Fablab O Shanghai | 中国“数制”工坊开始研究“织(智)造学术”了(第一部分)！

Textile Academy @ Fablab O Shanghai / 中国“数制”工坊-“织(智)造学术”

 并将在明年在上海开始接受该课程的报名。

  How to “wear” (almost) anything. / 如何“穿着”（几乎）万物   

The Fabricademy (Fabric+Academy) is the newest addition to the courses developed by the Fablab Network, after Fab Academy and Bio Academy. It is a transdisciplinary course that focuses on the development of new technologies applied in the textile industry, in its broad range of applications, from fashion to soft robotics, to innovative bio-materials and wearable electronics.

Fabricademy（Fabric+ Academy）是继Fab Network和Bio Academy之后，Fablab Network开发的最新课程。这是一个跨学科的课程，重点放在发展应用于纺织工业的新技术，从时尚到软机器人到创新的生物材料和可穿戴电子产品等广泛的应用。

This course, as well as Fab Academy, whose new edition will start in 2018 at FABO,is an international program, running in 15 Fablabs around the world. Every week all the nodes connect online on a video conference to attend the live classes directed by the two flagship Fablabs in Amsterdam Waag Society and Barcelona IAAC.Students from Milan, Paris, Vancouver, Mexico City, Sao Paulo, Shanghai are all connected at the same time to review their weekly work, interact with each other and share their experiences.

这个课程和Fab Academy一样，将于2018年在FABO开始新的版本，这是一个在全球15个Fablab上运行的国际化项目。每个星期，所有节点都通过视频会议在线连接，参加阿姆斯特丹Waag协会和巴塞罗那IAAC两个旗舰Fablab的直播课程。来自米兰，巴黎，温哥华，墨西哥城，圣保罗，上海的学生们都在同一时间连接在一起，回顾他们的每周工作，互相交流，分享他们的经验。

Fablab O Shanghai joined the program as a hosting node in October and our class director Saverio has enrolled to be trained as an instructor. The challenge isn ot an easy one, but indeed very engaging: three months of seminars and learning modules with one assignment to complete every week, and other three months to focus on an individual research and final project.

Fablab O Shanghai于十月份作为主办方加入该计划，我们的课程总监Saverio已经接受了培训，成为了一名导师。这个挑战并不容易，但确实非常地有吸引力：届时将会有为期三个月的研讨会和学习模块，每周完成一项任务，另外的三个月是专注于个人研究和最终项目。

Saverio,why did you decide to enroll in the class?

‘I think this course offers a great opportunity to learn new things and experiment new applications for digital fabrication. I am basing my partecipation in the class on the objective of making as much research as possible on the various disciplines as well as getting a good training to be able to be the local instructor next year.’

Saverio，你为什么决定参加课程？

“我认为这门课程提供了一个学习新事物和试验数字制造的新应用的绝佳机会。我在参加这个班的基础上，尽可能地对各个不同学科进行研究，并在明年做好本地教员的培训。”

Who are the students that joined the class abroad?

‘There are students of any age and backgrounds. Some of them comes from fashion design schools where they learnt the traditional approach to this industry but no innovative applications. Some are professionals willing to explore new methods and techniques. It is very encouraging to notice that this academy attracted a large numbers of female students, where male attendance is normally higher in any fablab activity.’

加入课程中的外国学生是谁呢？

“这里有着任何年龄和背景的学生，他们中的一些人来自时装设计学校，他们在这个行业学到了传统的方法，但缺少创新的应用，还有一些专家，他们愿意探索新的方法和技术。令人鼓舞的是，这个学院吸引了大量的女生，而通常情况下，fablab里面都是男生的出勤率更高。”

We are at the mid term of the class, can you tell us what have you been doing so far?

‘We went through the first 7 classes already. In the first assignment, as in the other Academany courses, the students are asked to make a documentation website. This is one of the strenght of the Fablab Network, making cool things and documenting them so that anyone can learn and make their own! You can take a look at my website at this link:

http://saveriosilli.fabcloud.io/fabricademy-saveriosilli.’

我们正处在课程的中期，你能告诉我们你到目前为止做了些什么吗？

“我们已经经历了前7节课程。 在第一个任务中，和其他学院的课程一样，要求学生建立一个文档网站。这是Fablab Network的强项之一，制作酷酷的东西并记录下来，以便任何人都可以学习和制作自己的项目！ 你可以看看我的网站链接：

http://saveriosilli.fabcloud.io/fabricademy-saveriosilli。”

Can you explain us in which way you are applying digital fabrication to textiles and fashion?

