CHI - The Art Manifestation in a World of Commerce
在80年代的纽约，涂鸦艺术成为一种具有美学意义的现象。艺术家让-米歇尔·巴斯奎特(Jean-Michel Basquiat)是20世纪80年代这种艺术风格最杰出的代表之一。 他最初是一名以SAMO的名义工作的涂鸦艺术家。他在离现代艺术博物馆不远的曼哈顿创作涂鸦，这让他得以与艺术世界互动。 他是最早将涂鸦作为概念艺术进行创作的人之一，而不是将涂鸦当作像以前那种危险活动的代名词。 例如，在20世纪70年代，涂鸦艺术家通常会在火车或墙上留下他们的标记，作为一种很酷的破坏行为。但巴斯奎特不同。In the 80s in New York, the art of graffiti became an aesthetically meaningful phenomenon. The artist Jean-Michel Basquiat was one of the most prominent representatives of this art style in the 1980s. He started as a graffiti artist, working under the assumed name SAMO. He created graffiti in Manhattan, not far from museums of modern art, which thus allowed him to interact with the art world. He was one of the first to engage in graffiti as conceptual art, rather than a dangerous activity that it was previously synonymous with. For example, in the 1970s, it would have been common for graffiti artists to leave their marks on trains or walls as a form of cool vandalism. But Basquiat was different.
这位艺术家在他的作品中寻求自我表达。他的艺术充满挑衅，因为他涉及许多有争议的问题，如种族主义。一开始，他没有钱，所以他画在临时材料上：香蕉盒上，或冰箱门上。他的贫困生活很快就结束了。他的艺术作品的社会取向引起了艺术界的关注，不久他就开始展出他的绘画作品。后来，艺术评论家 Rene Richard在标志性的艺术杂志《艺术论坛》上发表了一篇文章《光彩夺目的孩子》。在那之后，巴斯奎特广受欢迎。他的艺术作品甚至激励了那些他崇拜的人，比如20世纪60年代流行艺术的主要艺术家安迪·沃霍尔（Andy Warhol）和日本品牌Comme des Garçons的创始人川久保玲 （Rei Kawakubo）。川久保玲甚至邀请身着淡蓝色西装、黑色带扣凉鞋、白色衬衫和白色领结的 Jean-Michel 参加1987年的Comme des Garçons春夏时装秀。The artist sought self-expression in his work. His art was a provocation, because he covered many controversial issues, like racism. At first, he had no money, so he painted on improvised materials: on banana boxes, or refrigerator doors. His period of living in poverty ended quickly enough. The social orientation of his artwork attracted attention of the art world, and soon he began to exhibit his paintings. Later, an art critic, Rene Richard published an article “The Radiant Child”, in the iconic art magazine Art Forum. After that Basquiat gained wide popularity. His artworks inspired even those who were his idols, like leading artists of the 1960s Pop Art, Andy Warhol and Rei Kawakubo, the founder of a Japanese brand, Comme des Garçons. She even invited Jean-Michel to participate in the Comme des Garçons Spring-Summer 1987 fashion-show, dressed in a pale blue suit, black sandals with buckles, a white shirt and a white bow tie.
巴斯奎特最初的穿衣方式本身就是一种艺术。他最具辨识度的装扮是涂满颜料的阿玛尼（ Armani ）西装，这成了他的一种制服。他穿着他这种制服参加了展览的开幕式和派对，同时他也穿着同样的服装画他的作品。“我喜欢他选择穿阿玛尼这个事实， 而且更喜欢他在我的西装上画的画。 我设计人们穿的衣服，供人们享受，他就是其中的践行者！”。乔治•阿玛尼(Giorgio Armani)曾经说过。Basquiat`s original way of dressing became an art in itself. His most recognizable look was in paint-drenched Armani suits, which became a kind of his uniform. He went to the opening of exhibitions and parties in them, and at the same time he painted his artwork in the same costume. “I loved the fact that he chose to wear Armani. And loved even more that he painted in my suits. I design clothes to be worn, for people to live in, and he certainly did!”, Giorgio Armani once said.
巴斯奎特的成功伴随着严重的毒瘾。 他于1988年8月12日因服用过量而死亡。那时他只有27岁。 巴斯奎特去世三十年后，他仍然是美国最昂贵的艺术家之一。 时至今日，他的作品仍对时尚产生影响，并成为许多时装系列的参考。 2009年，运动服品牌锐步（Reebok）推出了 将体育与艺术相结合的 “会员艺术”计划。 在创作该系列时，该品牌引用了包括Jean-Michel Basquiat在内的不同艺术家的作品。然后，2013年，作为“会员艺术”计划的结果，Reebock发布了一款秋冬系列，以印有巴斯奎特艺术图案的运动鞋为特色。The success of Basquiat was accompanied by severe drug addiction. He died from an overdose on August 12, 1988. He was only 27 years old. Three decades after Basquiat's death, he is still one of America's most expensive artists. Today, his works still have an influence on fashion, and become a reference in the many fashion collections. In 2009, the sportswear brand Reebok launched the "Affiliate'art" program, to combine sport and art. On the creation of the line, the brand referenced different artists, including Jean-Michel Basquiat. Then, in 2013 as the result of the "Affiliate'art" program, Reebok released a Fall-Winter line, featuring sneakers decorated with prints of Basquiat art.。
2013年下半年，另一个品牌也向Jean-Michel Basquiat致敬。Supreme推出了2013秋冬系列，其中一件推出的作品是M-65夹克，上面印着巴斯奎特的画作《凯瑟斯·克莱》(Cassius Clay, 1982)。这件艺术品是一幅用白色和红色绘制的拳击手凯瑟斯·克莱（Mohamed Ali）的肖像。该系列还包括印有巴斯奎特肖像的T恤衫和连帽衫。Later in 2013 another brand also paid a tribute to Jean-Michel Basquiat. Supreme presented the Fall-Winter 2013 collection, one of the pieces introduced was M-65 jacket with a print of Basquiat`s painting, Cassius Clay,(1982). This artwork is a portrait of the boxer Cassius Clay (Mohamed Ali) painted in white and red. The collection also included t-shirts and hoodies depicted the portrait of Basquiat.
