“布”里生花的扎染太会玩了吧！| Tinctorial and Manual Magic in Yunnan's Tie-dye

The tie-dyes of the Bai ethnic group use hand-weaved white cloth and colors extracted from plants. People use needle and thread to make different folds in a cloth and put it into a dye vat several times until the color becomes darker, while the rest of the cloth absorbs the dye, resulting in vibrant colors.

白族扎染，以线结之，而后染色，即染，则解其结，凡结除皆原色，余则入染矣，其色斑斓。

A variety of items made by tie-dye. 利用扎染做出来的各种物品。

The tie-dye of the Bai ethnic group was listed as one of the "first batch of national intangible cultural heritages". Tie-dye handicrafts can be seen everywhere in the Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture, also known as the "homeland of ethnic tie-dye". In the beautiful Bai ethnic villages at the foot of Cangshan Mountain in Dali, what kind of exquisite artworks will people create when they use their imagination and creativity in tie-dye?

白族扎染艺术是国家第一批非物质文化遗产。扎染工艺，在大理地区随处可见，被称为“民族扎染之乡”。大理苍山脚下美丽的白族村庄，灵秀与智巧交织的动感，“布”里生花的扎染，究竟能玩出什么花样呢？

Several local elders of the Bai ethnic group are using needle and thread to make different folds in a cloth. 当地白族老人正在一块布上做出不同的褶皱。

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Tie-dye Introduction 扎染简介

Tie-dye, also known as "zhaxie" or "jiaoxie" in ancient times, is a traditional and unique dyeing technique of the Han nationality in China. As a treasure of Chinese art, the tie-dye of the Bai ethnic group showcases the traditional tie-dye craft characteristics of ethnic minorities. The dye is made from natural plant blue indigo solutions, such as liaolan, banlangen, and aihao, which grow on Cangshan Mountain. The production process includes design, tracing, tying, dyeing, untying, bleaching, inspection, and other procedures. There are traditional skills such as blue dyeing, color dyeing, and applique, and each piece is a masterpiece that puts blooming flowers in cloth.

扎染古称扎缬、绞缬，是汉族民间传统而独特的染色工艺。作为中华艺术之瑰宝，云南大理的白族扎染，发挥民族传统扎染工艺特色，染料为苍山上生长的廖蓝、板蓝根、艾蒿等天然植物的蓝靛溶液。工艺过程分设计、上稿、扎缝、浸染、拆线、漂洗、整检等工序。有蓝染、彩染、贴花等传统技艺，每一幅都是“布”里生花的佳作。

Tie-dye cloth is drying on the roof of local buildings. Photo/Liu Chenyu 扎染布晾晒在民居房顶上。图源 刘宸羽

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Tie-dye with Natural Plants 植物颜料扎染

Zhoucheng village is famous for the tie-dye skills of the Bai ethnic group, which date back to the end of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) and the early part of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). The characteristic buildings with white walls and blue tiles are scattered around, and pieces of blue-and-white handicrafts dance with the wind.

周城村以白族的扎染技艺而闻名，这种技艺可以追溯到明末(1368-1644)和清初(1644-1911)。在那里，一栋栋青瓦白墙的特色民居错落有致，一块块蓝白相间的布艺扎染随风轻舞。

"Puzhen Dyeing Workshop" was founded by Duan Yinkai, who grew up in a Bai ethnic tie-dye family, and her husband Duan Shukun. She has sorted and created more than 30 kinds of tie-dye techniques.

“璞真染坊”由生长在白族扎染世家的段银开和其丈夫段树坤开办。她整理和自创的扎花扎法达30多种。

A variety of plants that can be used in the process of tie-dye. 可以用作扎染的各种植物。

Duan Shukun's dyeing skills are excellent. He believes that although there are many chemical dyes nowadays, only the traditional banlangen can dye the most authentic blue color. As a result, Duan Shukun builds the shed to plant banlangen. Duan Yinkai has also developed more than 50 local plant dyeing color cards in Dali, compiled books related to Bai ethnic tie-dye, analyzed local culture, fashion trends, and market demand, innovated tie-dye patterns, and improved the tie-dye plant dyeing process.

段树坤染色技艺出众。他认为，虽然现在有很多化学染料，但只有传统染料板蓝根才能染出大理白族那抹最纯正的蓝。为了坚守心中的蓝色，尽管种植难度大，段树坤依旧亲自扎棚种植板蓝根。她还开发了大理本土植物染色的50多种色卡，整理、编写白族扎染相关书籍。并分析当地文化、时尚潮流及市场需求，创新扎染图案，改良扎染草木染色工艺。

Several women of the Bai ethnic group are using needle and thread to make different patterns. 当地白族女性正在布上做出不同的图案。

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Tie-dye in the Space 太空扎染

When tie-dye technique meets space exploration, namely traditional culture is combined with modern technology, what is the story behind? On the morning of March 23, 2022, the second lesson of the "Heavenly Palace Classroom" officially began. Wang Yaping, a member of the Shenzhou-13 crew, demonstrated intangible cultural heritage tie-dye during her space lecture at the Chinese Space Station.

