以“云咖”之名 | In the Name of “Yunnan Coffee”

Coffee is the “wine” of the daytime. Sour and bitter flavors merges at the tip of the tongue, and the silky and warm liquid was accompanied by smooth sweetness. Paired with something sweet, as the fragrance of the coffee lingers on, the taste of romance is formed.

咖啡，是白日的“酒”。酸与苦，在舌尖融合，丝滑温热的液体，伴着调甘，慢慢回香，再配些甜点，浪漫成味。

Americano, latte, cappuccino and flat white, these exotic goods have taken root in Kunming and gradually became a part of the city. In the meantime, people chasing for their own coffee dreams and the confidence in coffee of Yunnan have appeared in Kunming.

美式、拿铁、卡布奇诺、馥芮白……舶来品在昆明生了根，渐渐成为这座城市的一部分。而在昆明，有这么一群人，为了自己的“咖啡梦”和云南的“咖啡自信”，奋力奔跑着。

As the capital of Yunnan Province, coffee is very popular in Kunming. In recent years, the streets and lanes of Kunming have been filled with coffee shops. However, most of the coffee beans used are imported or deeply roasted, of which the former is expensive, and the latter relies on seasoning. Kunming is surrounded by coffee producing areas, but the people here rarely use local coffee beans.

作为云南省省会，咖啡在昆明很有市场。近些年，在昆明的大街小巷，各种咖啡店琳琅满目，但所用的咖啡豆大多是进口豆或深度烘培，前者价贵，后者依靠调味。昆明距离咖啡产区很近，却很少用本地咖啡豆。

Barista training center. By Liu Kaida

咖啡师培训实训中心。刘凯达摄

“What we want to do is to allow the people of Kunming to taste cheap local coffee beans with good quality,” said barista Lü Siyi while roasting coffee beans in his workshop. He has a great passion for coffee and argued that “the coffee varieties planted abroad can also be planted here in Yunnan, and the quality is not worse than that of imported beans.” In the workshop are brown gunny bags filled with roasted Arabica beans, an Ethiopian variety grown successfully in Pu’er that can produce coffee with excellent flavor and aroma.

“我们想做的，就是让昆明人品尝到本地优质且便宜的精品咖啡豆。”正在生产车间烘烤咖啡豆的是咖啡师吕司仪，他对咖啡有着深厚感情。“目前国外能够种植的咖啡品种，云南也能种，品质不比进口的差。”棕色麻袋里装着已经烘培好的阿拉比卡，这个原产自埃塞俄比亚的品种，在普洱种植成功，制成咖啡后风味香气俱佳。

Put the coffee powder in the portafilter and use the tamper to evenly tamp the coffee. Insert the portafilter to the group head, and dissolve the powder into brown liquid with steam. By adding milk and sugar, a delicate cup of milk coffee is done. This is barista Wuyang Zhennan’s daily work, but it is really more of a hobby than a job. Pour the milk into the steel jug and bring it to the steam wand, while slightly tilting the jug. With the steam from the steam wand, thick milk foam soon appears. Pour the milk foam into the coffee while moving your arm, and start your latte art creation, whether you make a leaf, a hearts, or a swan is up to you.

将咖啡粉倒进把手，压平后接入冲煮头，蒸汽萃取溶为褐色液体，加奶、糖，一杯精致的奶咖完成上桌。这是咖啡师武扬振男每天的工作。与其说是工作，不如说是爱好。黏稠的奶泡倾斜入缸，微量空气使其绵密，“扑”入咖啡液顺势移动手臂，树叶、爱心、天鹅……拉花，成画。

The staff compares the roast at different times and temperatures. By Li Haixi

工作人员比较不同时间和温度下烤制出来的咖啡豆。李海曦摄

Wuyang Zhennan fell in love with coffee the first time he tried it. According to him, the coffee in Kunming was served at the western restaurants on Wenlin Street. With a plate of pasta, a cup of coffee and a piece of dessert, that is how fashionable young people enjoy their lives in Kunming. Different from traditional drinks, the sweet and bitter combination of flavors in coffee creates a unique taste, which makes it trendy.

