课程成果⼁D&I与LVMH/DIOR的可持续时尚设计
引言
与奢侈品品牌的合作起源于2019年的UPCYCLING课程,延续至今我们对于可持续时尚的研究从课题拓展到了开放的工作坊,从本科生拓展到了各个专业对时尚以及可持续感兴趣的各年级学生。在开展研究的过程中,我们经历了疫情封控、线上上课、无法及时线下实地参观与调研等各类情况,但师生们以及合作方的热情依然,互相配合,高质量地完成了一次次的课程。
今年的可持续时尚课题,将可持续设计与时尚领域的服务实践相融合,打造未来的绿色时尚生活与产品。
课题要求同学们调研奢侈品牌行业背景,梳理时尚行业的可持续设计机会点,研究高端奢饰品快递包装产业工作流程,系统蓝图,寻找痛点,问题,提出洞见性的设计概念。运用大学本科专业知识和能力,探索材料、服务设计、环境设计、生态设计等不同方向切入,对现有奢侈品快递包装设计及服务模式进行可持续设计的思考和升级。
我们提出了基于三个研究方向(POP UP STORE、PACKAGE、GARDEN)的满意成果,同时获得了合作方的高度认可。以下是本次课程的线上成果汇报,同时,我们将在10月份举行线下课程成果展览,期待与社会各界探讨交流时尚的可持续设计。
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POPUP STORE
蒙田之窗
我们以蒙田大道三十号的窗户为灵感,用可持续材料制成蒙田之窗链接快闪店和DIOR花园,并通过交互活动展现再生型耕作以鼓励人们参与到DIOR城市花园计划
Inspired by the windows at 30 Avenue Montaigne, we made the windows of Montaigne from sustainable materials to link the pop-up shop and the DIOR Garden, and through interactive activities to encourage people to participate into the DIOR Urban Gardens program.
小组成员:Ashley Wang, Sharon Huang, Raindrop Song, Claire lee
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作品Video集锦
Symphony of the Soil
灵感取自DIOR花园,为展览设计了“土壤交响乐”主题的交互装置,希望通过艺术的形式,引起顾客对于土壤生物多样性和可再生农业的关注
该装置采用了DIOR五月玫瑰的形态,在土壤采样音乐的同时,与DIOR快闪展示原有的立面灯光相结合。此外,设计还包含了与线下装置结合的线上平台,希望用户和DIOR的可持续故事持久延续下去
Inspired by the DIOR Garden, an interactive installation on the theme of "Symphony of Soil" was designed for the exhibition. We want to draw customers' attention to soil biodiversity and renewable agriculture through art forms
The installation takes the form of the DIOR May Rose, combining the soil with the original façade lighting while sampling the music in the soil. In addition, the design also includes an online platform integrated with offline devices, hoping that the sustainable story of users and DIOR will continue
小组成员:LU Yiwen, WU Haomiao, XU Ziru, YANG Zhe
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作品交互展出 Interaction&Performance
作品UI界面
永生
我们以永生为主题,提取记忆永恒、唤醒与复苏的意象,希望以装置引导人们关注自然界消失的气味
With the theme of immortality, we extract the images of eternal memory, awakening and revival, hoping to use the device to guide people to pay attention to the smell that disappears in nature.
小组成员:Huang Mengqi,Yu Yue,You Anrui ZhouQingqing
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DIOR Package
R
R Packaging以DIOR的藤格纹(Cannage)作为灵感来源。
R stands for rattan pattern. 立体镂空的藤格纹结构美观且具有良好的抗冲击性,以整体、简洁的设计语言替代了雪梨纸等填充材料。
R stands for reduce. 在藤格纹图案边缘雕刻暗槽,这使得它便于根据产品尺寸进行模块化调整,获得合适的礼品盒空间。节约材料成本的同时,省去了额外的包装时间成本。
R stands for recycle.包装由轻量级的环保TPU材料构成,包装3 - 5年内100%可回收,并彻底生物降解。
R Packaging is inspired by DIOR's Cannage.
R stands for rattan pattern. The three-dimensional hollow rattan check structure is beautiful and has good impact resistance, replacing filler materials such as Sydney paper with an overall and concise design language.
