Nina: The Classiest (and Cleanest) Dive Bar Near Houhai

By Harry Parker

Nina feels like three bars in one. First, your classic hutong bar – outside seats in the smoggy, scooter-riddled alleyway, the quintessential Beijing ambiance.

But stepping into Nina, then, is like stepping out of the hutongs – it’s a simple, intimate lounge, built for conversations over wine and flirtatious glances. A couple meters in, the decor changes yet again, chic neon signage making it feel like the classiest (and cleanest) dive bar this side of Houhai.      

What do all of three of these bars have in common? They’re for talking.

The music is soft. The drinks are Italian. Nina is a place to fall in love or stay in love.

Nina is the lovechild of two Fangjia Hutong refugees, popular French hangout Jiao Bar and Italian pop-up Cartoccio, who aren’t letting the bricking of their beloved former ’tong stop them from serving European food and drinks at laudable prices.

Nina marries Jiao’s wine and spritzes with Cartoccio’s Italian street food, and the menu offers plenty of options to help you forget the sounds of construction. Start with a Nina Spritz (RMB60), a bittersweet twist on a classic, and a Cartoccio platter (RMB75-150), which we can only describe as next-level delicious: crispy arancini served with a variety of dipping sauces. (Pro tip: Spritzes are RMB30 during happy hour.)

Nina also has mini pizzas (RMB55-60), which are both terrific and tiny – avoid them if you're starving, indulge when you’re snacking. Finish with a negroni (RMB40) and you’ll be ready to dance the night away at a sleazy nearby Gulou bar of your choosing. Or just order another and talk instead.

66 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷66号

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