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New Opening: A Day Trip to Tokyo at Torishou

2018-03-13 Sophie Steiner ShanghaiWOWeng


As you step through the unassuming front door of Torishou, you’re instantly transported to a bustling yakitori restaurant in the heart of Tokyo. The smell of grilled chicken skin, crispy charred meat, and a hint of miso fill the air of this cozy, dimly-lit restaurant. 



The warming atmosphere is emphasized by the overly friendly staff and controlled chaos within the open kitchen. Here you can see dozens of skewers, holding every part of a chicken you could possibly think of (and even some you can’t), roasting on an open flame.   

 


The small, two-level space seats around 30-40 patrons, so making a reservation or arriving early is a must. Start with a warm mug of fragrant, earthy tea, before moving on to the drink menu which is full of Shochu cocktails (RMB 38), Sake, and flavored Suntory whiskey highballs (RMB 30). The authentic vibes almost make you feel like you should be paying in Japanese yen.

 


The owner William Zhang is a restaurant entrepreneur with an affinity for Japanese food done right. He owns four Japanese restaurants around Shanghai (and a number of other establishments), including Sushi Takumi, Shi Jian, Man Long, and Torishou, each focusing on a distinct ingredient or style of Japanese cuisine. To put it lightly, he knows his stuff. “Maybe in my last life I was Japanese” says Zhang, smiling coyly while popping a peppered chicken gizzard in his mouth.

 


Where did this strong love for Japanese food come from? With so many Shanghainese going to Tokyo in the 1990s, Japanese-style food eventually made its way back to Shanghai, although most of it was just China’s own version,  didn’t hold up in quality, taste, or technique. Zhang wanted to change this trend by bringing reliable and real Japanese-style (and caliber) food to Shanghai, and he's done just that.


 

With a focus on using every part of the chicken, the menu includes around 30 different cuts to choose from (including raw chicken sashimi, if you dare). On any given day, the restaurant also boasts an exclusive and rotating “secret menu." From chicken throat to chicken knees to chicken comb (that wobbly red part on top of a chicken’s head), Torishou has it all.


Chicken Comb with Green Onions

 

Chicken Gizzards

 

Chicken Bottom

 

For the adventurous eater, the Undeveloped Eggs (RMB 20) steal the show. Each skewer comes with 4-5 pendulous eggs, about the size of a hard-boiled quail egg, still attached to the ovaries that are grilled and glazed to perfection. As I popped one with my fork, the thin white outer layer of the egg broke easily, and an explosion of warm, velvety yolk oozed out, reminding me of that perfect first bite of any eggs Benedict. 


Undeveloped Eggs


If eggs still attached to organs are too much to handle mentally, the more common Eggs (RMB 17) still have that same creamy, erupting yolk and sweet, savory glaze, but they are served with no other chicken parts attached, making it a bit easier to stomach.

 

Eggs

 

When debating between Chicken Neck Meat (RMB 12) or the Chicken Throat (RMB 12 on the Secret Menu), the former comes out as the clear winner. Topped with crunchy diced onions and scallions and a sticky miso-based sauce, you’ll be hard-pressed not to order a few extra skewers. 

 

Chicken Tenderloin with Plum


Finally, the Chicken Tenderloin with Plum (RMB 12) is served like a medium rare steak, with a crispy charred outside, and a light pink inside. Drizzled with a pleasantly tangy plum sauce and chiffonade perilla, each bite is a morsel of heaven.

 

For yakitori lovers who aren’t looking for a lesson in chicken anatomy, a lot of the classic skewers are just as delicious. The Chicken Breast (RMB 16) comes with 3 large pieces per skewer of some of the most tender meat I’ve ever tasted. With a crispy, charred exterior topped with a dot of spicy wasabi paste, each b 48 30726 48 14941 0 0 3074 0 0:00:09 0:00:04 0:00:05 3074ite is better than the last. 


Specific Part of Chicken Thigh


Similarly, the Specific Part of Chicken Thigh (RMB 18) is another major highlight. While a bit fattier than the breast, it is oh so tender and beyond addicting. You can’t go wrong with the Chicken Skin (RMB 15), because let's be honest, who doesn’t love crispy, salty, grilled chicken skin?!

 

Chicken Skin

 

Torishou also boasts a wide selection of grilled veggies and unique side dishes. The Cheese Tofu (RMB 28) isn’t one I would usually think to order, but I kept reaching for more until I realized I’d eaten the whole plate. With a slightly firmer-than-douhua texture, a crispy sear on one side, a rich, almost nutty flavor, and a generous dollop of citrusy yuzu marmalade, this dish is oddly satisfying and really well-balanced when paired with crispy grilled chicken.


Cheese Tofu

 

Compared to the wide variety of outstanding options to choose from, there are a few that made my “miss list.” I was excited for some lip-tingling spice when ordering the Big Chili (RMB 10), but a bit disappointed to receive a somewhat mushy slice of green pepper rather a blistered capsicum. 


Fried Shrimp

 

The Chicken Heart Aorta (RMB 17) is also on the chewy side, making it a challenge to take off the skewer, and the Fried Shrimp (RMB 48) lacked flavor aside from salt. If you're only able to order a couple of dishes, spring for a few of the other items on the menu instead.  

 

Rice Cake


I’m usually not a fan of overly glutinous food, but the Rice Cake (RMB 15) proved me wrong. The crunchy outside slathered in a sweet and salty glaze and the warm, gooey inside made it hard to share with others. 


Shitake Mushroom


The Shitake Mushroom (RMB 10) garnished with freshly grated ginger and the Squash with Mentaiko (RMB 15) are also great veg options for those needing a break between bites of rare chicken parts.

  


From mastering the basics to rewarding the adventurous, Torishou is your dream destination for a Tokyo getaway that costs far less than a plane ticket.

 

TORISHOU

Address: 133 Fuxing West Road

Hours: Monday-Sunday, 5:30pm-1:30am

Tel: 021 6433 4261

Price: Around RMB 100-200 per person


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