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3 New Openings: ma-ia-ki, Oliang Bangkok Bistro, Efes

Rachel Gouk nomfluence 2023-11-23


Vos Families group opens ma-ia-ki, a yaki restaurant in Surpass Court, Thai restaurant Oliang Bangkok Bistro at Hengshan 8, and Turkish restaurant Efes expands to Puxi.



Yakitori




ma-ia-ki

📍  Bldg 2, Surpass Court, 570 Yongjia Lu, near Yueyang Lu 永嘉路570号永嘉庭2号楼, 近岳阳路
📞   17521730213
🕒 Sun-Wed, 6pm-11:30pm; Thu-Sat, 6pm-12:30am

From the Vos Familles group comes ma-ia-ki, a yaki restaurant in Surpass Court. (Vos Families is the same group behind SOiF, Suzie, le Daily, Ottimo, and theWarehouse.)

ma-ia-ki (read: my-yaki) opened late last year. It's a relatively small restaurant with an open kitchen counter that seats 16. There’s also a private rooms for six, and al fresco seating on the terrace that’s waiting to be utilized once the weather cooperates. The vibe is casual and unpretentious, made lively with a groovy, upbeat playlist. 

I say “yaki restaurant” because the focus at ma-ia-ki isn’t just chicken (yakitori), but also dry-aged pigeon (yakihato). The pigeon, which is dry-aged for seven days, is undeniably the star of the menu. Other dishes, which range from chicken skewers to sushi and even cuts of A5, are also worth their salt.


Chef Guo Wenfei, pictured above, is the master behind the grill. He’s spent 17 years in Japanese restaurants practicing the art of grilling. 

Pigeon Aged Thigh (¥68) – Crispy skinned and juicy, served with mountain pepper jam and fig and wine soaked pear.  

Pigeon Aged Breast (¥68) – Grilled to perfection. Deep flavors, tender, and crispy skinned. Served with bourbon marinated apple and finely diced leek.

Chicken Oysters (¥30) – Dense, rich dark meat that's tender and juicy. Topped with julienned shiso.

Chicken Neck (¥28) with herb dressing.  

They also have a “rare” section of the menu, which refers to “unusual or rare cuts” rather than “doneness.” If you’re feeling plucky or have an attuned palate, they also have liver, neck, shirako, diaphragm, and ventricle.

Nodoguro (¥188) fillets grilled over binchotan.

Wagyu A5 Rib-Eye (¥358/100g) – The butter-cut of steaks, served with kimchi and garlic chips.

Rice with Foie Gras (¥108) topped with salmon roe. Luxurious.

Sashimi (¥298/five cuts) – Extremely thick cuts of sashimi; sweet ebi, trevally jack, otoro, mackerel, scallop.

Cured Duck Breast (¥68) – Housemade duck charcuterie that’s been cured for two months, topped with parmesan and dusted with chili spice. A bit too much spice for my liking, which masked the rich, natural flavors of the duck.

Wagyu Spring Roll (¥58) – Satisfying morsels of juicy wagyu in a deep-fried vessel.

Squid with Cream (¥78) – The “cream” actually refers to the squid gonads, which when cooked is creamy in texture. Squid served sautéed with seasonal vegetables and mushrooms. Tasty and recommended.  

Cherry Tomato & Pineapple (¥38) - A good palate cleanser of marinated cherry tomatoes and fresh pineapple in a light syrup.

Rice Cake (¥26) stuffed with cheese. Don’t miss out on these chewy, cheesy treats. 

As for drinks, ma-ia-ki has a selection of wine and sakes curated by group sommelier Yonex Zhang, an extremely talented somm. I interviewed him here. In addition to his extensive knowledge of wines, Yonex is also well versed in Japanese liquors, and has spent a year in a Japan brewery to sharpen his palate. If he isn’t at ma-ia-ki, one of his understudies will surely make a recommendation. 


I highly recommend trying the Chiebijin Koucha, a black tea umeshu liqueur from Japan. It’s quite special, and has sweet, fragrant, and floral notes, suitable towards the end of the meal. It's the bottle on the right in the photo above. 


Autumn Breeze (¥98) - Shochu, pear, osmanthus, cream, lemon, nutmeg.

ma-ia-ki also has a handful of signature cocktails as well as classics and highballs.



Thai




Oliang Bangkok Bistro

📍  No. 107, Bldg 5, 8 Hengshan Lu, near Wulumuqi Nan Lu 衡山路8号5号楼107单元, 近乌鲁木齐南路
📞 64411117
🕒 Daily, 11:30am-2pm, 5:30pm-10pm

Oliang Bangkok Bistro is a casual Thai restaurant in Hengshan 8. It’s a modest eatery run by a close-knit Thai team, some of which are of Chinese descent.

Overall, the food was pretty tasty. The pork neck stood out, as did the fish custard, a steamed dish similar to that of otak-otak, a Malaysian variation.

Grilled Pork Neck (¥128) with toasted rice powder. Pork neck with some powerful flavors; fish sauce, tart and sweet tamarind, and spices. Sprinkled over with toasted rice granules for crunch. Fantastic, and would order again.

Stir-Fried Squid (¥128) with chili paste and salted egg yolk. Standard and delicious.

Hor Mok Thai Curried Fish Custard (¥128) – A custard made with fish, mussels, and prawns, fortified with aromatics of lemongrass, kaffir lime, and spices, topped with coconut cream. It’s light and fluffy with delicate flavors.  

Massaman Curry Beef (¥168) – The curry was sweeter than I prefer. Chicken is also available for ¥138. Rice is ¥6 a bowl.

Service was brisk, but very friendly and polite. Good for a casual, tasty meal.



Turkish / Mediterranean




Efes (Puxi)

📍  600 Huashan Lu, near Wulumuqi Zhong Lu 华山路600号, 近乌鲁木齐中路
📞  18121161177
🕒 Sun-Thu, 11:30am-10pm; Fri-Sat, 11:30am-10:30pm

Turkish restaurant Efes finally expands to Puxi after 10 years serving in Pudong.

Located in a quiet section of Huashan Lu, the décor at Efes is modest if not plain, and the service is warm and welcoming. It’s not as polished as Pasha, but it’ll do in a pinch if you’re craving Turkish food in the neighborhood. They also have two covered terraces that flank the entrance, which are dog-friendly. 

On the menu are Turkish classics with an emphasis on kebabs and grill platters, featuring meats in the form of chops, shish, and kebabs. They also have pides with an array of toppings, and a couple of seafood options.

Fluffy house rolls

Stuffed Vine Leaves (¥88) – Vine leaves stuffed with rice and meat, served with homemade fresh yogurt and tomato sauce, served hot. There’s also a cold version (¥68), stuffed with rice, currants, pine nuts, and parsley.

Small Mezze Platter (¥98) – Eggplant salad (baba ganoush), haydari (strained yogurt), hummus, and baked beans.

Lavash (¥22) comes with yogurt dip.

They have a multitude of mixed platters to share, featuring lamb chops, jumbo prawns, chicken chop, beef shish, and chicken shish. Starts from ¥298.

Minced Beef Kebab (¥148)

Efes Chocolate Dessert (¥64) – Dark chocolate with walnuts and crumble.



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