Restaurant Review: Palmetto
By Betty Richardson
The Place
There isn't a lot of Southern comfort in Shanghai these days. Over the past year or so we've seen Southern Belle, Bubba's Texas Bar-B-Q and Ruijin Caijun all bow out. The city seems to have moved on, to poke bowls, gastrolounges and green smoothies.
A small revival comes in the form of Palmetto, an affordable Southern kitchen (in the same location as aforementioned Ruijin Cajun, who are currently looking for a new spot) in Jing'an. Thank the Lord, they've assumed the mantle of making proper fried chicken, something surprisingly few Shanghai restaurants aside from Korean chain Kyochon are prepared to undertake.
The Food
With chef Gavin McAleer in the kitchen cooking a concise but powerful menu designed by Chef Jason Oakley (he of fancy establishments Coquille and Scarpetta) Palmetto serves feel good food in feel stuffed portions. Prepare for an onslaught of rootin' tootin' Southern soul food porn.
One standout is the hot cornbread (RMB18) baked in the shape of delicate ears of corn served with chilled pats of sorghum butter (a hard-to-find Southern throwback), which melts into it enticingly. No joke, the the sorghum syrup butter tastes like cookie dough to us, and is as good a substitute for eating the forbidden treat as we've found (apparently it's the raw flour not the raw eggs, in case you're wondering).
Savory palates might enjoy the hushpuppies (RMB18) more – a similar cornbread batter, deep-fried and lightly spiced like a kind of Southern falafel. These are accompanied by a dip of full-bodied Alabama white sauce, which makes your average simpering bottled ranch look like the useless puddle that it so often is.
A big portion of poutine (RMB58) sees Palmetto's Southern memorandum take a jaunt to Canada, though any Canadians reading, be aware that this version uses melted cheese rather than the customary cheese curds. It's tasty, but not an essential part of your order when there's vittles like cornbread and pimento cheese (RMB48) for the taking.
From the mains, we wholeheartedly recommend the fried chicken (RMB68) – surely the reason behind any visit to Palmetto. Choose between white or dark meat and grilled or fried (is that even a question you have to think about?!) and dig into your golden brown two-piece.
Palmetto's handsome array of hot sauces bring the heat, ranging from classics like Frank's and Tabasco to rather tasty homemade options.
At a bargainous RMB98, Palmetto's country fried steak isn't wagyu territory, but thanks to its Colonel Sanders approved coating and thin slicing, it comes off as tender and tasty. Taking the creamy mashed potatoes and bisuit into account it's more carb than protein, but let's face it, you're not here to diet.
With that in mind, Palmetto's pork ribs also put up a fair fight. By themselves they lack flavor, but luckily the tangy and faintly sweet BBQ sauce on the side does rectify this. Besides, there are a lot of them for RMB148.
Dessert ends on a high note: pumpkin pie with housemade buttermilk ice cream, a simple but well-executed little tart. We've heard that the buttermilk ice cream will also be put to use in a forthcoming milkshake, along with cornbread.
Food verdict: 2.5/3
The Vibe
It's hard not to respect Palmetto's dedication to its pure Southern theme, which, poutine aside, sticks to the brief with unwavering dedication. Vibe-wise the place is homely and comfortable, with the overall feeling of a Guy Fieri restaurant that doesn't suck.
The only thing that makes us nervous is the location, perhaps a stretch too far North for the expat crowd a restaurant like this needs. Nevertheless, affordable quality has a way of drawing people in – here's hoping Palmetto keeps its spirit strong.
Vibe verdict: 1.5/2
TOTAL VERDICT: 4/5
Price: RMB100-250 per person
Who's going: mainly expats
Good for: comfort food, casual dining, groups, Southern American food
Palmetto, Bldg A3-1, 800 Changde Lu, by Changping Lu 常德路800号秦公馆1楼A3-1号, 近昌平路
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