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国潮:风起春城 | Traditional Chinese Elements in the Spring City

看昆明 2022-09-15



The Banquet of the Tang Palace, Chinese Bluish Green, the twenty-four solar terms countdown, the opening ceremony of the Beijing Winter Olympics, seeing friends off with willow branches... Chinese elements have amazed the world again and again. With traditional Chinese culture coming into the spotlight time and time again, Chinese elements become more and more popular among young people.


从《唐宫夜宴》到《只此青绿》,从北京冬奥会开幕式上的二十四节气倒计时,到闭幕式上的“折柳寄情”,绝美的中国元素一次次令世界惊叹。随着中国传统文化频频出圈,国风热持续升温,在年轻人中大受追捧。


On the streets of Kunming, you can often see citizens dressed in Hanfu (Han Chinese costume). In addition, there is a dazzling array of Chinese cosmetics, and trendy mock-ups... Like the wind, traditional Chinese elements infiltrate into all aspects of life of Kunming people, including clothing, food, housing, transportation, and entertainment.


在昆明大街上,时常能够见到身着汉服的市民,中国元素十足的新式茶饮,琳琅满目的国货美妆、潮玩手办……国风文化的兴起也如风一般,从不易察觉之处,吹到与昆明人衣食住行娱相关的方方面面。


Tourists in Han costumes are visiting Daguan Park. By Huang Xiaosong

身着汉服的游客在大观公园游览。黄晓松摄




Among all the traditional Chinese elements, Hanfu is becoming more and more popular.


国潮热,汉服更热。


With traditional Chinese elements in vogue, the Hanfu industry has witnessed rapid development in recent years. According to Tianyancha.com, there are more than 3,400 domestic Hanfu enterprises, up to now of which 80% were established within the last five years. The rapid development of the industry depends on the vital increase in the number of consumers.


在国潮流行趋势下,汉服产业在近几年不断发展。天眼查数据显示,截至目前,国内汉服类企业达3400余家,近八成设立于5年内。行业如此迅猛的发展速度,有赖于消费人群的迅速增加。


Pan Xiaojie fell in love with Hanfu in 2019. “At that time, I often saw various evaluations and recommendations of Hanfu on the Internet. It originated from Chinese culture. So, I fell in love with it without my knowing.” Like many young people who love Hanfu, Pan Xiaojie thought of a lot of fabrics and colors, and chose the Hanfu with a strapless gown of the Tang Dynasty at the very beginning. After years of development, wearing Hanfu is no longer a novelty. Pan Xiaojie’s understanding of Hanfu has changed from looking good, to an in-depth understanding of Hanfu culture. She can now tell the characteristics of all kinds of Hanfu such as curved front dresses, the short jackets of Jin Dynasty, the round collar dresses of Tang Dynasty, the dresses with straight collars of Song Dynasty, etc. Under her influence, her friends also began to like Hanfu.


潘晓洁2019年开始喜欢上汉服,“那时候上网经常看到各种汉服测评、推荐,毕竟有文化渊源,我不知不觉就喜欢上了。”与众多喜爱汉服的年轻人一样,潘晓洁一开始只看重面料、配色,看起来仙气飘飘的唐制齐胸形制成为她的首选。经过几年的发展,穿汉服早已不是新奇事,潘晓洁对汉服的理解也从原来的凑热闹、图好看,变成了对汉服文化的深入了解。从曲裾、晋襦到唐圆领、宋褙子,潘晓洁都能说出形制特点。在她的影响下,周围的朋友也开始喜欢上汉服。


Tourists in Han costumes. By Huang Xiaosong

身着汉服的游客在公园游览。黄晓松摄


In recent years, more and more children begin to wear Hanfu, and many schools begin to host traditional culture-themed activities at traditional festivals. At the Dragon Boat Festival last year, Sun Jiayu and two other classmates made a handwritten newspaper report about this traditional festival, explaining the historical origin and origin of the festival, and received an A+.


近几年,穿汉服也在孩子们中间流行起来,不少学校结合传统节日专门组织国潮文化主题活动。去年端午节,孙嘉钰和其余两名同学一起做了关于这个传统节日的手抄报,详细讲述了其历史渊源和由来,获得A+评分。


Boys also began to be attracted by Hanfu through its profound culture. In addition to the more heroic flying fish suits such as yisa and tieli, they also like round-collar robes, Taoist robes, and jackets. In recent years, robes with armor are becoming more and more popular. Those wearing Hanfu will always come into focus at major events.