R stands for reduce. Grooves are engraved on the edges of the rattan check pattern, which makes it easy to modularize adjustments to the product size to get the right gift box space. Saving material costs while eliminating additional packaging time costs.
R stands for recycle. The packaging is made of lightweight, eco-friendly TPU material, 100% recyclable within 3-5 years and completely biodegradable.
小组成员:李思齐,曹聿冰
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作品Video集锦
Floating Sculpture
灵感来自于艺术家TomasSaraceno的蜘蛛丝艺术品,以优雅轻盈的组织与坚韧的内在,完美诠释了DIOR与其倡导的可持续理念的有机结合。由此采用了一体化悬浮包装的设计思路,结合DIOR标志性的藤格纹镂空打造一款具有强兼容性、轻便性的快递包装,并参考了珠宝礼盒的开箱模式赋予开箱别具一格的仪式体验和可持续价值
Inspired by artist Tomas Saraceno's spider silk artwork, the combination of an elegant and lightweight organization and a tough interior perfectly interprets the organic combination of DIOR and its sustainable philosophy. Therefore, the design idea of integrated suspension packaging is adopted, combined with DIOR's signature rattan check skeleton to create a courier package with strong compatibility and lightweightness, and the unboxing mode of the jewelry gift box is referred to to give the unboxing unique ritual experience and sustainable value.
小组成员:甘陈宇,陈罗千绘
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作品Video集锦
纸泡沫
试验设计出纸浆发泡产品——纸泡沫。
纸泡沫产品A具有模块化立方体结构,可拆解出放置礼盒的缺口。它表层的藤格纹压印同时还是方块撕拉的指示线。
纸泡沫产品B将藤格纹图案进行拆解和立体化。它通过多层结构提高缓冲性能,表层还可直接固定商品礼盒。
经研究,可回收纸浆泡沫产品,对比聚乙烯填充物具备可持续性和成本优势。
Experimental design of pulp foam products - paper foam.
Paper foam product A has a modular cube structure that disassembles the notch where the gift box is placed. Its surface rattan check embossing is also an indicator line for block tearing.
Paper foam product B disassembles and three-dimensionalizes the rattan check pattern. It improves the cushioning performance through the multi-layer structure, and the surface layer can also directly fix the commodity gift box.
Recyclable pulp foam products have been studied to offer sustainability and cost advantages over polyethylene fillings.
小组成员:宋雨时
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作品Video集锦
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DIOR Garden
Garden of DIOR Muse 制衣园造
设计灵感来源于DIOR品牌的精神内核以及服装制作过程。设计过程通过廓形—图案—点缀为线索,以品牌先锋的理念以及处理服装与自然元素之间的手法作为创作源泉。结构形式上以DIOR经典的藤格纹为母题,结合中国的传统竹艺重塑场地空间体验,希望以非遗技术为引,将材料、装置、创作理念都能与可持续融于生活之中。
The design is inspired by the spiritual core of the DIOR brand and the garment production process. The design process uses silhouette-pattern-embellishment as a clue, with the brand's pioneering philosophy and the way it deals with the elements of clothing and nature as the source of creation. In terms of structural form, it takes DIOR's classic rattan check pattern as the motif, combined with traditional Chinese bamboo art to reshape the space experience of the venue, hoping to use intangible cultural heritage technology as the guide to integrate materials, installations and creative concepts into life with sustainability.
小组成员:欧嘉尧,徐艺文
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作品Video集锦
DIOR Loop 永接续笼
接龙(游戏),是指把不同体裁或类型的东西,以续的方式上下联系,并像长龙一样无限延伸。设计灵感来源于此,将接龙里“首尾相连”的游戏理念应用于设计之中,“笼”同“龙”,设计中将体现可持续概念的石笼网作为接龙元素,DIOR Garden作为一个接龙游戏的展示舞台,每一个参与者都是主角。
Solitaire (game) refers to the connection between different genres or types of things which goes up and down in a continuous way, and stretching endlessly like a long dragon. The design is inspired by this, the game concept of "end to end" in the solitaire is applied to the design. "cage" sounds like "dragon" in Chinese, the design will reflect the sustainable concept of the stone cage net as a solitaire dragon element. DIOR Garden, as a display stage for the solitaire dragon game, makes each participant be the protagonist.
