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迪奥新品被质疑“抄袭中国马面裙”,售价2.9万元,中国官网已下架
French fashion brand Dior encountered controversy on Chinese social media platforms as some Hanfu lovers accused the brand of copycatting the design of traditional Chinese horse face skirt in its fall 2022 collection without clarifying the source of inspiration.
宏观来看,类似的参考在时尚圈较为常见,迪奥历史上的多位设计师也曾对中国元素有过借鉴。不过大部分网友指出,其问题在于,迪奥官网在涉事服饰的产品说明中称:这款半裙采用标志性的Dior廓形,是一款全新的优雅时尚的单品。
On the official website of Dior, the brand said the controversial mid-length skirt is "a hallmark Dior silhouette" in the description, which contains no content that indicates the skirt has anything to do with Chinese traditional clothes or culture.
Hanfu lovers highlighted that they deemed Dior's new collection as a copycat as it had high split on the front and back, folds on both sides as well as the design in the waist, which are all typical elements of a horse face skirt, while Dior insisted it was an original design.
A major concern of some Hanfu lovers is that, given Dior's global influence, its global consumers take it as a Dior original, Chinese horse face skirt would instead to be taken as a "copycat" by some people who are not familiar with Chinese culture, which is confusing.
Cultural appropriation is the adoption of certain elements from another culture without the consent of people who belong to that culture.文化挪用指的是未经同意直接使用不属于自身文化的某些要素。
It harms cultures when a prevailing culture adopts things from a different culture without interpreting them, or manipulates them in ways that contradict the origins, and substitutes the dominant culture's idea of what the other culture is like.若主流文化未经解释便使用其它民族文化的内容,或违背该文化原始含义,并用主流文化思想取代另一文化原本思想,都会对该文化造成伤害。
也有部分网友认为这件事的性质属于“文化交流”,而非“抄袭”或“文化挪用”。对文化交流应该抱着开放的态度。
Some others take the issue as "cultural exchanging" rather than copycatting. They said that the issue is a lesson Chinese people should learn from so that in the future we would invest more to promote our own culture.
This skirt can still be seen on Dior's official website without any alternations of its description, while it has disappeared off the official Chinese website. Dior has not made any response to the controversy.
什么是“马面裙”?
Horse face skirt, ma mian qun in Chinese, is a kind of traditional Chinese clothes that has folds on both sides. It has four skirt doors on the front and back overlapping each other. And the overlapping part of the skirt doors is called ma mian (horse face).
The skirt was very popular in the Ming Dynasty from empress to ordinary people. According to different classes and occasions, the material, pattern, and color of horse face skirts are different.
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