汉服不仅仅是女孩们的专属,不少男士也开始被其深厚的文化所吸引。除了曳撒、帖里这一类较英气的飞鱼服,圆领袍、道袍、褡护也是男士喜爱选择的汉服款式,近几年,铠甲类款式也越来越受到青睐。在各大汉服活动现场,身着汉服的男士,总会成为现场的焦点。


国风奶茶店。资料图

Fun in Kunming Poetic Living




It is widely believed that young people seldom choose tea. In fact, in addition to traditional tea, the Chinese are constantly innovating on tea, a classic drink that originated in China, at an alarming rate, which is attracting more and more young people.


在大众普遍的认知里,年轻人和茶的关系总是若即若离的。事实上,在传统茗茶之外,茶这种源于中国的经典饮品,正以惊人的速度不断革新,吸引着越来越多的年轻群体。


In the Bawang Chaji store on Wuyi Road, the waiters are making tea drinks, and the customers are waiting in line. “I’m tired of milk tea. And their tea drinks always surprise me.”Zhou Yu, a young person of generation Z (born from 1995 to 2009), said that he liked cola and coffee when he was in school, but now he prefers tea.


在五一路霸王茶姬的门店里,店员正在忙着制作一杯杯饮品,而等候的人已经排到了店外。“喝腻了市面上各种口味的奶茶,他们家的冷泡茶总能给我惊喜。”周宇是一个Z世代青年,他说自己上学时可乐、咖啡不离手,如今工作了倒偏爱起喝茶来。


Although we all drink tea, the way young people drink tea is very different from that of the elders. In the context of the rapid growth of new tea drinks, the main consumers represent generation Z. They attach great importance to individuality and diversification, and hope to see more innovative products during the development of tea brands and even some new conceptual elements. According to Zhou Yu, the elders like to make a pot of tea and enjoy it leisurely, and the young people prefer tea that can be taken away at any time because of the fast pace of life and work. And tea drinks from Bawang Chaaji with light paper cups, traditional Chinese design and multiple flavors, especially the fresh milk tea that naturally integrates the aroma of tea and milk, are right in line with the appetite of young people.


虽然都是喝茶,但年轻人的饮茶方式与长辈还是天差地别。在新式茶饮快速成长的市场背景里,消费主力军已经转向了Z世代人群。他们强调个性化、多元化,因此更希望看到茶饮品牌成长或是分化过程中出现更多充满新意的产品,甚至是一些新鲜的概念化玩法。周宇说:“长辈们喝茶,是喜欢泡一壶茶就座看云卷云舒,而年轻人由于生活和工作的快节奏,能够随时带走的茶饮就成了最好的选择。”而霸王茶姬这种,轻巧的纸杯、国风十足的设计、多口味的选择,尤其是将茶香与奶香自然融为一体的原叶鲜奶茶,死死地拿捏住了年轻人的喜好。


Traditional costumes. File photo

传统戏服。资料图


Since 2015, the new tea beverage market has been expanding rapidly. According to the Research on the New Tea Beverage Industry in China issued by iResearch, the current new tea beverage market has achieved remarkable results with an estimated scale of 97.9 billion yuan. It is expected to exceed 200 billion yuan in 2030.


2015年以来,我国的新式茶饮市场加速扩容,艾瑞咨询颁布的《中国新式茶饮行业研究报告》数据显示,目前新式茶饮市场成绩斐然,规模预估为979亿元,2030年更是有望突破2000亿元。




“The popularization of Chinese elements, especially the rise of old domestic brands, gives us a strong sense of identity with local culture.” Ms. Li, a citizen, said that during the Spring Festival this year, she developed a new understanding of Yunnan’s food culture through the Spring Festival gift packages from Dehe Canned Food Company and Kunming Guanshengyuan, two-century-old brands.


