谁说男儿不能绣花？85后姑苏帅小伙在针尖上走“绣” | The art of Su Embroidery

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都说水墨写意最美，可曾想一针一线，竟也能绣出鸟语蝉鸣、清风月色？

Ink wash painting is known to be one of the greatest art forms. Did you know that a needle and thread can also be a craftsmen's tool to recreate the most beautiful scenery of nature?

张雪，一名来自苏绣世家的85后刺绣师，他用细腻的双手，绣出了一幅幅精美绝伦的刺绣作品，成为当之无愧的“最美绣郎”。

Born after 1985, Zhang Xue has created numbers of exquisite works with his delicate fingers, thus is regarded as one of the best male embroiderers.

张雪从小就沉浸在刺绣的氛围里。母亲薛金娣出身刺绣世家，6岁学习刺绣，16岁进厂做绣工，从事刺绣行业已有40多年，她还是苏绣非物质文化遗产代表性传承人。受母亲影响，大学毕业后的张雪辞去了原有金融工作，拿起了绣花针，当起了“绣郎”。

Zhang was born into a family of embroidery. His mother, Xue Jindi started learning embroidery at the age of six, and became a professional embroiderer at 16. Having been in the business for more than 40 years, she is now a representative of the intangible cultural heritage of Su Embroidery. Under the influence of his mother, Zhang quit his job in finance to become an embroiderer.

苏绣是流传于苏州及其周边地区的民间刺绣工艺，形成于三国时期，与粤绣、湘绣、蜀绣并称中国四大名绣，至今已有2000余年的历史。明清时期，苏绣开始成熟并且逐渐形成了精细、雅洁的风格，它的传承完整且没有断代。“学习一门手艺需要花很长很长时间，原来苏绣这个行业至少有2、3万的从业者，然而现在还在从事苏绣的年轻人却不到50个。”这不禁让人们感到担忧。

Su Embroidery used to be a popular folk craft in the Yangtze River area around Suzhou City. Together with Yue, Xiang, and Shu embroideries, they are called the Four Famous Embroideries of China. Emerged in the Three Kingdoms Period, Su Embroidery has a history of more than 2000 years. In the Ming and Qing dynasties, it prospered and generally developed its delicate and elegant styles. The legacy of Su Embroidery is consistent without any discontinuities. Nevertheless, "It takes a long time to master a craft. There were once about 20 to 30 thousand embroidery craftsmen in China, now it has dropped to less than 50." This is a good reason to worry about it.  

张雪发现，苏绣作为国家第一批非物质文化遗产，发展前景巨大。然而，现在年轻人都不愿学习刺绣，不少“手艺人”变成“守艺人”。他感慨道：“现在年轻人学苏绣的太少了，我要把这个技艺传承下去。”

Zhang believes that Su Embroidery has, as one of China's first intangible cultural heritages, a great development prospect. Yet few young people are willing to learn embroidery, leaving many craftsmen with no successors any more. He says: "There are even fewer who learn Su Embroidery. But I am going to pass it on."

张雪认为，要想将刺绣传承下去，就需要一个庞大的基础人群从事这个行业。因此，当务之急是吸引更多的年轻人学习刺绣，把刺绣当作一种兴趣爱好，尤其是白领人群，他们工作压力大，可以把刺绣当作一种缓解工作压力的生活方式。这样辐射人群广了，自然就会有优秀的人才涌现出来。此外，还可以通过设计一些有创意的主题，让他们参与进来，乐在其中，循序渐进。

Zhang realized that in order to revive the legacy of embroidery, there have to be enough people working in this area. Therefore, the priority is to arouse young people's interest in embroidery, especially the white-collars. It could be a way to relieve their stress. 

从古至今，苏绣一直在不断地进步，每个时代都呈现出了新的面貌，每个时代也都有一些创新和表达。

Su Embroidery has been adapted since ancient times. It shows new looks and innovative expressions as time progresses.

“大家看到的刺绣往往都是平面的，那么如果呈现在三维的空间里，效果可能会更好”。于是，张雪利用特殊的装置设计出了名为《见山》的刺绣作品。他在墙面上用针与线来创造出立体感的山，将苏绣的概念从二维平面引入三维世界。

"The traditional embroidery is usually two-dimensional. It could be awesome presenting it three-dimensionally." Using special tools, Zhang created the work "See the Mountains" on the wall, raising the art of Su Embroidery to a new "height".

将刺绣引入生活日常，也是张雪在探索苏绣传承方式过程中萌发的想法。将刺绣与一些金属材质的生活物品相结合，会为苏绣的发展提供更多可能性。这是从跨界的角度拓展了苏绣的内涵。在张雪的努力下，他与母亲已将苏绣元素运用到手表、耳机、首饰的外观设计中，让苏绣出现在更多的生活场景里。

Bringing embroidery to people's everyday life has been one of his goals during his exploration. Combining embroidery with metal commodities provides more opportunities to its future development. This also expands the crossover connotation of Su Embroidery. For Zhang and his mother, elements of Su Embroidery have been applied to the designs of wrist watches, headsets and jewelries. There's no end to such interesting combinations.

不过，这些将现代审美融入苏绣艺术的尝试，也曾遭到外界的质疑。有人认为，张雪的作品已脱离了传承苏绣的范畴，是对苏绣传统的一种颠覆和伤害。而张雪则认为“创新才能更好传承发展苏绣”，创新本身便是苏绣两千多年发展历史中的传统。

Zhang was questioned, however, about his attempt to combine modern aesthetics with the art of Su Embroidery. Some people think that he's broken away from the legacy and upended the traditional embroidery. While Zhang thinks that "Su Embroidery will develop better with innovations", he believes the underlying tradition of Su Embroidery from the past 2,000 years will stay the same.

Cameraman: Tan Di

Film editor: Tan Di, Ma Mingyuan

Story written by: Zhang Zijia

English editor: Melissa Chua

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