靠着球鞋和一部拍立得，这个年轻人居然成了艺术家

不同文化之间的壁垒，正在逐渐崩塌。 

回头想想，现在早已不是那个你喜欢球鞋就是 Sneakerhead、只有滑板才会穿 Fucking Awesome 、去时装周上穿街头品牌会被笑 Low 的时代 —— 设计师、造型师、音乐人、创意总监、品牌主理... 几乎没有人现在还挂着“单一身份” 向世界问好了，只要愿意，任何人都有可能做任何事。 

今天我带给大家的这个专访，依旧关于一个典型的横跨球鞋与时尚文化的人：他是 Andrea Dell'Aquila，运营着一个叫做 POLAROIDSNEAKSSNIPER 的品牌，来自米兰，今年只有 25 岁。他显著的个人艺术风格令人过目不忘：只用一台来自他父母的，80 年代的拍立得古董机拍球鞋 —— 无论是 80-90 年代的稀有神鞋，还是前两天才出的新鲜款式，在他的镜头中，都散发出了独一无二的质感。

你之前应该多多少少看到过这些球鞋拍立得 —— 是的，它们全都出自 Andrea 之手（图片来源：@polaroidsneakssniper）

POLAROIDSNEAKSSNIPER，中文字面上理解就是 “拍立得球鞋狙击手” 。的确，在他眼中，球鞋不单单只是用来出街搭配服饰的单品，而是一种与复古触感发生了化学反应的特殊媒介。最近，趁着他正想要把自己的作品做成一整个街头服饰系列对外进行售卖，延展这种媒介的影响力之时，我们做了一次专访，看看在球鞋文化与潮流 / 时尚文化水乳交融的今天，作为一个 “跨界人” 的有趣观点。

Andrea Dell'Aquila

Founder & Creative director of POLAROIDSNEAKSSNIPER

POLAROIDSNEAKSSNIPER 品牌创始人、创意总监

「Create a link between different temporal eras 」

「 在两个时代之间建立链接 」

What's up Andrea ! To those of our fans / readers who didn't know you, could you please introduce yourself first? (I know that's a little cliche…)

嘿 Andrea，最近还好吗？对我们的读者，甚至整个国内潮流圈来说你还是一位新朋友，虽然很俗套，但还是向我们的读者介绍一下自己吧。

Andrea：Hey everything cool man ! Thanks for the opportunity to talk about my project to NOWRE.com , and spread my vision to Asian market . (You know , it's cool to read about myself in Chinese!) . I'm Andrea Dell'Aquila , 25 y.o Founder & Creative director of POLAROIDSNEAKSSNIPER a project about sneakers-culture and polaroid , very soon appeal brand too , with the goal to create a link between different temporal eras . It's all about report with a creative touch the evolution of sneakers-culture all around the world with the different aesthetics from every particular city-style . I think it's more then a project , i think it's art , my biggest ambition is to be consider as an artist !

Andrea：最近一切都很好！很感激能有这样的机会向 NOWRE 谈谈我在做的项目，并把我的想法传播到亚洲市场 —— 能有机会用中文呈现我做的事，这太酷了！我是 Andrea Dell'Aquila，今年 25 岁，是 POLAROIDSNEAKSSNIPER 品牌的创始人和创意总监。它是一个与球鞋文化和拍立得摄影息息相关的项目，也很快就会成为一个服装品牌，我希望 POLAROIDSNEAKSSNIPER 可以成为两个时代之间链接者的角色。它的一切，也都建立在不同城市文化背景，和球鞋文化在创意元素的融合中。我觉得它本身超越了 “项目” 的定义，我更想让它是艺术，而我最大的目标也是成为一个人尽皆知的艺术家！

Seriously, are you a Sneakerhead ? How many pairs of sneaker do you have?