“国潮风越刮越猛,特别是老牌国货品牌崛起,让我们对本土文化产生了强烈的认同感。”市民李女士说,今年春节期间德和罐头公司和昆明冠生园两个百年老字号联名推出的春节年货礼盒,让她对云南特色美食文化有了新的认知。


The reporter found that there are abundant products in the offline stores of Dehe Canned Food. In addition to the main luncheon meat series, there are canned products, seasoning sauces, and preserved products. After years of innovation and development, Kunming Guanshengyuan has more than 100 kinds of products such as cakes, moon cakes, Dian cakes, and zongzi, in the online store.


在走访中,记者发现,德和罐头线下门店产品丰富,除了主打的午餐肉系列,还有罐头产品、调味酱、腌腊制品等。昆明冠生园经过多年的创新与发展,线上门店销售的糕点、月饼、滇饼、粽子等系列产品也有百余种。


Packaging with traditional cultural elements. File photo
国潮包装。资料图


“Time-honored brands, new packaging, and new promotional strategies are popular among our people.” Mr. Fan, a citizen, said that the current time-honored brands are not “outdated” at all, they are “new” and “trendy”.


“老字号、新包装、新推广,这样的方式是我们老百姓喜闻乐见的。”市民范先生说,感觉现在的老字号并不“老”了,甚至它很“新”也很“潮”。


In the historical and cultural districts of Kunming, traditional Chinese elements are also in vogue.


在昆明的历史文化街区,国潮风也刮得很浓烈。


“The ice cream from Yunnan Army Academy, which combines history and culture, is popular in Wechat Moments. And many friends desire to have such an ice cream.” “The ice cream with Chinese traditional cultural elements in cultural scenic spots is more than just a snack.” “Walking among the jacaranda with a jacaranda ice cream, and taking a photo, you will be pleasantly surprised.” Both the cultural and creative ice cream from the Yunnan Army Academy and the jacaranda ice cream on the Jiaochang Zhonglu Road are undoubtedly products that combine traditional craftsmanship and innovation. The collision of the old and the new has given them new vitality.


“把云南陆军讲武堂的雪糕在微信朋友圈里传播,是历史与文化的结合,很多朋友留言都表示想拥有这样一款雪糕。”“文化景区的国潮雪糕,可不是吃吃吃那么简单。”“拿一支蓝花楹雪糕,走在蓝花楹里,随手一拍都是惊喜。”不论是云南陆军讲武堂推出的“文创雪糕”,还是教场中路的“蓝花楹雪糕”,无疑都是传统工艺与创新方式相结合的产物,老与新的碰撞,赋予了它们新的生命力。


Cultural and creative ice cream launched by Yunnan army lecture hall. File photo

云南陆军讲武堂推出的文创雪糕。资料图




A piece of bamboo music, a pine tree, and a wisp of sandalwood... Every corner in the hotels in Gongxili, Dongsi Street, Kunming are unique. With the music of Guqin, three or five friends can drink tea, read, or do yoga here, and enjoy a leisurely life.


一段丝竹、一柄青松、一缕檀香,推门进入昆明东寺街龚禧里遇见酒店,每个转角都独具匠心。伴随着古琴音,三五个人或饮茶或阅读或瑜伽,享受着怡然自得的慢生活。


In recent years, a new Chinese style has been sought after in the design of modern hotels, and the number of new Chinese-style hotels is rising.


近年来,新中式风在现代酒店设计中的应用受到追捧,新中式酒店的崛起逐渐成为国潮风席卷酒店业的醒目标志。


Gongxili Hotel. File photo

龚禧里酒店。资料图


According to Gong Weimin, a founder of a hotel brand, the so-called new Chinese-style hotel is an accommodation space that combines traditional Chinese elements with modern living concepts and architectural techniques. It combines both traditional cultural heritage and modern aesthetics.


酒店品牌创始人龚伟民告诉记者,所谓新中式酒店,是传统中国风元素结合现代居住理念和建筑工艺,营造出的既具传统文化底蕴又符合现代审美的住宿空间。


At present, most of the new Chinese-style hotels are mid-to-high-end hotels. According to industry insiders, although new Chinese elements are getting more and more popular, there are not many business hotels with new Chinese styles among mid-to-high-end homestays.