当扎染技艺登上太空， 当传统文化遇上现代科技，2022年3月23日上午，“天宫课堂”第二课正式开讲，神舟十三号乘组航天员王亚平，在中国空间站进行太空授课时，演示了非遗扎染。

Wang Yaping demonstrated intangible cultural heritage tie-dye during her space lecture at the Chinese Space Station. 王亚平在中国空间站进行太空授课时演示了非遗扎染。

The patterns created by Wang Yaping's tie-dye resemble parachutes, and the towels used for the experiment were printed with rocket designs.

王亚平扎染出的花色酷似降落伞，辅助实验的毛巾上也印有火箭图案，辅助实验的毛巾上也印有火箭图案。

The patterns created by Wang Yaping's tie-dye resemble parachutes. 王亚平扎染出的花色酷似降落伞。

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Tie-dye Trend 扎染浪潮

In recent years, fashion magazines both domestically and internationally have noticed that celebrities and bloggers are wearing tie-dye elements in street style. The water-washed neon halo and splashing paint evoke infinite summer vibes. Tie-dye has bloomed like flowers, instantly occupying a place in street fashion.

近年来，国内外时尚杂志也发现街拍中明星、博主们都纷纷将扎染元素穿上了街。水洗霓虹光晕与飞溅的颜料，唤起了无限夏日风情。将扎染的中国民族传统技艺与不羁个性相结合，那犹如盛开花朵的扎染，瞬间在街头潮流占领立足之地。

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Tie-dye in Dali 去有风的地方扎染

Recently, the TV series "Meet Yourself" has brought the millennium-old traditional handicraft tie-dye into the public view. Liu Yifei's headband, scarf and some tablecloths shown in the TV series have driven sales in the domestic market.

前不久，电视剧《去有风的地方》带火了一项传承千年的手工艺——扎染。刘亦菲同款头巾、发带，还有电视剧里的一些桌布带动了内销市场的爆单。

In the TV series "Meet Yourself", Liu Yifei's headband is a tie-dye handcraft. 在电视剧《去有风的地方》中，刘亦菲的发带是扎染手工艺品。

The "Windy Little Courtyard" in the TV series is located in Fengyangyi. The quaint village is marked by the traces of the years. However, with vibrant green plants and blooming flowers, the ancient village is full of life. Strolling through narrow alleys of the village, chatting, taking a nap, and living leisurely, making a piece of indigo-dyed fabric, experiencing pottery-making, and enjoying a pastoral life, while sipping on some wine.

剧中的“有风小院”就在凤阳邑，古朴的村子到处都是岁月的痕迹，古朴的村子到处都是岁月的痕迹，然而充满生机的绿植，争相开放的花，却让古村充满生活气息。迂回穿行在村落巷道间，在这里聊天、打盹，安闲地生活，再做一块蓝染，体验制作陶艺，在微醺的葡萄酒中过一段“采菊东篱下，悠然见南山”的田园生活。

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Weishan Tie-dye Museum 巍山扎染博物馆

The Weishan Tie-dye Museum was built in 2019, displaying over ten thousand different types of products and the processes of Weishan tie-dye over 30 years. The museum showcases the diverse hand-stitching techniques and vivid colors created through plant-based dyes used by the Yi ethnic group in Weishan.

巍山扎染博物馆建成于2019年，馆内陈列了巍山扎染30余年期间的产品以及工艺流程。陈列产品单品种类过万，琳琅满目的产品向世人展示了巍山彝族扎染多元化的手工针法技艺和植物染料所创造的缤纷色彩。

Tie-dye art handcrafts. 扎染艺术品。

Tie-dye can not only be used in traditional clothing production, but can also be used to create everyday items such as handkerchiefs, cloth bags, curtains, sofa cushions, and more. It not only has practical uses, but also has a unique artistic aesthetic.

扎染不仅可以用作传统衣物制作，也可以做成手帕、布袋、窗帘、门帘、沙发垫等日常生活中所需要的物品，不仅具有实用性，也有别样的艺术美感。

Visiting the museum, people can learn about the history of tie-dye in Weishan, as well as experience the dyeing and weaving facilities in the workshop.

来在扎染博物馆，可以了解巍山整个扎染的历史，还有扎染流程体验车间、手织布车间设施，让每一个到馆了解、学习扎染工艺的有心人都能收获满满，满载而归。

People experience the dyeing and weaving facilities in the workshop.人们在体验车间制作自己的扎染手工艺品。

The charm of tie-dye lies in the fact that even if different craftsmen use the same tie-dye technique to create the same pattern, until the thread is unraveled, no one knows what breathtaking visual effect will be produced.

扎染的魅力之处在于不同的扎染手艺人即使用同一种扎染手法去制作同一种图案，不到拆线展开的那一瞬间，谁都不知道将会得到怎样的视觉惊艳。

Tie-dye handicrafts are displayed. 制作完成的扎染手工艺品。

The tie-dye techniques passed down through generations. The blue and white tie-dye, through the centuries, has already melted into the lives of Bai people. Today, it is not just the tie-dye of the Bai people, but carries the beauty of all the Bai people, and has traversed every corner of the world.

白族人一生离不开扎染，扎染的蓝与白，透过千年时光，早已浸润成白族人生活的底色。今天，它不仅是白族人的扎染，而是带着所有白族的美好，走遍了世界的每个角落。

Tie-dye techniques passed down through generations. 扎染技艺世代相传。

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来源：拾云南 综合大理发布、云南发布

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