random stops where you had best be paying attention, or she would call you out by name in the middle of the song. And she always made the endings interesting.
One night in particular, at the end of one song, Mama walked off the stage without her microphone, singing with her amazing voice... She proceeded to sit down on a customer's lap. She finished the song, then stole his cigar and took a puff. Some nights it was just so damn cool.... like you were in a movie.
7. "That place made me feel like I had a home in Shanghai." - Apphia Campbell, vocals
I’m so nostalgic this evening thinking about when I first came to Cotton Club. Also, hearing Sugar Mama for the first time; what a special place the Cotton Club was for me. You all and that place made me feel like I had a home in Shanghai. Can't believe it's not going to be in its old home anymore, but looking forward to seeing CC 2.0.
8. "My favorite times were when we'd stay at the club until the end of the night... having those deep drunk conversations until 4-5am." - Raina Skar, vocals
There are so many memories tied with Cotton Club; it's hard to pick one. As cliche as it may sound, CC wasn't just a workplace or a blues bar, it was my second home. We were a big tight family. I honestly don't know where I would be in my life right now if it wasn't for Greg and the guys.
My favorite times were when we'd stay at the club until the end of the night. All the staff were gone, along with the customers, and we'd be a group of 5-6 people having those deep drunk conversations until 4-5am. And we'd cover every topic imaginable. Those were my favorite nights. And the best part was when Greg shared his Russia stories with his voice getting louder and louder (that's when you knew he was drunk). Those were the best of times!
9. "Sugar Mama bringing the house down with any old song - telling stories that made my eyes go wide." - Selinde Dulckeit, superfan
Sugar Mama bringing the house down with any old song - telling stories that made my eyes go wide. The time our Danish friends visited and treated Sugar Mama to a very special 'whistle'. The musicians blasting the roof off the place the night we gathered to celebrate Sugar Mama's life - the grief, the energy and the soothing effects of music on the soul and the heart. DENISE! all the time, every time. Denise and Ginger singing a duet on Angel from Montgomery - power and drama and beauty. Fong on trumpet - and a rare song he sang for Oslyn on her birthday. Matt making the glasses shimmy on the table with his good vibrations. Greg, with his head-turning guitar solos, always the backbone of the place. When his head was bent, you knew things were bad. Thankfully that was pretty rare.
And mostly Cotton Cub was the place to go when the city seemed to get the better of me, when I felt untethered by it all. Live music has always grounded me, and at Cotton Club, it came with a solid group of loyal, crazy-ass friends and a hundred happy smiling faces. A night at Cotton Club would cure the worst day or week. You always left revitalized, rejuvenated - and smelling like an ash tray.
For more Shanghai news, click "Read more" below.