云鬓华裳 “能造”可爱，汉服设计师变身“唐朝侍女”

在重庆人潮涌动的大街上，胖姑娘敖珞珈穿着汉服悠哉地吃着炸鸡，神情体态和2018年元宵节让她爆红的“侍女吃汤圆图”别无二致。在那组照片中，她身着唐制汉服，丰腴莹润，头梳高髻，对着一碗汤圆欲迎还拒。从一开始的坚决拒绝，到娇羞伸出一根手指表示“只吃一个吧”，再到全部吃完后的心满意足……酷似唐俑的造型和娇憨的表情让敖珞珈受到网友追捧。那是她第一次走进公众视线。

On a bustling street of Chongqing Municipality in southwest China, Ao Luojia snacks on fried chicken, wearing ancient Chinese traditional clothes, hanfu. It's as if she had sprung out of her photo collection named "Maid of the Tang Dynasty Eats Tangyuan" published on last year's Lantern Festival. In the photos, Ao wears a high chignon and a set of plus-size hanfu. Being offered a bowl of glutinous rice balls named tangyuan, the lady in the picture goes from politely refusing to "Maybe just one" and "I am full" at last. Those pictures quickly became an internet sensation for their resemblance to pottery figures from the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD).

汉服，泛指汉民族穿着的古典服装。近年来，曾逐渐式微的汉服重新掀起热潮。有人曾问敖珞珈，你敢穿汉服上街么。她说：敢。不仅因为这是民族服装，还因为，她穿出去的衣服大多是自己设计的。

Hanfu generally refers to the ancient clothing of the Han Chinese. It has been revived as a fashion trend in recent years. Being asked if she would wear the clothes in public, Ao said "Of course I would," not only because it's a tradition for Han people, but also because she designed most the outfits herself. 

敖珞珈从高中起便学习绘画，之后也在美术相关行业工作。一次，在帮朋友绘制汉服的过程中，她萌生了自己设计汉服的想法，并成功开起了一家淘宝店。生完宝宝后，她越来越“大码”，就想拿工作室中“唐代侍女”的大码样衣拍照回馈顾客，未曾想一举大火。

Ao learned painting in high school and used to work in the fine arts business. She inadvertently conceived an idea to design her own hanfu when she helped a friend out. She then opened her online shop on Taobao. After giving birth to her baby, she started to put on weight. She thought it'd be fun to interact with the buyers, so she took photos wearing plus-size hanfu with the patterns for the maids of the Tang Dynasty. She never expected the photos to go viral. 

唐俑是唐代人们制作出代替人殉的陶像，以其精妙的形象塑造而闻名。“唐俑真的好可爱啊，特别是他们的眼神和憨态”。敖珞珈把裙摆稍稍合拢，就将呈圆润纺锤形的唐俑模仿得惟妙惟肖。

Pottery figurines of the Tang Dynasty are funerary objects, famous for their life-like vividness. "They are so cute, especially because of their innocent eyes and gestures," Ao said. Folding the skirt, Ao makes a perfect real-life figurine in the shape of a plump spindle.

除了唐俑，敖珞珈还会去博物馆参考壁画与其他唐朝画作。在服装制式上，她坚持保留体现中国文化的部分：“我们基本保留了衣服的中缝，象征中庸之道。大致的衣服会由四片组成，代表四季”。与此同时，考虑到现代审美，衣料的图案都由她自己绘制。她说：“我们不是在做复原，而是在学习古代服饰的设计并改良和复兴它们”。她要做最时尚、最符合现代人的穿着。

Other than the figurines, she goes to the museums to see mural paintings and other artworks of the Tang Dynasty. She uses elements of Chinese culture for all of her works: "We keep the center seam that symbolizes moderation. The clothes consist of four pieces, which represent four seasons." Meanwhile, she sticks original patterns onto the clothes to fit modern aesthetics. "We don't restore the old style. We study the ancient designs to improve and revitalize it," Ao said. She said she wants to design fashionable and proper clothes for modern people.

2018淘宝造物节上，敖珞珈的大码汉服被评为“天下第一造”。她欣喜于越来越多的人在关注汉服。“汉服是现在年轻人去推广传统文化的媒介”，她不希望未来人们穿着汉服出门的时候还会有人认为那是和服或韩服。

Ao's plus-size hanfu was awarded "the top creation" in the "Taobao Maker Festival" in 2018. She was excited that the number of hanfu fans is increasing. "It is the medium for the younger generation to promote traditional culture," she said. She would never want hanfu to be mistaken for Japan's kimono or the Korean hanbok.

敖珞珈的社交平台上这样写到：“2018年3月2日，诞生了一个小红人，她和其他人那么不一样，她胖胖的，自信又搞怪，她穿着汉服，却又活泼现代。”爆红之后，敖珞珈更希望能用她的搞怪与可爱，让更多的人感受到传统文化的趣味。

Ao wrote in her social media profile, "March 2, 2018: an internet celebrity was born. She is so different from others. She is chubby, confident and humorous. She wears ancient hanfu, having fun in the modern world." With her popularity, she hopes that more people could join her to feel the charm of Chinese traditional culture.

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