让-米歇尔·巴斯奎特(Jean-Michel Basquiat)的艺术作品也出现在日本品牌优衣库(Uniqlo)的系列中。2014年，该品牌推出了与曼哈顿现代艺术博物馆(MoMA)合作的新项目SPRZ NY或Surprise NewYork. SPRZ NY系列旨在将流行艺术和大众市场结合起来。因此，他们制作了引用安迪·沃霍尔(Andy Warhol)、基思·哈林(Keith Haring)和让-米歇尔·巴斯奎特(Jean-Michel Basquiat)艺术作品的T恤。The art of Jean-Michel Basquiat also appeared in the collections of the Japanese brand Uniqlo. In 2014 the brand presented a new project SPRZ NY or Surprise New York, created with the Museum of Modern Art in Manhattan (MoMA). The SPRZ NY series, was aimed at uniting pop-art and the mass-market. As a result, they produced T-shirts referencing the artwork of Andy Warhol, Keith Haring and Jean-Michel Basquiat.
让-米歇尔·巴斯奎特的作品不仅启发了时装设计师，也启发了其他人。2017年，美丽品牌“城市衰变”（Urban Decay）的创始人温德·索尼尔（Wende Somnir）发布了一系列限量的化妆品，专门为这位艺术家设计。包括眼线笔、唇膏、眼影、腮红等12种产品，甚至还有一个化妆包。一切都被巴斯奎特的画覆盖着。The work of Jean-Michel Basquiat inspired not only fashion designers but also others. In 2017, Wende Somnir, the founder of the beauty brand, Urban Decay released a limited collection of cosmetics dedicated to the artist. It included 12 products, including eyeliners, lipsticks, eye shadow, blush and even a cosmetic bag. Everything was covered with Basquiat's paintings.
2018年，为了纪念让-米歇尔·巴斯奎特（Jean-Michel Basquiat）去30周年，Comme des Garçons将秋冬系列献给了这位艺术家。其中包括男式棉衬衫和印有巴斯奎特作品的T恤，如Untitle（1981）、Cabeza（1982）和Ernok（1983）。In 2018, commemorating the 30 years after Jean-Michel Basquiat's death, Comme des Garçons dedicated the Fall-Winter collection to the artist. It included men's cotton shirts and t-shirts with prints based on the artist's works such as Untitled (1981), Cabeza (1982), and Ernok (1983).
随后，在2018年12月，巴斯奎特的作品出现在意大利品牌“Off-White”的2018秋冬胶囊系列中。展出的t恤、裤子、夹克和帽衫上都印有这位艺术家的辨识度很高的照片，这种照片还用于智能手机的硅胶外壳。据该品牌的执行董事Virgil Abloh说， 巴斯奎特是纽约文化与美国艺术传统之间的重要纽带，这也成为Off-White灵感的主要主题之一。Later, in December 2018, Basquiat's work appeared in the capsule Fall-Winter 2018 collection of the Italian brand, “Off-White”. It featured t-shirts, trousers, jackets and hoodies with recognizable prints of the artist, as well as silicone cases for smartphones. According to Virgil Abloh, the brand's Executive Director, Basquiat was an important link between New York culture and American art traditions, which became one of the main themes for Off-White`s inspiration.
2020年2月，在纽约时装周期间，美国时尚品牌Coach推出了2020/2021秋冬系列，灵感来自80年代纽约的生活方式，特别是Jean-Michel Basquiat的艺术。他的一些画作，如《车祸》（1980）或《伽利略伽利略》（1983）装饰了外套、运动衫和配饰。In February 2020, during New York Fashion Week , American fashion brand, Coach presented the Fall – Winter 2020/2021 collection, inspired by the New York`s lifestyle in the 80s, in particular, by the art of Jean-Michel Basquiat. Some of his paintings, like Car Crash (1980), or Galileo Galilei (1983) decorate coats, sweatshirts and accessories.
让-米歇尔·巴斯奎特以新表现主义的风格创作绘画。他的思想、绘画和生活方式启发了许多设计师，并继续影响着时尚的创作。Jean-Michel Basquiat created paintings in the style of neo-expressionism. His ideas, paintings, and lifestyle have inspired many designers, and continue to influence the creation of fashion.
by Arina Yakupova for CHI
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