说真的，你是个 “鞋头” 吗？家里有多少双球鞋？

Andrea：Honestly i'm not a sneaker head in that sense of term , i'm not a collector , i cop few sneakers , and i don't like hype , camp out , reselling and stuff... i'm really passionate about the culture , creativity behind every design , about the history behind . A sneakers could represent an entire subculture or movement (i was impressed when i was in NYC his summer for work , and a homeless in Soho when looked at my tee with a polaroid of Air Jordan 1 from 85 said "damn! That jordans are my favorite kicks!" In that moment you can understand how are more then a simple pair of sneakers are ! I have 50 pair of kicks less or more .

Andrea：老实说，我并不是一个严格意义上的 “鞋头”。我是买过不少球鞋，但我绝不搞收藏。我不喜欢炒作、倒卖什么的东西... 我真的只热衷于文化、每个设计背后的创意和历史。球鞋其实真的可以完整的代表一种亚文化或文化运动。有一件事儿令我印象很深：有年夏天我去纽约工作的时候，在 SOHO 碰见了一个无家可归者，他看到我穿着印有 85 元年 Air Jordan 1 拍立得照片的 Tee，说 “哦！这是我最爱的一双乔丹！” 那一刻，你就可以理解一双球鞋，真的不仅仅只是一双鞋那么简单了。嗯... 我大概有 50 双左右的鞋吧。

这张 Air Jordan I OG 的拍立得，也是 POLAROIDSNEAKSSNIPER 品牌标志性的设计（图片来源：@polaroidsneakssniper）

As a SNIPER , how do you locked down your TARGET（sneakers which are worth to shoot）?

你真的能像 “Sniper（狙击手）” 一样，简单又直接地拿下你的 “目标” 吗 ？你懂的，我指那些你觉得值得拍的球鞋。

Andrea：Man it's the most difficult part of the job ! When i look a pair of sneakers that i wanna shoot i stop that person and i explain in a very few words the project and i ask if can i shoot them .

Andrea：哥们儿那真是我工作中最难的部分了！当我在街上看到那些穿着值得一拍的球鞋的人，我都会拦住他们，然后用一两句话简要地解释我的工作，再询问是不是可以拍他们的鞋。

要是有这样一个人拿着大号的古董拍立得，来到你面前要求拍你的鞋... 你应该是不会拒绝的吧...

Why are you obsessed with Polaroid as your unique shooting and design style?

你又是怎么迷上宝丽来摄影的？为什么选择它当作你的个人风格？

Andrea：I always liked vintage elements, since when i was young , i love the filter of polaroid camera , as well the fact that it's different then the digital pics ! I always wanna be creative in what i do , i think if i was born in 70'S i was searching for digital cameras ! lol

Andrea：我对复古元素相当着迷。在我小时候，我就对拍立得相机沉迷得不能自拔了。事实上，它的确完全不同于数码相片。这是因为我总想在我的作品里体现个人创意… 但我想如果我出生在 70 年代的话，可能我就在用数码相机工作了吧！哈哈！

工作室中的 Andrea （以上图片来源：Andrea 本人）

「 I'm really about technology evolution... but I don't wanna change my polaroid !」

「 我对不断迭代的高新技术很热衷... 但我不会换掉我的老拍立得！ 」

Polaroid just luanched the new digital camera named “pop” in CES 2017, have you heard that ? it is cool? Do you want to upgrade your equipment?

拍立得公司刚刚在 CES 2017 上发布了新机型 pop，你听说了吗？觉得酷么？会因此升级一下你的设备吗？

这就是拍立得公司的革命性新产品，pop —— 配备 2,000 万像素 CMOS 传感镜头，双 LED 闪光灯、3.94 英寸触摸液晶屏、最大可支持 1080p 格式的视频拍摄、具备 Wi-Fi / 蓝牙传输功能、最大支持 128 GB 扩展 micro SD 卡储存功能 （图片来源：Polaraid）

Andrea：Yes sir ! I heard about it ! I think it's cool for the new generation of kids who wanna approach to polaroid cameras ! I'm really about technology evolution, but i don't like that camera for myself ! With this camera can i lost my personal "vintage touch" and that unique filter generate from my polaroid 600 from 80'S (was my parents camera) i hope it will be work a lot of years ! I don't wanna change my polaroid !

