香奈儿的“老佛爷”驾鹤西去了
2019年2月20日，星期三
陌上美国
2019年2月19日，离米兰时装周只有两天，21世纪最具影响力的时尚风向标、法国设计界的头面人物、香奈儿首席时装设计师卡尔·拉格菲尔德（Karl Lagerfeld）因胰腺癌在巴黎病逝，享年85岁。
Guest of a Guest
拉格菲尔德引领时尚潮流超过半个多世纪，他以其罕见的创意、非凡的时尚天份，在设计中嵌入文化和历史之美。同时他也是一位令人印象深刻的语言学家，精通德语、英语、法语和西班牙语。
拉格菲尔德出生于德国汉堡，是一位富有商人的儿子。他从小就对服饰感兴趣，四岁时向父母要的生日礼物竟然是一个衣帽挂熨架！年幼时经常陪妈妈看迪奥时装秀，因此爱上时装这个行当。在圣安妮学校接受教育之后，随家人移居法国，拉格菲尔德在Lycée Montaigne完成学业，主攻绘画和历史学。
1955年，初出茅庐的拉格菲尔德在国际羊毛局赞助的时装设计竞赛中脱颖而出，获得外套类大奖，从此正式步入时尚界。从Pierre Balmain的助手开始，到参与设计十个高级时装系列。于1964年开始，为法国名牌Chloé设计系列时装。之后他开始与Fendi合作，创作了Fendi的成衣系列。1982年，被香奈儿董事长阿兰·韦特海默(Alain Wertheimer)聘为首席设计师。两年后创立了以自己名字命名的时装系列，Karl Lagerfeld，并在2005年将该品牌卖给了Tommy Hilfiger集团。
从1983年开始，他掌舵著名时尚品牌香奈儿(Chanel)。三十多年来，他以独特的文艺复兴般的智慧重新创造了香奈尔品牌。他的知名作品包括Chanel夹克和西装，黑色小礼服，粗花呢，双色鞋，缝纫手提包，香奈儿的标志型联锁C型标记，珍珠和人造珠宝。
黑色小礼服
拉格菲尔德是一个勇于挑战的人。接手香奈尔时，他已经成名。当“别人告诉他，不要碰（香奈尔）这个烫手山芋”时，他接受了这个挑战，并用自己擅长的现代主义，重新定义时尚代码，向品牌创始人可可·香奈尔致敬：
“我做的可能是可可讨厌的。这个商标已经有一个形象，我负责进一步更新。我做了一些她从未做过的事情。留下了我的印记。我必须从香奈儿的辉煌过去开拓出具有无数可能性的闪亮未来。“
"What I do Coco would have hated. The label has an image and it's up to me to update it. I do what she never did. I had to find my mark. I had to go from what Chanel was to what it should be, could be, what it had been to something else."
除了他的设计才华外，拉格菲尔德还是一名摄影师和电影制作人，并定期将香奈儿的传统融入电影和影像之中。他还拍摄并创造性地指导香奈儿的所有广告。
这个被时尙界尊为“老佛爷”的业界大牛，在自己喜爱并擅长的时装界工作超过六十年，一直到生命的最后一刻。正如他所说的那样：
“我为什么要停止工作呢？如果我这样做，我会死的，一切都完了。我很幸运能够在最完美的条件下工作。我可以在各种领域做我想做的事。花费并不昂贵。不工作实在太愚蠢了。工作让生活不至于无聊。“
"Why should I stop working? If I do, I'll die and it'll all be finished. I'm lucky to work in the most perfect of conditions. I can do what I want in all kinds of areas. The expenses are not expenses. I would be stupid to stop that. Work is making a living out of being bored."
拉格菲尔德是一个有趣的人。不仅才华横溢，而且形像独特，经常语不惊人誓不休，各种金句流传于江湖。
他的标志性打扮十分抢眼：一头白发扎成的马尾，蛤蟆大墨镜，燕尾白衬衫配超宽领带，无指手套。
Guest of a Guest
2007年，他点评自己难以模仿的造型：
“我就像是对自己的漫画，我喜欢这样。它就像一个面具。对我而言，一整年都在持续威尼斯狂欢节。”
"I am like a caricature of myself, and I like that. It is like a mask. And for me the Carnival of Venice lasts all year long."
当他在电视访谈中被要求取下太阳镜时，他拒绝了，并且解释道：
“他们是我的面纱......我有点近视，近视眼的人摘下眼镜后看起来像想要被收养的可爱小狗。”
"They're my burka... I'm a little shortsighted, and people, when they're shortsighted, they remove their glasses and then they look like cute little dogs who want to be adopted."
