杭州黄龙饭店明星总厨Leslie的520牛排 ⑱神婆私藏中古食谱
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一块牛排搞定节日
杭州黄龙饭店餐饮部西餐行政总厨阮斌雄Leslie，做了26年的高级餐饮。法式、意大利式、东南亚式样样精通，中西方传统面食是他的灶头玩具。融合菜里他尤其擅长跨界，一样的菜，他能变出不一样的魔术师味觉！
我最近刚好翻阅两本书，要向艺术家，又是美食家的眉毛老师，以及Leslie请教。
一本是清代王士雄的《随息居饮食谱》，还有一本是专讲炭火料理的《STOKED》，来自名厨Al Brown，里面有一道肉眼牛排用番茄调节酸度，我学着做过。
但吃过Leslie的那道炭烤牛肉配红酒樱桃汁，对江浙人来说，更绝妙！这是怎么做到的呢？
听完，看完，我决定依样画葫芦试一试。不过呢，罗马不是一天建成的，如果真的要吃到正宗的，我估计还是得去黄龙。况且，我520会很忙呀，嘿嘿，主要忙着帮人订饭呢！
艺术家 | 美食家 眉毛
Cantina在哪儿呢？顺着亚洲第一个无支撑旋转楼梯下去，就是各种明星名流曾开过私人派对、庆功宴、投融资沙龙的私人酒窖了。
我选了一支名庄酒，配这道肉眼。
有人要仪式，有人要私密，有人要欢聚，有人要清闲...
我特地为大家整理出两本食谱内容，一本讲的是我们传统农耕文明的牛肉文化，一本讲的是来自大洋洲的牛肉甜辣饕餮（不过Leslie的这个方子对我个人口味来说，更受用）。
《隨息居飲食譜》
章杏雲云：牛為稼穑之資，天子無故不忍宰，祭祀非天神不敢歆，豈可妄殺乎？及觀《莊子》犧牛、耕牛之喻，知古人宰殺者惟犧牛，而耕牛必不殺也。袁存齋云：天生萬物，大概以有用于人為貴，律文宰牛馬有禁，宰羊豕無禁，所以然者，羊豕無用于人，而牛馬有用于人也。按此二說，皆通儒之論。余家世不食牛，奉祖訓而守禮法，非有惑于福利之說也，故不譜其性味。中其毒者，杏仁、蘆根汁、稻桿煎濃汁，人乳并可解之。
汪謝城曰：牛肉亦有可食者，其祭祀之胙乎，每見不食牛者，以此胙賜與儓，不免褻越。余有一法，以此牛供祭之後，用合霞天膠、黄明膠諸藥，不褻神，餘又治民病，最為兩得。
《STOCKED》原文：
CHARGRILLED RIB-EYE WITH KUMARA, CUMIN & RED CABBAGE HASH & SMOKED TOMATO CHUTNEY
炭烤肋眼配红薯、孜然、红甘蓝杂烩和烟熏番茄酸辣酱
Serves 6（6人份）
A Kiwi favourite, the rib-eye steak ticks a lot of boxes for steak eaters. It's usually juicy from good marbling and a decent ball of fat in the centre. Hence, it makes a great steak even for those heathens who enjoy their steak well done, as there is still some moisture after cooking. The smoked tomato chutney is a real winner and can be served with a manner of grilled meat and vegetables. The hash is like an exotic bubble and squeak.
作为新西兰人的最爱，肋眼牛排为牛排爱好者提供了很多选择。美好的大理石纹路和中心的脂肪粒使它很多汁。因此，即使对于那些喜欢牛排全熟的异类来说，它也是很好的牛排，因为烹饪后仍然有一些水分。烟熏番茄酸辣酱是真正的赢家，可以配烤肉和蔬菜。配菜杂烩提供一个奇异的泡沫和吱吱声。
Step 1: Smoked Tomato Chutney
第一步：烟熏番茄酸辣酱
2 tablespoons sea salt
4 tablespoons brown sugar
500g firm, ripe tomatoes, halved horizontally
1/4 cup cooking oil
2 cups finely diced onion
2 tablespoons finely diced ginger
1 tablespoon cumin seeds, toasted in a dry pan and ground
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
2 star anise
1/2 cinnamon stick
400g can whole peeled tomatoes, blitzed in a blender
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1/3 cup brown sugar
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon Tabasco Chipotle Pepper Sauce (or regular is fine)
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2汤匙海盐
4汤匙红糖
500克硬且熟的番茄，水平对半切开
1/4杯食用油
2杯细切洋葱丁
2汤匙细切姜丁
1汤匙孜然籽，在干锅中烘烤后磨碎
1/2茶匙丁香碎
2粒八角茴香
1/2肉桂棒
400克整罐去皮西红柿，用搅拌机搅打
2汤匙番茄酱
1/3杯红糖
2汤匙红酒醋
1/2茶匙Tabasco辣椒仔烟熏风味辣椒酱（或普通的也可以）
海盐和新鲜研磨的黑胡椒
In a bowl, combine the salt and brown sugar, then sprinkle evenly over the tomato halves.