Andrea：是的！我听说了！它对刚接触拍立得相机的孩子们来说真的太酷了！我对不断迭代的高新技术向来很感兴趣，但就我个人而言，我不会喜欢它！因为如果我换了它，那些我在拍立得 600 型相机（它起初是我父母的）上所追求的 “80 年代复古触感” 就荡然无存了。我希望这部老相机能一直陪我工作下去，我并不想换掉它！

And Polaroid print papers are on the princy side (almost 1$ USD per print in China), do you collect all the photos after shooting? Is there anyone ask you the photo after shooting them? Any interesting stories behind the scene?

我也知道宝丽来相纸挺贵的，在中国，它的成本差不多 1 美刀一张了，所以一般你给这些穿球鞋的人拍完了之后，是都自己留下吗？肯定很多人希望你也能送他们一张吧？遇到这种情况怎么办？在这过程中有什么有意思的事儿吗？

Andrea：Yes , they cost 2$ each other , a lot of people and friends ask to have for them self , i usually shoot double for them , but depends sometimes i gave the original (but really few few people have one of my polaroids at home , they need to feel lucky of that ! The others be worried about it , soon i'll sell my original polaroids , but at price will be high !

Andrea：是的的确很贵，在这边实际上都到 2 美刀一张了。的确有很多人和周围的朋友问我要这些照片，所以我基本都会多拍一张，但有时候我也给他们原件... 只不过真的很少有人能把原件带回家的，那些朋友应该感到幸运！对于我之前的那些作品，很快我会卖掉一部分，但价格我会定得很高的！

Besides, Polaroid filters make bright color dusk sometimes, is it what you want for visual effect ?

有时候宝丽来照片效果，会让一些鲜艳的球鞋不那么亮眼了…这也是你想要的效果吗？

Andrea：Yes for sure ! It's all about vibes spread by visual effects !

Andrea：这是肯定的！这是视觉传播和引起共鸣的基础！

Andrea 的部分作品 （图片来源：@polaroidsneakssniper）

Is there anyone saying “hey, dude. I do not like your photo of my shoes. You make it bad.” How do you deal with the situation?

那我很好奇，有没有你给他们拍完了，他们说 “你把我的球鞋拍丑了，哥们儿” 的？

Andrea：Honestly it was never happenend ! Then i don't know my reaction ! Lol

Andrea：说实话从来没发生过！所以我不知道我会有怎样的反应，哈哈哈哈...

No one can answer better than you on this question：Does it exsixt “MATCH” theory between pants and sneakers？ If the answer is Yes, Which kind of pants are most suitable to Sneaker？

这个问题可能没人比你更懂了：你觉得裤子和球鞋是不是存在 “搭配” 这一说？哪种裤子是你觉得最搭球鞋的？

Andrea：Yes for sure ! I think every kind of pants could be match with a kind of sneakers ! For example fore me the best way to match a pair of new Vans low old skool of kicks with similar shapes are a pair of a little bit baggy jeans or large chinos . Otherwise a pair of slim fit jeans could be match very well with a pair of high sneakers , such as Jordan 1.

Andrea：当然了！我觉得每种裤子都有一种球鞋是能与它完美搭配的。比如就我个人而言，配一双全新 VANS 低帮 Old Skool，最合适的裤子是一双宽松一点的牛仔裤或者大号的 Chino 裤；另外，修身牛仔裤和 Air Jordan I 这样的高帮球鞋是绝配。

「 When you see at my pic , you can say "that's a 70'S 80'S 90'S pic ! Wait but there a pair of kicks come out last week ! 」

「 当你看到这些拍立得时，你会觉得它们来自 70-90 年代... 可等你定睛一看，这不是上周刚出的球鞋吗？ 」

So, The idea of shooting sneakers and building a brand come up with at the same time?