对他的著名的白色马尾辫，他说：
“当我厌倦了时尚的长卷发——因为我的头发是天然卷——我开始系上[马尾辫]。那是在1976年。所以这意味着我已经系了35或36年的马尾辫！ 这是最简单的发型。我不是很喜欢弄发型。不喜欢发胶和所有美发产品。不过这种白色很完美，因为我的头发根本没那么雪白。”
"When I was tired of the fashion for long, curly hair-because my hair was curly-I started to attach [the ponytail]. It was in 1976. So that means that I have had the ponytail for 35 or 36 years! Not bad, no? It's the easiest hairdo. I'm not very gifted for hairdos. I don't like gel and all those products. It's perfect with this white powder, because my hair is not that white at all."
他没有解释过无指手套。不过可能与他妈妈评价他的手指有关。
“我14岁的时候，想抽烟，因为我的母亲吸烟吸得像疯了一样。我想看起来像大人。但我母亲说：'你不应该抽烟。你的手型不那么漂亮，一抽烟就露拙了。'”
"When I was 14, I wanted to smoke because my mother smoked like mad. I wanted to smoke to look grown-up. But my mother said: 'You shouldn't smoke. Your hands are not that beautiful and that shows when you smoke.'"
Newsweek
对于时尙人士所喜欢的纹身，他表示厌恶：
“我觉得纹身很可怕。就像穿着Pucci贴身礼服一样。如果你年轻、身型紧致，也许没问题，但......”
"I think tattoos are horrible. It's like living in a Pucci dress full-time. If you're young and tight, maybe it's OK, but…"
人在花丛过，片叶不沾身。虽然常年被美女模特包围，他一生未婚。1997年 ，他这样形容自己的日常生活：
“我住在舞台上，虽然帷幕巳拉下，没了观众——但是谁在乎呢？”
"I live in a set, with the curtains of the stage closed with no audience - but who cares?"
Google Sites
精致而讲究写在他的血液里。时时刻刻注意自己形象，每天睡觉前他都像是去赴约一般。2009年，他这么解释自己的洁癖：
“在我上床睡觉之前，我要把自己捯饬得无可挑剔地清洁。和我出门之前收拾打扮一样认真。当我还是个孩子的时候，我的妈妈总是告诉我，你有可能在半夜醒来，发现自己快病死了，所以你总是要无可挑剔。当时我笑了，但现在我认为每个人都应该整洁干净地上床睡觉，就像门口马上有个约会一样。“
"I'm very impeccable and clean before I go to bed. It's just like right before I'm going out. When I was a child, my mother always told me that you could wake up in the middle of the night and be deathly sick, so you always have to be impeccable. I laugh about it now, but I think everyone should go to bed like they have a date at the door."
除了讲究外貌形象，他的口味独特。他曾经说过，最体现房子装修品味的是垃圾筒。
他认为虚荣心有其积极意义。说虚荣心是自己保持健康的法宝之一：
“虚荣是生命中最健康的东西。”
"Vanity is the healthiest thing in life."
为了穿上自己喜欢的、Hedi Slimane专为苗条人设计的迪奥西装，他减肥成功：
“好吧，来自迪奥的Hedi Slimane的这个新的时装系列，只有苗条的人才穿得进。它似手在说：'你想穿这个吗？瘦到只剩骨头。' 所以我决定减肥。一把减掉了88磅，并且没有回弹。“
"Well, there came this new line from Hedi Slimane at Dior that you needed to be slim to wear. It said: 'You want this? Go back to your bones.' And so I lost it all. I lost 88 pounds and never got them back."
至于他那著名的减肥食谱：
“我减肥成功，我的医生赚钱成功。我们卖了将近一百万本书。我从不吃糖，奶酪，面包......这是一种非常好，非常健康的生活方式，我完全不费吹灰之力地做到生命中最好的举动。我只喜欢吃被允许喜欢的食物。我超越了诱惑。没有任何弱点。当我在工作室看到给我们每个人的大量食物时，对我来说这些食物像是塑料做成的，我都不会去想竟然有人愿意把它放进嘴里。就像森林里的动物一样，它们不会碰它们不能吃的东西。“
"I made a diet and my doctor made money that way. We sold nearly a million copies. I never touch sugar, cheese, bread... It was a very good, healthy thing, the best move in my life, I think, but it's totally effortless. I only like what I'm allowed to like. I'm beyond temptation. There is no weakness. When I see tons of food in the studio, for us and for everybody, for me it's as if this stuff was made out of plastic. The idea doesn't even enter my mind that a human being could put that into their mouth. I'm like the animals in the forest. They don't touch what they cannot eat."
他对时尚元素有独特的见解：
“时尚像蛋黄酱，决定了菜肴是好吃还是难吃。”
"Chic is a kind of mayonnaise, either it tastes, or it doesn't."
当有人称其为败家子，他阐述自己的消费观：
“如果你把钱扔出窗外，就要高高兴兴地扔。不要说：'不应该这样做' ——这是平庸之人。”
"If you throw money out of the window throw it out with joy. Don’t say: 'one shouldn’t do that' - that is bourgeois."
他没有子女：
“他们长得如此之快，成年的孩子会让你看起来像100岁的老年人。我不想这样。”
"They grow so fast, and having adult children makes you look 100 years old. I don’t want that."