在一个碗里，将盐和红糖混合，然后均匀地撒在切半的番茄上。
Place the tomatoes on a smoker rack. Light the smoker with a small amount of chips in the bottom. Once the smoke is under way, place in the tray, cover and smoke for 15 minutes or so. Carefully take the tomatoes from the rack and gently remove the skins. Place the flesh, seeds and juice in a bowl. Reserve.
把番茄放在烟熏架上。在底部用少量碎屑点燃烟熏。一旦开始冒烟，就将其放入托盘中，盖上盖子并烟熏15分钟左右。小心地把番茄从架子上拿下来，轻轻地把皮剥掉。把番茄果肉、籽和汁放在碗里。备用。
Place a medium-sized saucepan on medium-low heat. Add the cooking oil, onion and ginger. Fry gently for 10 minutes, then add the spices. Fry for another 5 minutes, stirring to prevent sticking, then add the remaining ingredients except the salt and pepper.
把一个中等大小的深平底锅放在中低火上。加入食用油、洋葱和姜。微微煎10分钟，然后加入香料。再煎5分钟，搅拌以防粘锅，然后加入除盐和胡椒以外的其余配料。
Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until reduced, thick and rich (about 1 hour). Remove the cinnamon stick and star anise, then taste, season and refrigerate until required.
煮沸后把温度降低。小火煨，偶尔搅拌，直到浓缩变稠（约1小时）。取出肉桂棒和八角茴香，尝味，调味并冷藏直至需要。
Step 2: Kumara, Cumin and Red Cabbage Hash
第二步：红薯、孜然、红甘蓝杂烩
1kg golden kumara, peeled and cut into 1cm dice
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon finely chopped ginger
3/4 cup finely diced onion
3/4 cup finely diced celery
3/4 cup finely diced green capsicum
1 tablespoon cumin seeds, toasted in a dry pan and ground
2 handfuls thinly sliced red cabbage
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1公斤黄金红薯，去皮切成1厘米的小丁
1/4杯特级初榨橄榄油
1汤匙细切的生姜
3/4杯细切的洋葱丁
3/4杯细切的芹菜丁
3/4杯细切的青椒丁
1汤匙孜然籽，在干锅中烘烤后磨碎
2把切细条的红甘蓝
海盐和新鲜研磨的黑胡椒
Place the kumara in a medium-sized saucepan, cover with cold salted water and bring to the boil. Check after 5 minutes. Once soft, but not completely falling apart, remove from the heat, strain and cool on a tray.
将红薯放入一个中等大小的深平底锅中，用冷盐水没过，煮沸。5分钟后查看。一旦变软，但还没有完全散开，就从火源移开，过滤后放在盘上冷却。
In a large sauté pan or saucepan, place the olive oil, ginger, onion, celery and capsicum. Place on medium-low heat and sweat for 30 minutes. Stir in the cumin then add the red cabbage. Turn up the heat and stir for 5 minutes or so until the cabbage has wilted but still has plenty of crunch.
在一个大炒锅或深平底锅中放入橄榄油、姜、洋葱、芹菜和辣椒。在中低温上焖30分钟。拌入孜然，再加入红甘蓝。把火开大，搅拌5分钟左右，直到甘蓝菜变软，但仍然有足够的脆度。
Remove from the heat, place in a bowl with the kumara and mix with clean hands. Taste and season with sea salt and black pepper. Refrigerate until required.
从火源移开，和红薯一起放在碗里，用干净的手将其混合。尝味后用海盐和黑胡椒调味。冷藏直至需要。
Step 3: To Cook and Serve
第三步：烹饪和上菜
6 rib-eye steaks
oil for frying
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
6块肋眼牛排
煎炸用油
海盐和新鲜研磨的黑胡椒
Heat the chargrill or flat-top to good and hot. Brush the steaks with oil and season with sea salt and black pepper. Place on the grill and cook to your liking, with plenty of charring. Remove the steaks when cooked and rest for at least 5 minutes.
把烤肉架或平底烤板加热到适度。牛排刷上油，用海盐和黑胡椒调味。放在烤架上，用大量炭化烤到你喜好的熟度。牛排烹后取出，静置至少5分钟。
Heat your flat-top to medium heat. Lightly brush with oil. Spread the hash out to about 2cm thick. Don't touch for at least 5 minutes, as you want to create a great crunchy crust. Turn and repeat on the other side. Once hot through it's ready to serve. To plate up: steak, hash, smoked tomato relish. Done!
把平底烤板加热到中等温度。稍稍刷点油。把杂烩摊到大约2厘米厚。不要触碰至少5分钟，因为想要做出非常脆的表面。翻面，另一面也如此重复。一旦热透就可以。装盘：牛排，杂烩，佐烟熏番茄。完成！
那下面就跟婆婆一起，制作这道炭烤牛肉配红酒樱桃汁吧。
到杭州黄龙饭店Cantina分享美好的时光，不光是520，不管是哪一天，让火苗、香气、温暖的记忆充盈我们的生活。人和事物之间的美好爱情才是最稳定，最甜蜜的。
有伴的，没伴的，都要好好吃饭喔，祝大家幸福！
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——莎士比亚
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