传说,赫哲族是人鱼的后代,吃过“百鱼宴”的子孙们,会一路追随家的方向 | All-Fish Banquet
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In the Sanjiang Plain of northeast China's Heilongjiang Province, resides an ethnic minority group whose members mainly live off fishery. Theyare called Hezhe.
中国东北三江流域,生活着一支传统上靠捕鱼为生的少数民族——赫哲族。
The Spring Festival has arrived amid subzero temperatures and snow-covered stretches of land. Most people would huddle together around fire and enjoy the holiday, but Hezhe people are springing to work.
冬季的东北,天寒地冻,又正值春节。照理说,所有人都应该在家中围着火炉,休养生息。
但对赫哲族而言,这却是丰收的季节。
Cao Jianhui, 49, and fellow fishermen are going on an fishing trip.
49岁的曹建辉和渔民们带着渔具走上了冰原,开始了冬捕。
The ice layer on the Heilongjiang River is meters thick. The fishermen use a heavy chisel to dig an opening in the ice, and cast their net.
黑龙江上的冰层有数米厚。他们用沉重的凿子在冰层上凿开窟窿,清理碎冰后下网捕捞。
The moment the net quivers, they quickly hoist it up, and toss the catch of the day into a water bucket.
随着渔网猛地一动,他们迅速将网上拉,将依旧扑腾着的鱼熟练地摘出,扔进水桶。
It's mostly small-scale fishing. But sometimes, they get lucky using a 100-meter-long net, catching thousands of kilos of fish at one time, including salmon and sturgeon.
这还只是数位渔民小规模的冬捕。有时,冰下布置的百米拉网,一次可捕获成千上万斤鱼,其中不乏鳇鱼、马哈鱼、鲟鱼等等珍贵品种。
As they retrace their steps with their trophies back to the village, their children are also on the road back home. It's a tradition for Hezhe people to hold an all-fish banquet to mark the Spring Festival.
他们带着渔获走在返家路上时,远方的年轻人也在回乡过春节的路上。每年,他们都要一起吃一顿必不可少的全鱼宴。
Hezhe people are good at fishing, but even better at cooking. The skin, roe, meat and bones of fish can all be turned into delicious dishes. They also use fish skin to make handicrafts and water-proof clothes.
赫哲族人不仅擅长捕鱼,也擅长做鱼。鱼皮、鱼籽、鱼肉、鱼脆骨都可入菜。鱼皮还被他们拿来做工艺品或者防水服装。
Big salmon chunks are meant to be fried. The roe is dipped in salted water before being served with spring onion. Bones and potatoes make a perfect stew. And the freshest meat is served raw as sashimi.
大块的马哈鱼肉可用来油炸,鱼籽过了盐水配上葱花就能上桌,鱼骨头和土豆一起炖能增加其鲜味……更重要的是,新鲜活鱼要优先做成生鱼片。
Cao cleans the fish with deftness and skill. He is making the preparations for the Spring Festival banquet.
曹建辉熟练地清理着鱼的内脏,为春节的全鱼宴做准备。
"We have fish balls, it is a metaphor for reunion. And we have salmon roe which symbolizes prosperity. The crucian is for luck, and the carp for wealth.”
“鱼丸子代表我们团团圆圆,马哈鱼籽代表我们红红火火,还有鲫鱼,鲫鱼代表吉祥如意,鲤鱼代表年年有余。”
Most importantly, the fish should be freshly caught in the wild. "The freshest fish with the strongest liquor" is their motto.
最重要的是,这些做原材料的鱼都是他们亲手捕捞的野生活鱼。“吃鱼吃喘气的,喝酒喝有劲的”,是赫哲人的宗旨。
"According to legends, Hezhe people are descendants of mermaids. Fish is essential in our daily life," says Cao.
“我们赫哲人在传说里是人鱼的后代,鱼对于赫哲族的日常生活是必不可少的。”曹建辉说。
During his childhood, the Spring Festival meant new clothes, new shoes and firecrackers. This is what Cao, as a young boy, would ask for. "Now that I'm supporting the family, my only wish is for them to be healthy and happy."
小时候,每逢过年,他最盼望的是穿新衣服、新鞋,放鞭炮。典型的孩子气的愿望,无忧无虑。“现在也不想那个,就希望孩子和家人平平安安。”
Cao's daughter hasn't been home much since middle school. "I miss her very much. I wish she could stay a little longer." Every Spring Festival, Cao prepares her favorite dishes, such as crab claws and salmon roe.
曹建辉的女儿从初中到大学都在外面求学,难得回乡。“平常也挺想她的,心里希望她多在身边呆一呆。”每逢过年,他都会为女儿准备她爱吃的鱼,比如鲫鱼、鳌、马哈鱼籽。
When the night falls, celebrations begin.
入夜之后,赫哲族人的新春欢庆才刚刚开始。
"Hezhe people are very hospitable. Every year we gather our friends for drinking, singing and dancing around bonfire."
“我们赫哲人比较好客,年年都召集亲朋好友到家做客,喝酒、唱歌、跳萨满舞、办篝火晚会。”
In the coldness of the winter, the fire brings warmth and relief. Fellow villagers hold hands and form a circle around the fire, performing an ancient Shaman dance. Flags of their totem flutter around.
冰天雪地之中,红彤彤的篝火格外温暖。赫哲人手挽着手围成圈,围着篝火跳起古老的萨满舞。图腾旗帜在他们周围飘扬。“虽然现在生活好了,吃的选择也多了,很多赫哲族人也不仅仅靠捕鱼了,但春节只有吃上鱼宴,一家人能团聚在一起,就比什么都开心。”
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Film editor: Chen Xiao, Liu Shuo
Story written by: Zhu Siqi
English editor: Nadim Diab
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