所以，球鞋摄影和创立服装品牌，它们是同时出现的想法吗？

Andrea：No, the project was born with the idea to be only that kind of project , but with pass of the time , i want to launch a merch tee connected to it , and with passing of the time my design come out , then i decided to built a brand too .

Andrea：并不是，最初拍球鞋的点子就仅限于拍球鞋，但随着时间的推移，我就做了一些主题 T 恤；直到现在我完善了我的设计，然后才决定创立一个品牌。

POLAROIDSNEAKSSNIPER 第一季服饰系列的部分型录 （以上图片来源：@polaroidsneakssniper）

I have heard that you registered trade mark of “POLAROIDSNEAKSSNIPER”, it is DOPE as a “freshman” or starter, how did you come out the idea?

听说你已经把 “POLAROIDSNEAKSSNIPER” 这个商标注册了？对于一个刚起步的人来说，这太狂了！你是怎么想的？

Andrea：Thanks a lot ! The idea come out naturally, becouse i need to trademark POLAROIDSNEAKSSNIPER, as a brand too ! It's a brand strategy for save the identity of the name in a era where the power of information it's giant !

Andrea：非常感谢！注册的想法自然而然的就出现了，因为我需要 “POLAROIDSNEAKSSNIPER” 这样正式的商标来标榜自己的品牌。在如今力量巨大的信息时代面前，这是个保护品牌的最佳战略。

Are you going to remain the “Polaroid style” & ideas as your main design style？

你会一直把这些宝丽来照片当做服装的主要设计？

Andrea：Yes for sure ! the polaroid style and ideas will always are the main design part!

Andrea：必须的！从拍立得而来的风格和灵感将永远是我品牌最主要的设计！

What are the concepts after the slogan “Create a link between different temporal eras” ? What are you trying to express behind this?

给我们解释一下什么是 “Create a link between different temporal eras” 吧？你想用这句 Slogan 表达什么？

Andrea：When you see at my pic , you can say "that's a 70'S 80'S 90'S pic ! Wait but there a pair of kicks come out last week WTF! That's the "link between different temporal eras" ! The polaroid filter really old and the sneakers-culture so contemporary.

Andrea：当你看到我拍的照片时，你会说 “这一定是一张来自 70、80、90 年代的照片！” 但当你定睛一看，你就会发现这双鞋可能仅仅是上周新出的... 这就是我说的 “不同时代的链接者”。拍立得文化真的具有非常悠久的历史，而球鞋文化又是如此现代。

Andrea：So the handwriting font represents your personal design style. I have found that you have added some recreate work on the Lookbook, it reminds me an amazing denim suit from MOSCHINO 2017 SS. They did emphasize the creative design by adding lines directly on the clothing, would you do it on your works? It looks really chill.

Andrea：所以这个手写字体，就代表着你。我发现在其中的几张 Lookbook 中你也在照片上用笔进行二次创作，这让我想起 MOSCHINO 在 2017 春夏季度中的单宁牛仔套装 —— 你以后也会考虑在你的服装上加入这些设计吗？在我看来，这真的太帅了。

左：MOSCHINO 17 春夏手写印花单宁套装 / 右：Andrea 在 Ins 放出的服饰系列宣传图 （图片来源：Fucking Young! / @polaroidsneakssniper）

Andrea：Exactly handwriting is my main design aesthetic! I find that jacket super dope ! Could be a really interesting source of inspiration for my creations , thanks a lot!

Andrea：的确，手写笔记将是我的核心设计理念之一。我发现 MOSCHINO 这套衣服太酷了！可能真的会激发我不少创作灵感，非常感谢！

Where can customers buy your designs? Are you going to cooperate with other platforms in the future?

现在你的牌子在哪里可以买到？以后会放到其他渠道卖吗？

Andrea：My collection will be out very soon , less or more in one month , they will be on my e-shop (www.polaroidsneakssniper.com) and on other shops in Milan , i can't reveal the name of the shops yet, but stay tuned for more infos .

