Get Lost in Kunming: Yunnan’s Underrated Capital City

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Even before I arrived in China, I had heard nothing but praise for Yunnan. This land South of the Clouds lives up to the literal translation of its Chinese name – blue skies, big clouds, all in a place filled with color and contrast, especially if you’re starting out from Kunming.

Ask anyone about where to go in Yunnan and they’ll say start from the provincial capital but don’t just stay there. They will usually tell you that it’s a starting point for all your exotic excursions to Dali, Pu’er, and Xishuangbanna and nothing more.

Smack dab in the city center, Moon & Chalice isn't just a great place to stay, but good-looking as well

So, when it came time for me to finally visit Kunming, all I could think was, “What is there to even do there?”

I took a step out the door, hopped on a plane, and found myself in the capital, riding the subway from Kunming Changshui Airport to my hotel…

A Home in the Old City

This was my first taste of an out-of-the-ordinary journey. Dubbed the Moon & Chalice Boutique Hotel, the hotel occupies two French-designed twin yellow buildings erected in 1944. It’s named as such because they both curve to form a crescent moon embracing two lanes that, when looked at from above, form a chalice.

Entering the hotel, the interior is a sight to behold. Keeping with the aesthetic of the era the buildings were born in, the whole space is art deco with a contemporary flare here and there. Gold metal and marble meeting with blue and green walls, and art of all kinds throughout.

The rooms are slim but still comfortable

Even the rooms (some thin, due to the width of the structures, but not cramped) are phenomenal. A stay in a Standard Double Room runs about RMB 468 per night and can get you a dose of that local luxury that gives you all the comforts that you would want.

Around Green Lake

Think of Green Lake, 翠湖 Cuì Hú, as a miniature version of Beijing’s Beihai with a few elements of Shichahai (namely the shopping for kitsch aspect), with features like temples, pavilions, and bridges throughout. It’s green under the summer sun, and entering through a stylized red and blue gateway, I’m greeted by a long bridge flanked by placid waters covered by lily pads not yet in bloom.

Wenlin Jie has a great many quirky shops and storefronts

Green Lake isn't just a nice place to walk around and gaze at the green of spring or summer, but there are plenty of activities to try as well. For small children in tow, there are singing mall trains cruising about. There's also the option to paddleboat your way around the lake as well.

A Little Bit of History

When looking for a spot that can be called one of the most significant historic sites in the city, the honor goes to Yunnan Military Academy. Founded in 1909, the academy’s history goes from the end of the imperial era and into the modern era.

In between all the history, there are little tidbits like mock classrooms thrown in, as well as a look at students’ living quarters and, in the middle, yet another café and shop overlooking the training grounds. In keeping with wanghong trends, they’ve even got ice creams shaped like the academy entrance.

The city was also home for a time to the American Volunteer Group, aka the Flying Tigers

Besides the Yunnan Military Academy, a few other museums worth a visit include the Kunming Museum (which houses a special exhibition on the American Volunteer Group, aka the Flying Tigers), the Yunnan Provincial Museum, and the Yunnan Railway Museum. The latter institution, housed near Kunming North Station, has a collection of trains – making it a great spot to visit if you’re traveling with children.

Where to Refuel

While one could just skip hunting for the perfect cup of Yunnan coffee and head to the nearest Starbucks (fun fact: they use only Yunnan beans in China), instead hit up local cafés and check out all the different sub-varieties of Yunnan beans there are to be had. Best bet: right outside Moon & Chalice there’s 日常咖啡 Rìcháng Kāfēi, which has three different Yunnan beans to choose from to try or take home (I got one for RMB 98 for 100g).

My first taste of proper Yunnan cuisine took place just off Wenlin Jie, at a small eatery called Heavenly Manna. The stuff to go for at this cheap and popular lunch and dinner spot include the Yunnan-Style Mashed Potatoes (RMB 22), Lotus Root in Dai-Style Sauce (RMB 25), Stir-Fried Goat Cheese With Tomato (RMB 45), and the vaguely named Spicy Tasty Pork (RMB 38), which is true to its name and pretty tasty.

Heavenly Manna is a great lunch and dinner spot

Last but not least, no trip to Kunming is complete without getting yourself an 饵块 ěrkuài. Not exactly two yuan (it translates to earpiece), erkuai is sticky rice dough that’s pounded until soft and molded into different shapes. The most common form sees the dough rolled around a youtiao with sweet and savory fillings (烧饵块加油条 shāo ěrkuài jiā yóutiáo). Get it, it’s good! But don’t try using it to get on public transit.

The Western Hills & Dianchi Lake

Much like Beijing, Kunming has a Western Hills (RMB 30/entry), but unlike their dryer and more massive counterpart in the north, the hills in Kunming find themselves next to a lake, the sixth largest in China to be exact.

A commanding view of Dianchi Lake (滇池 diānchí) can be had when summiting the mountain via chair lift (RMB 25/person). Aside from the breathtaking view, on the walk down there’s another difference setting it apart from the north: this spot is part climb part Daoist holy site. Small outcroppings dot the path downward, each with a shrine hiding deities within. One of the highlights of the trek is Datian Pavilion, where the 龙门 Lóngmén (Dragon Gate), for which this series of outcroppings and shrines is named, can be found.

For a closer look at Dianchi after a climb down, it’s a bit of a drive, but worth it. Visiting there on an afternoon rewards one with the slowly setting sun dancing across the waters. The crescent-shaped lake is massive, 39km in length and 13km in width at its widest point.

Naigu Stone Forest
Not to be confused with the larger and more popular Stone Forest Scenic Area, the Naigu Stone Forest Scenic Area (乃古石林风景区 nǎigǔ shílín fēngjǐngqū) is a great place to witness Yunnan’s karst topography while avoiding crowds of tourists. When our group of eight visited, we were the only souls in the entire scenic area beside a film crew we ran into well into our tour.

Unlike Major Stone Forest, Naigu’s rock formations are predominantly black in color. The formations can either be viewed from a series of paths amongst stones or from a path snaking through the center of the formations. The latter is a bit more fun to traverse, as you can duck and dodge under and around protruding pieces of stone.

Like many before me, my journey to Kunming has made me fall in love with the local culture, scenery, food, and art. It’s something that should be on every person’s China travel bucket list -- but there's yet more to see just outside the capital that's worth sharing. Stay tuned!

Images: Courtesy of IMDB.com, Pexels, Vivienne Tseng-Rush

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