小组成员:梁倩,余雨薇,马嫣遥
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作品Video集锦
Rose Growth
灵感来自于玫瑰花瓣和DIOR珠宝。我们提取了玫瑰花瓣的卷曲线条并将其作为花园家具设计的灵感。以玫瑰金铝板、穿孔铝板和玻璃为材。使用弯曲成型的加工方式。最终形成两种模块化家具,桌椅和种植模块,可以根据花园布局的曲线进行组合。为了更好地传播可持续性的概念,我们寻找了一些更具观赏性的食用植物类别,并希望通过服务设计促进DIOR员工或客户可以认养、照顾这些食用植物。
Inspired by rose petals and DIOR jewelry, We extracted the curly strips of rose petals and used them as inspiration for garden furniture design. Made of rose gold aluminium plate, perforated aluminum plate and glass. Processing using bending molding. The result is two modular pieces of furniture, tables and chairs and planting modules, which can be combined according to the curves of the garden layout. To disseminate the concept of sustainability better, we looked for more ornamental categories of edible plants , hoping it can help facilitate the adoption and care of these edible plants by DIOR employees or customers.
小组成员:田静雯,刘梵
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Poetry Garden 花园诗歌之旅
作品“Poetic Garden Tour”是在DIOR花园里伴随着诗的韵律和玫瑰生物节律的声音投影旅途。当人们随着诗歌的韵律漫步在花园里,感应器感受到每一个步伐的韵律,在地上产生相应的玫瑰节律的图案,营造出在DIOR花园里浪漫诗意的花园探索体验
In our design, we create a garden tour combined with the projections and sound in the environment. As people walk in the garden step by step, the interactive projection will detect the footstep of visitors by the touch sensor and generate biochronometry patterns of roses response to the rhythm of poem, creating the romantic and poetic exploration experience in DIOR garden.
小组成员:张晴钰,古珂懿
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作品Video集锦
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Final Presentation
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导师寄语 From the Tutors
可持续设计思维,是当下最链接未来的设计能力,因为每个设计者都应当担负起保护“未来”的责任。
在这个与DIOR合作的花园设计中,非常高兴看到同学们对可持续设计不同维度的理解和探索,从材料的绿色化和循环使用到节约能源的思考;从产品生命周期到将人们拉近自然的服务系统;从轻介入的文化交互到非遗手工艺的传承运用。感谢他们从不同角度为呈现出年轻力量的可持续设计思考,同学们未来可期。
—— 吴端
Luxury is one of the most sustainable product in the modern world, they are build to last. However pursuing prosperity and experiment is limitless along the path, each single effort counts for prolong the cycle of product, material and even their wastes. “Re-“ design project is a reflection of greener solution from theory to practice, from the young talents of D&I, focus in 2 topics – Delivery Packaging and DIOR Garden. It is also a milestone for both LVMH and TONGJI U to join effort together, foreseen the up-to date luxury industrial is building the dream to last with radical innovation and responsibility!
——莫娇
社会和环境挑战日益明显,亟须采取行动解决这些挑战;引领生活方式的时尚品牌,在产业链采取行动的同时,可以发挥其影响力和行动力,邀请更多消费者一起加入,探索具体多样的可持续生活形式,洞察需求和供给之间尚存的问题和潜在的机遇,从而更好的支持变革。
本次合作的课题是为时尚品牌快闪活动创作可持续主题的展览项目。2019级环境设计专业的同学,从“人的视角”出发,在理解生活方式如何影响周围世界的基础上,创作了结合自然、文化、艺术和科技的展览叙事装置,倡导负责任的消费和可持续的生活,邀请观众共同探讨让每个人的生活更好更轻松的方法。他们的设计富有想象力的同时,兼顾了参与性和可实施性,向我们展现了青年设计师在环境治理、气候减缓和适应中所能发挥的积极作用。
——杨皓
感谢:
孙捷、杨皓、莫娇、吴端、赵世笺、Chris Kuhna、Francesca、Aldo Cibic、Saverio Silli等教师的悉心指导,及品牌合作方的大力支持!
欢迎大家十月份线下观展!
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