Andrea：第一季单品会在一个月内在我的官网 www.polaroidsneakerssniper.com 上开卖。同时在米兰的一些店里也会上架，我现在还不能说这些具体的名字，详情还请关注我发出的后续信息吧。

（图片来源：@polaroidsneakssniper）

You have mentioned “OG” a lot, are you the person who obsessed with classic and vintage pieces? Do you feel bored about the fast fashion industry and sneaker culture at the moment?

你经常提到 “OG” 这两个字母，这是不是说明你会对现在快得有些浮躁的球鞋、时尚圈感到厌倦？

Andrea：I mentioned a lot of time the word "OG PRIMO" , i'm not bored about the fashion industry right now, like i said in previous question (n.5) , i'm really happy about the technology evolution, but i wanna bring the vintage elements with a jew fresh appeal !

Andrea：我的确提到了很多次 “OG PRIMO”（注：原版最高！），但这不代表着我对现在的时尚行业很厌倦。就像我之前提到的，我对不断迭代的高新技术向来很感兴趣，但我也想用新的服装产品线把复古元素带给更多人！

Which pair of shoes do you wear the most?

你平常穿得最多的球鞋是？

Andrea：My Vans Old Skool x SlamJam (really cozy and matchable with a lot pf outfits) or Air Force 1 "Cali Sunset" that I customized last year.

Andrea：其中之一是 Slam Jam x VANS Sk8-Hi，舒服又百搭；还有我去年自己定制的 Air Force 1 MID “加州阳光”。

Andrea 的 Slam Jam x VANS Sk8-Hi

他自己定制的 Air Force 1 MID “加州阳光”（图片来源：Highsnobiety）

Many people voted “ACRONYM® x Nike Air Presto” as “the sneaker of the year”, Do you agree with that？If the answer is No，Which pair is your “ the Sneaker of the year”?

好多人说 “ACRONYM® x Nike Air Presto ” 是去年的 “年度球鞋”，你同意吗？那让你评选 “2016 年度球鞋” ，你会选哪一双？

Andrea：I think is one of the best sneakers of the year for sure ! One my favorite sneakers of the year are :

Andrea ：它当然是年度球鞋之一！此外我还觉得这几双是我的 “年度球鞋”：

Nike Air Force 1 "Linen" （图片来源：KITH）

VLONE x Nike Air Force 1 （图片来源：COMPLEX）

Air Jordan I OG "Black Toe" （图片来源：Nike）

CDG Homme x Nike Dunk （图片来源：VOGUE）

Andrea ：List the TOP 5 DOPE sneakers you have shot before.

Andrea ：再给我们列出 5 双你拍过的，最屌的球鞋吧。

1. Ian Connor 上脚的 Kanye West x Bape Bapesta

2. 著名街拍摄影师 Julien Boudet 上脚的 Nike Air Uptempo "Black & Obsidian grey"

3. Rhude Design 主理人 Rhuigi Villaseñor 上脚的 Air Jordan 1 OG Retro（1985）

4. Home Street Home 主理人 Yoann 上脚的 fragment design x Air Jordan I

5. Selma 上脚的 Nike Air Max 95 "pink - white & violet" （以上图片来源：Andrea 本人）

「 adidas made smart and right moves in this years... but i was and I'll be forever a Nike fan ! 」

「 2016 年的 adidas 做出了明智且正确的决定... 但我永远是 Nike 的粉丝！ 」

Many people think adidas have earned better score than Nike in 2016, do you think so? How about 2017?

不少人觉得 adidas 在 2016 年超过了 Nike，你怎么看？觉得这种情况还会在 2017 年继续吗？

Andrea：I think adidas made smart and right moves in this years , such as deals with Kanye West and Pharrell Williams , with the relaunch of Stan Smith and Superstar , super iconic sneakers , with the environment on research from r eco friendly products and other stuff ; but i was and I'll be forever a Nike fan ! In 2017 Nike will take again the power , thanks to moves such as the store opened in collabo with Kith in NYC , and with relaunch of Air Force 1 (my favorite kicks of all time) with a lot of collaboration with designers and music artists .