目前,新中式酒店大多定位为中高端。据业内人士观察,新中式元素应用虽然普遍,但在中高端民宿领域整体为新中式的商务酒店并不多。


Traditional Chinese-style elements in the hotel File photo

酒店中的传统中国风元素。资料图


Liu Yang, general manager of Yunnan Gongxili Hotel Management Co., Ltd., said, “New Chinese hotels can be roughly divided into three categories according to their development. The first are purely imitated products that retain historical culture; the second category combines traditional elements in form and modern functions; the third, which innovates in traditional elements, uses modern materials, structures and concepts, and expresses unique Chinese ideas, and common customs and symbols. Gongxili Hotel is in the third category.”


云南龚禧里酒店管理有限公司品牌中心总经理刘洋介绍:“从开发上,新中式酒店大致可分为三大类。第一类是保留历史文化,纯粹地模仿出来的产品;第二类是传统与现代结合,在形式上是传统的,但在功能上是现代的;第三是在传统元素上的创新,在程式上使用现代的材料、结构和理念,但在意念上又表达着中国所独有和常见的习俗和符号。龚禧里酒店属于第三类。”


The branch manager of Gongxili Hotel told the reporter that in addition to taking photos by young people wearing Hanfu, the hotel also launched Chinese-style wedding rooms based on its using its own advantages. “Guests choose our hotel to stay away from the hustle and bustle of the city for a while, so that they can better feel the oriental aesthetics of harmonious coexistence.”


龚禧里酒店一名分店店长告诉记者,除了开放汉服少年到店打卡拍照,酒店还根据自身优势推出了中式迎亲房。“客人选择到店里打卡,暂别城市的喧嚣,可以更好感受到和谐共生的东方美学。”




As one of the first provincial-level night-time culture and tourism consumption gathering areas in Yunnan, Nanqiang Street, which began to rise in the middle of the Qing Dynasty, certainly reflects the cultural heritage of Kunming. During traditional festivals, various traditional activities will be held on Nanqiang Street. Young people dressed in Hanfu with self-made purses on their waists and fans in their hands gather here from all areas of the city, giving people a feeling of traveling through time.


作为云南首批省级夜间文化和旅游消费集聚区,清代中叶开始兴起的南强街继承着昆明精彩的市井文化脉络。每逢中国的传统佳节,南强街就会举办各种传统活动,身着汉服、腰挂自制荷包、手摇团扇的年轻人从城市的四面八方相聚于此,让人有一种穿越的感觉。


Nanqiang market. By Li Haixi

南强集市。李海曦摄


Zhou Qing is a fan of Hanfu. Once on Nanqiang Street, she met a mother and daughter. “What is she wearing? She looks like a fairy. Can I wear such a dress?” Seeing Zhou Qing, the little girl asked her mother. “This is Hanfu, the clothes worn by ancient people.” After explaining to her daughter, the mother took the child over to take a photo with Zhou Qing. “After this experience, I hope that the culture of Hanfu can be passed on.” Zhou Qing said.


周青是一个汉服爱好者,有一次在南强街,她遇到了一对母女。“姐姐穿的是什么衣服?像仙女一样,我也能穿这样的衣服吗?”小女孩看到周青后,不断地询问旁边的妈妈。“这是汉服,是古代人穿的衣服。”向女儿解释完之后,母亲拉着孩子过来跟周青合照。“有了这次经历之后,我觉得一定要把汉服这种文化传承下去。”周青说。


Liu Dan runs a Hanfu experience store. She said, “Hanfu should be expressed well. The collars should be overlapped with the right collar on the top and the left collar on the bottom. The collars should cross, and a knot should be made at the waist by tying the belt at the lower part of the right collar with the belt at the left waist.” Liu Dan said that she saw a business opportunity from the trend and opened the Hanfu experience store. “Whenever there are traditional Chinese festivals, the store will be crowded.”


刘丹经营着一家汉服古装体验馆。她说:“汉服在穿着上是非常有讲究的。穿上汉服后需要交叠衣领,要按照右衣领在上,左衣领在下,右领压住左领使左右两衣领形成交叉状,到腰部将右领下角的衣带与左腰侧的衣带系在一起打上结。”刘丹表示,之所以开汉服古装体验馆,正是瞄准了昆明国潮热的商机。“每当遇到中国传统节日,店里一天就会有数十名顾客到访。”



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