‘This is the interesting part of this course, I'm mixing skills and techniques from very different disciplines and using them to make something completely new and unprecedented in a Fablab. For example, week four was about Bio Dyes and Biofabrics:  I started with a walk to the fresh market to buy some purple sweet potatoes, then I boiled them to extract the purple pigment. Before using it to dye silk and cotton I made some experiments with vinegar and baking soda to alter the PH of the pigment andchange the color from purple to pink and green respectively.’

你能解释一下我们是用什么方式将数字制作应用到纺织品和时装上吗？

“这正是本课程中有趣的部分，我将来自不同学科的技能和技术结合在一起，并使用它们在Fablab中创造出全新的，前所未有的东西。例如，第四周是关于生物染料和生物纤维：我去市场购买一些新鲜的紫薯，然后通过煮制它们提取紫色素。在将丝绸和棉花染色之前，我用醋和小苏打做了一些实验，改变了颜料的pH值，将颜色从紫色分别变成了粉红色和绿色。”

‘This week was also the first opportunity to test Fablab O's newly built Bio Hack Lab. It is placed into a shipping container facing Angry Birds Plaza and it is equipped to conduct experiments on organic and bio materials.’

“本周也是第一次测试Fablab O新建的生物实验室的机会。它被放置在一个面向‘愤怒的小鸟广场’的集装箱内，并且进行有机和生物材料的实验。”

‘In Fablab Amsterdam Waag Society, they have a long established “wet-lab” another name for a biology lab, and during this week they made truly interesting experiments with bio-plastic and cultivating pigmented bacterias to use them as fabric dyes.’

“在Fablab阿姆斯特丹的Waag协会，他们有一个长期建立的生物实验室，也被叫做‘湿实验室’。在这个星期他们做了十分有趣的实验，用生物塑料和培养色素细菌的方式用作织物的染料。”

‘On week three we had a class by Italian fashion designer Zoe Romano, based in Milan's Wemake Fablab, and she describedus the concept of “Open Source Fashion” to designing a modular clothing system.For the assignment I created many small tiles using felt that was lasercut.Thanks to its particular design the modules can be assembled togheter to create each time a new style.’

“第三周，我们在意大利时装设计师佐伊·罗马诺的米兰WemakeFablab里上课，她向我们介绍了“开源时尚“的概念，设计了一个模块化的服装系统。对于这个作业，我使用镭射切割的毛毡制作了许多小的瓷砖。由于其特殊的设计，这些模块每次都可以组装成新的样式。”

‘Another student, Sofia Guridi, made something similar using fabric and thanks to her background as a fashion designer she was able to create a beautiful dress where the sleeves are made of the modules she designed. The strenght of Open Fashion Design is that one can decide to modify the style of a dress at any given time, simply reassembling the modules in a new way. ’

“另一位学生索非亚·古里迪用布料制作了一些类似的东西，由于她作为时装设计师的背景，她得以制作一件漂亮的裙子，袖子是由她设计的模块制成。开放时尚设计的优势在于，人们可以决定在任何时候修改服装的风格，只需要以新的方式重新组装模块。”

‘On week two I really enjoyed making a 3D scan of myself and using the 3D model to create a lasercut structure that I assembled into a 1:1 scale of my self！ I called this a Me-nnequin and I will use it troughout the class to style the creation I will make to perfectly suit myself.’

“在第二周，我很享受对自己进行3D扫描，我使用3D模型创建了一个激光切割结构，我把它组装成1：1的比例。我把这个称为是‘Me-nnequin’，我将会在整个课堂上用它来塑造完全适合我自己的作品。”

‘On week five we had our first encounter with wearable electronics and for my assignment I wanted to make a soft version of a potentiometer using conductive fabric and a resistive film. It is styled as a bracelet band and by sliding the buckle left or right you can change thecolor of a RGB LED. I designed and fabricated a small PCB board with an Attiny44 powered by a 3.2 Volts button battery. I called it a Mood-band becazuse you can use it to show others the “color of your mood”.’