Andrea：我觉得 2016 对于 adidas 来说是拥有明智、正确举措的一年。比如侃爷和菲董的合作，还有像 Stan Smith、Superstar 这样具有标志性鞋款的重新推出，和在环保产品以及其他科技方面的研究；但我不得不说我永远是 Nike 的粉丝！我觉得 Nike 今年将再次施展力量。感谢他们在纽约和 KITH 合作的店铺，以及与那么多音乐人、艺术家合作的 Air Force 1 —— 它是我最爱的鞋。

Many people believe that sneaker culture have influenced any fashion areas, do you have any opinions about that? What does Sneaker Culture mean to you?

有人说 Sneaker 文化对现在的许多领域都有影响，你同意这种说法吗？Sneaker 文化对你来说又意味着什么？

Andrea：For sure recently sneakersculture influenced yhe fashion world , thanks to people like Virgil Abloh , Kanye West , A$ap Rocky , Gosha , Demna and many others , people who, bring to high fashion a lot of street culture . I'm really happy about that because my studies backgrounds are in fashion ; I graduated in Fashion Styling at Istituto Marangoni of Milan , and i'm big lover of sneakers-culture , then the fusion of both worlds it's amazing !! How i said before (look answer N.9) for me sneakers-culture it's really a huge world !

Andrea：近年来的球鞋文化对时尚界的影响是必然的。当然同时还要感谢像 Virgil Abloh、侃爷、A$AP Rocky、Gosha Rubchinskiy、Demna 等等把街头文化完美融入高端时尚中的人。于我个人而言，我很开心我的学业背景依傍于时尚之中：我毕业于米兰的马兰戈尼学院时尚造型专业；同时，我也对球鞋文化十分痴迷 —— 所以这两种领域的融合对我来说是更加惊人的！就像我之前提到的，球鞋文化对我来说真的是个巨大的世界。

Would you forecast what kind of sneakers are going to hit in fashion weeks in 2017?

既然是新的一年了，预测一下各大时装周上，什么样的球鞋最多吧。

Andrea：I think a lot of raf simons x adidas as always (one the best kicks in the fashion world) a lot of Jordans are retroes Nike .

Andrea：我觉得应该会有很多 adidas by RAF SIMONS （时尚圈最赞的球鞋之一）和 Nike 的复刻 Air Jordan 吧。

List several your favorite apparel brands except yours？

除了你自己的，你最爱的服装品牌是？

Andrea：OFF-WHITE , GUCCI , A-COLD-WALL* , Astrid Andersen , Nike , RAF SIMONS .

Andrea：OFF-WHITE、GUCCI、A-COLD-WALL*、Astrid Andersen、Nike 和 RAF SIMONS。

Last question: If there is $1,000 USD for you, would you buy the most hit pairs in the moment, like fragment design x Air Jordan I, or pairs which are hard to find in the market? And why ？

最后一个问题：如果给你 1,000 美元，你是愿意买当下最火的新鞋（比如 fragment design x Air Jordan I），还是现在已经很难再找到的经典球鞋？

Andrea：If i had that money to spent for a pair of sneakers i could cop a pair of really Jordan 1 Retros (OG).

Andrea：如果真的有那么多钱让我花的话，我应该会买一双经典的原版 Air Jordan I 或复刻吧。

虽然我和 Andrea 并没有在现实生活中见过面，但看得出来，他是个热情很足的年轻艺术家，对自己品牌的信心也十分充足。实话说，这是我做过氛围最轻松的一次采访。尽管我很希望 Andrea 可以对现实表达出更加犀利的态度，但其结果你们也看到了，他依旧很正面 —— 我们完全不同的成长经历与国籍似乎决定了我们看问题不同的角度；但，也更坚定了我要更多地了解这些来自世界的，不同声音的决心。

（以上图片来源：Andrea 本人）

当然，我还有更多想要问 Andrea 的问题，但只好等到他来北京吃烤鸭时，再继续讲给你们听了，PEACE.

编辑：404

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