2010年——关于想要孩子：
“如果我对孩子感兴趣，我会成为教父。”
"If I were interested in children, I would be a godfather."
母亲对他的影响很大。提到自己的童年：
“我非常像一个成年人。我有一个戴着领带的孩童照片，和我今天一样。”
"I was very much like a grown-up. I have photos of me as a child wearing a tie, and it's the same as I am today."
还有受到母亲影响的时尚口味：
“我有点喜欢帽子，但是当我还是个八岁左右的孩子时，我会戴上蒂罗尔的帽子，而我的母亲对我说：'你不应该戴帽子。这让你看起来像个老人。' 你会对孩子这么说吗？她很好笑，对吧？“
"I love hats, in a way, but when I was a child, I'd wear Tyrolean hats, and my mother - I was something like eight - said to me: 'You shouldn't wear hats. You look like an old dyke.' Do you say such things to children? She was quite funny, no?"
至于成名：
“你不能反对它。你必须为成名付出代价，不愿意付代价就会有麻烦。我接受了成名人的想法，因为有法国谚语说：'你不能既拿到黄油又不交出买黄油的钱。'“
"You cannot fight against it. There's a price you have to pay for fame, and people who don't want to pay that price can get in trouble. I accepted the idea of celebrity because of a French expression: 'You cannot have the butter and the money for the butter.'"
他调侃政治正确创造无聊：
“坚持政治正确，但请不要打扰其他人谈论政治正确，因为这是一切的结束。你想创造无聊？在谈话中政治正确就可。”
"Be politically correct, but please don't bother other people with conversation about being politically correct, because that's the end of everything. You want to create boredom? Be politically correct in your conversation."
他反对动物虐待，但认为讨论皮草问题很孩子气：
“农民对奶牛和猪很友好，最后还是杀死它们。农民甚至比猎人更虚伪。至少猎人不会恭维动物。我不喜欢屠宰动物，更不喜欢世上流行的人类互相残杀。“
"It is farmers who are nice to the cows and the pigs and then kill them. It's even more hypocritical than hunters. At least the hunters don't flatter the animals. I don't like that people butcher animals, but I don't like them to butcher humans either, which is apparently very popular in the world."
他坦言：
“这正是我的本性。作为一个孩子，我想成为一个成年人。我想知道一切——并不是我喜欢谈论它。我讨厌与知识分子的知识性对话，因为我只关心我的意见。”
"That's exactly what I am. As a child I wanted to be a grown-up. I wanted to know everything - not that I like to talk about it. I hate intellectual conversation with intellectuals because I only care about my opinion."
关于读书：
“我不会谈论这个。我喜欢阅读传记，历史，哲学之类的书。但是这是我的私事，而不是用来让人们评论的，哦，这个愚蠢的人有多机灵。我不会做知识分子。我很肤浅。我只是一名时装设计师。时装设计师看时尚杂志，没错吧？“
"I will not talk about that. I like to read biographies, history, philosophical things like this. But it’s for my private use, and not for making people say, Oh, how clever this stupid man is. I don’t make intellectual conversation. I’m very superficial. I’m just a fashion designer. Fashion designers look at fashion magazines, right?"
Newsweek
2011年，他告诫喜欢抱怨的设计师：
“请不要说我努力工作。没有人强迫你做这项工作，如果不喜欢，你应该换做另一个工作。如果应付不了，换个事情做。但不要一边做，一边抱怨'Aaaah，事情太多了'。因为很多人都依赖你的工作。我们在香奈儿做的东西，有成千上万的人一起努力；这些东西在世界各地的数百家商店里销售。人们喜欢大品牌，大牌创造很多钱，但后面是努力的一面......然后，突然间，似乎人人成了艺术家。他们太弱了。太脆弱了。这样不行。我们必须坚强。不能谈论我们的痛苦。买衣服是买快乐，不是要听到有人为一块塔夫绸吃尽苦头。我喜欢努力。我喜欢具体的现实。我是一个脚踏实地的人，但我的工作是让地球变得更加宜居。“
"Please don't say I work hard. Nobody is forced to do this job and if they don't like it, they should do another one. If it's too much, do something else. But don't start doing it and then say, 'Aaaah, it's too much'. Because a lot of people depend on it. What we do at Chanel, thousands of people work on these things; these things are sold in hundreds and hundreds of shops all over the world. People like the big machine, and the money the big machine involves, but the effort... Then, suddenly, they become artists. They are too weak. Too fragile. Non. We have to be tough. We cannot talk about our suffering. People buy dresses to be happy, not to hear about somebody who suffered over a piece of taffeta. Me, I like to make an effort. I like nothing better than concrete reality. I'm a very down-to-earth person, but it is my job to make that earth more pleasant."
嘻笑怒骂皆文章，时尚达人设计的香包、套装，装点了一代又一代人的美丽人生。先生一路走好。
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