“在第五周，我们第一次接触到可穿戴电子设备，为了完成任务，我想用导电织物和电阻薄膜制作一个电位计的软性版本。它被称为手镯带，通过向左或向右滑动扣可以改变RGB LED的颜色。 我设计并制造了一个由3.2伏纽扣电池供电的Attiny44小型PCB板，我将它称之为情绪乐团，我们可以用它来向别人展示‘心情的颜色’。”

‘Another assignment consisted in exploring the huge opportunities given by parametric design, especially using a visual coding plugin for Rhino 3D called Grasshopper. This tools allows you to create parametric definied shapes that are generated automatically by your computer using data taken from other sources. For example a bracelet whose shape was generated using data from the weather forecast！’

“还有另外一个任务是探索参数化设计带来的巨大机遇，特别是使用Rhino3D的一个名为Grasshopper的视觉编码插件。这个工具允许你定义和创建参数化的形状，这些形状是由你的计算机使用其他来源的数据自动生成的。例如一根手镯，它的形状是使用天气预报的数据所生成的！

It looks like you have been enjoying these projects! What is coming next?

‘This course is very engaging and I'm having a lot of fun making researches and learning new stuff in a “Learning By Doing”environment such as Fablab O Shanghai. And this is only the first month and a half into this amazing class, in the next weeks we are going to try ourselves with Parametric Couture, 3D printing on fabrics, Soft Robotics and Skin Electronics！’

看起来你一直很享受这些项目！ 接下来还会有什么呢？

“这个课程真的非常有趣，我很喜欢在Fablab O Shanghai这样的“做中学”的环境下进行研究和学习新的事物，而这只是这个惊人的课程的第一个半月，在接下来的几周里，我们将尝试使用ParametricCouture，SoftRobotics和SkinElectronics！

If you want to know more about this course and about Saverio's researches, come！

如果你想了解有关于本课程以及有关Saverio研究的更多内容，就请快来了解并参与其中吧！

Saverio Silli（意大利）

Fablab O｜中国“数制”工坊课程开发导师，同济大学设计创意学院，研究助理，2015年全球Fab Academy课程毕业生；

曾是建筑师、产品设计师和数字制造专家，并曾担任法国巴黎Fablab实验室课程主任，意大利罗马创客嘉年华（MakerFaire）项目负责人。

图文：Saverio Silli

编辑/翻译：王诗瑶

责编：丁峻峰

更多精彩内容 

 往期内容回顾 

Fablab O - 中国"数制"工坊

自中国第一个“数制”工坊开放实验室- Fablab O同济创办以来，FABO立足建立国内创新生态圈，把各个学校、企业和社区的公共平台链接起来，对接国内外优良资源、资本，促进中国创新和创意的市场转化，助力新一轮的互联网和智能自造的创业浪潮。在过去两年里FABO举办了包括100多期跨学科的开放夜；50多期软硬件工作坊；可穿戴、参数化暑期学校，承办了2014,2015,2016教育部中美青年创客大赛上海选拔赛、2015科技部浦江创新论坛-创客和社会革新文化论坛、2016,2017海峡两岸青年创客大赛，2015中日韩智能可穿戴大赛，孵化10几个创新项目。目前除了 Fablab O 上海的同济大学和浦东实验室以外， Fablab O -Shenzhen “数制”工坊深圳站于2015年6月落户深圳龙岗中心区， Fablab O －Suzhou “数制”工坊苏州站前几周刚落户高新区。

Asthe first built fablab in mainland China, FABO undertakesthree missions: community construction (FABO C), education (FABO U) andentrepreneurship (FABO I). FABO is based on the establishment ofnationalinnovation ecosystem, trying to link public platform in schools,businesses andcommunities, dock excellent domestic and foreign resources,ventral capital,and promote innovation and creativity into the market, help newround wave ofinnovation and entrepreneurship in China. In the past two years,FABO has held over 100 interdisciplinary open-nights, more than 50 workshopstopics on open softwareand hardware, and has hosted US-China Youth MakerContest three times, Intelligent Wearable Contest among China, Japan and Koreaonce, PUJIANG INNOVATION FORUM 2015, besides, has also hatched adozeninnovative projects. Currently apart from Fablab O Shanghai, Fablab O -Shenzhenwas settled in Shenzhen Longong District in June 2015 and also FablabO - Suzhousettledin Suzhou New District just a few weeks before.