第一次接触咖啡时，武扬振男就爱上了它。在他印象中，昆明最初的咖啡，来自文林街那些西餐馆。一盘意面、一杯咖啡、一块甜点，时尚的昆明年轻人从中获得一份惬意。这杯甜苦，与传统饮品不同，独有的滋味里，还有“潮流”。

The history of coffee in Kunming is no longer than 10 years.

咖啡完全融入昆明人的生活，是近十年的事情。

The staff making coffee. By Li Haixi

工作人员正在制作咖啡。李海曦摄

The local brand “Hougu” quickly occupied the instant coffee market in Kunming, and its reputation even caught up with the instant coffee giant Nestlé. Gradually, a few specialized coffee shops opened in the commercial centers in Kunming and even if the price was high, there was still a demand. However, many consumers soon discovered that premium did not speak for quality. If the coffee beans used are of poor quality, the shops would gradually lose their customers.

曾经，一个叫“后谷”的本地品牌以速溶咖啡迅速占领昆明市场，“甜味、便携”等特点让其名气和受众直追外国品牌“雀巢”。渐渐地，一些专门制作咖啡的店铺在昆明商业中心开了起来，即使价高也有市场。但消费者慢慢发现，高端并不代表品质。若所用咖啡豆并非优质咖啡豆，便渐渐失去拥趸。

“From the pursuit of fashion to the pursuit of taste, more Kunming consumers are starting to understand coffee. Good taste comes from the coffee beans themselves, not additives.” According to Wuyang Zhennan, the largest coffee bean producing areas in Yunnan are Dehong, Pu’er, Lincang, and Baoshan, and their coffee beans are of excellent quality. The coffee bean planting area in Yunnan accounts for 70% of the national total, and the output reaches 83% of the national total, indicating the dominant position of Yunnan coffee in China. But unfortunately, most of the high-quality coffee beans in Yunnan are sold outside the province or exported, and even though the quality is good, the price is relatively low.

“从追求潮流到追求口感，更多昆明消费者懂得了咖啡的真滋味，优质的咖啡口感来源于咖啡豆本身，而非后期调味。”武扬振男介绍，云南最大的咖啡豆产区在德宏、普洱、临沧、保山等地，豆子品质优良，全省咖啡种植面积占全国的70%，产量达全国的83%，可见云南咖啡在国内的主导地位。但遗憾的是，云南优质咖啡豆大多卖到省外或出口，原材料虽好价格却不高。

Various signs on the wall. By Li Haixi

墙面上的各种挂牌。刘凯达摄

Apart from good coffee beans, you also need the skill of baristas to make a good cup of coffee. According to Wuyang Zhennan, in addition to producing coffee, they also organize professional barista training. Theoretical knowledge and specialization can make baristas better understand Yunnan coffee beans and allow them to make great coffee with Yunnan characteristics.

咖啡的美味除了来自豆子本身，咖啡师的手艺也很重要。武扬振男介绍，除了生产咖啡，他们也在做职业咖啡师培训。理论化、专业化能够让咖啡师更懂云南咖啡豆，做出“最云南”的咖啡。

“We are widely recognized with the listing of the Employment and Innovation Base of Yunnan Agricultural University, the Education, Teaching and Practice Base of Kunming University, the Professional Barista Certification Center and the Training and Practical Training Center of Kunming Metallurgy College, as well as the 155th Vocational Skill Appraisal Institute of Yunnan Province,” said Wuyang Zhennan. As barista is becoming a profession, more and more people will fall in love with it, and when everyone in Kunming can drink the best Yunnan coffee at the cheapest price, the “confidence in coffee” will be realized.

“云南农业大学就业与创新创业基地，昆明学院教育教学实习基地，昆明冶金高校咖啡师职业资格认证中心、培训实训中心，云南省第155职业技能鉴定所……这些‘挂牌’都是对我们的认可。”武扬振男说，当咖啡师成了一种职业，热爱它的人就会更多，而当每个昆明人以最便宜的价格喝到最优质的云南本土咖啡时，“咖啡自信”便成了现实。

As you get up in the morning, fill your cup with warm coffee endowed by nature 1,400 meters above sea level, and let the aroma and smooth feeling of the coffee accompany you every day, every month, every year.

晨起，温热的瓷杯里盛着来自海拔1400米的自然馈赠，一缕浓香伴着丝滑，一天，一月，年年。

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