Restaurant Review: Madison Kitchen

By Betty Richardson

The Place
We get it. You're bored of hearing that Austin Hu, erstwhile chef of the now-closed Madison is due to open the place again 'soon.' But listen up one more time, because Madison Kitchen is here now and it is the shit.
Whereas Madison was a big restaurant with a full bar, Madison Kitchen is a small six-seat eatery with a kitchen upstairs for prepping ingredients.

The Food
Envisioned as a New York-style delicatessen with a general store vibe, Madison Kitchen sells salads, baked goods, coffee, sodas, cured meats, housemade pickles and some of the most masterful sandwiches we've seen in Shanghai.

The roast beef with horseradish (RMB60) is a purist's dream. Absolutely do not get this sandwich if you like dry, flavorless beef, because this one is rare and juicy and delicious, with unintrusive but fresh bread, lettuce, tomato, and horseradish cream. The beef is Australian Angus top round.

For those of more decadent persuasion, the kimchi grilled cheese sandwich (RMB50) is not fucking kidding around.

Overflowing with molten mozzarella, cheddar, Gruyère and American cheese sandwiched between crisp grilled toast, subtly sour notes of kimchi cut through the fat fest. We were filled with both pride and self-loathing after eating this beautiful monster. The only thing missing is a few drops o' hot sauce, so we'd recommend asking for yours with Sriracha if you like it hot.

More manageable is the meatball sub (RMB50), which is basically what you wish Subway sandwiches were like. With tangy tomato sauce, garlic buttery vibes inside and melted mozzarella on top, this meaty guy is satisfying without making you too full.

Making for a lighter bite is Hu's rendition of the classic lobster roll; fragrant, light, juicy, and RMB100.

If you have any room left after, do yourself a favor and grab a cookie. The smoky sweet 'n' salty flavor of the double chocolate bacon cookie (RMB30) is heavenly, though there are also equally good vegetarian cookies available too (looking at you, chocolate sea salt macadamia).

Food verdict: 2.5/3

The Vibe
Being just six seats, a trip to Madison Kitchen is going to involve sitting in relatively close quarters with your fellow diners. Anticipate getting your order to go and scarfing it down in the nearby park during peak times like lunchtime and weekends.

Hu also tells us the sandwich selection will expand in the coming weeks, along with the selection of preserves, pickles and cured meats like pastrami and cola-brined ham. "I want the shelves to feel abundant and full," Hu tells us. Much the same way you'll feel after you get to work on that grilled cheese.
Vibe verdict: 1/1

Value for Money
Lack of seating may be a problem for larger groups and families, but if you're disposed to eating quickly or on the go, a trip to Madison Kitchen is both gratifying and good value. With the exception of the lobster roll, all the sandwiches currently on offer come in between RMB50-60, and you can really tell they're made with care both when Chef Hu is there and when his staff are helming the controls.
Value for Money: 1/1

TOTAL VERDICT: 4.5/5
Price: RMB50-60 per sandwich
Who's going: locals and expats, the very hungry and/or hungover
Good for: big appetites, sandwiches, takeout, snacks, cookies, coffee, salad

Madison Kitchen, 1414 Huaihai Zhong Lu, by Fuxing Zhong Lu.

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